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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 2:44 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
Need some ideas. CV shop near me couldnt do it, sledge wouldn't do it. Yanking like crazy won't do it. Anyone got a trick I can try?

Tried this tool and it bent it.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:19 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
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Get a piece of schedule 40 1.5" pipe, some 1/8" flat bar, and weld it together to make a triangular section. You can make the whole piece 6"-8" long, then you slide it over the axle, finally wack the shit out of the outter cv cup. It will need to be hit with brute force, almost as if you are trying to break it. If the cv joint has been run dry or left out to the elements, you may want to soak the joint in pb blaster for a couple of weeks to try and break the rust.

The pic is just to provide a visual, I couldn't find the one I made some time back.


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 19, 2018 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2013 8:59 am
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Brittabrat wrote:
Need some ideas. CV shop near me couldnt do it, sledge wouldn't do it. Yanking like crazy won't do it. Anyone got a trick I can try?

Tried this tool and it bent it.



May I ask if the axle is trash or are you upgrading to long travel?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:07 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
Pilot bird wrote:
Brittabrat wrote:
Need some ideas. CV shop near me couldnt do it, sledge wouldn't do it. Yanking like crazy won't do it. Anyone got a trick I can try?

Tried this tool and it bent it.



May I ask if the axle is trash or are you upgrading to long travel?



Long travel. We put it in the trailers triangle for the side support and it busted the damn weld off. Left some dents in the CV so we didn't want to attempt again. Both sides are stubborn


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:10 am 
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Pilot bird wrote:
Get a piece of schedule 40 1.5" pipe, some 1/8" flat bar, and weld it together to make a triangular section. You can make the whole piece 6"-8" long, then you slide it over the axle, finally wack the shit out of the outter cv cup. It will need to be hit with brute force, almost as if you are trying to break it. If the cv joint has been run dry or left out to the elements, you may want to soak the joint in pb blaster for a couple of weeks to try and break the rust.

The pic is just to provide a visual, I couldn't find the one I made some time back.



No rust and after we cleaned the grease out it's actually very clean inside suprisingly. We will try making a holder like that to knock the freaking thing off. Even the guys at the CV shop we're surprised it stalled their puller


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
I have had this vision in my head about making up a hydraulic jack powered,Double CVJ spreader, spreading 2 plates,1 each around the cv's.
Had it for years...but never got into it...cept now! :-)
They can be held on to the cv's via a 2 part clamp.The main is welded semi circle plate with threaded ends to accept the top clamp like a crank mains cap.
This way ALL the tension/forces are into the Trany final drive shaft,and NOT against the alu cases,bearings etc.
When both vertical plates are holding the CVJ,they go down into a L shape that slides along a stout channel.
Inbetween these L shaped CVJ holders is the Hyd Jack spreading them apart and consequently forcing both CVJ's away from eachother.
The only force is axialy thru the trany final drive shaft
Neutralizing any adverserse forces onto the cases,bearings etc...Make sense?


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 2:17 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Here's a QUICK sketch...just a bit more refining detail needed.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:52 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
So we tried everything and a few shops. Haven't budged at all.

About to cut the axles and hope that I never have to go stock. I hate ruining good parts, but we tried a slide hammer with 30lb weight and it did nothing ugh


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Britt, Are you hitting the star?

If your pulling/hitting on the outer cup/spindle, all the force is being absorbed by the balls and the cup flexing.

Go straight to the star with a piece of tube and mount it SOLID.

Are you trying to save the star? If not, heat it Bright Effing red!

The problem with helping people on this site, is the delay time between visits. Members come on and ask a question, then don't check back for 2 months. I'm not saying that's you, its just difficult to work something out with the interrupted conversation.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 10:24 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
My boyfriend heated it with a torch at work and wailed on it like crazy he says. It doesn't even move inside the star one bit. We didn't want to bust the star in case they aren't made anymore, which I couldn't find an active part number so assumed so.

I always check in. Might be a day or 2 if we are out adventuring, but I am here lol


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 12:01 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
That sucks!

Wailing on sounds right.....as long as he was wailing in the right spot? :-) On the star?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
bugeye59 wrote:
Here's a QUICK sketch...just a bit more refining detail needed.



A log splitter could be modified to split wood and axles. Same concept


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 7:28 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
I don't understand the tool set up
The axle shaft is held in with a c clip


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:00 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
adnoh wrote:
I don't understand the tool set up
The axle shaft is held in with a c clip


Yeah I am missing something here too.
Worst case scenario, wouldn't you be able to torch the balls out and then it would fall apart -- No ??
Then you would be left with the axel and the inner race attached.
Are those lobro style joints and boots still available for the Pilot ??
If so I would be: -- one try -- two try -- torch
The transmission side would be more problematic.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:13 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
The tool clamps onto the groove in the axle and uses the axle nut to pull it forward and pop out of the clip.

So we beat on it more after a night in PB blaster and heating it hot, didn't budge, then we used the slide hammer and it didn't budge, so now we are going out to eat and letting them soak again.

We tried the tool on a Honda civic axle that's been outside and popped right off.... Ugh


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 8:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You might have a similar problem to what my brother had on his Dodge Hemi Ram front drive shafts.
The inner race was so badly corroded onto the spline that we were forced to torch it off. Fortunately we did not damage the splines. This takes torch skills. The outer race was so badly corroded onto the aluminum upright that when we tried to press it out it actually took some of the aluminum seat with it. The outer race and aluminum were fused :shock: .


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:26 pm 
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We diassembled one side last year and it was so easy. I dunno what's going on, but no corrosion or dirt got in.


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 10:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Wait? Is it a snap ring or spring clip?

You got the other side out right?


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PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 11:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
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It's a snap ring for sure. I got the tranny side out no problem. Only the CV sides have been pissing me the ((Bad Word)) off for weeks on end.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:23 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Hey guys pardon my ignorance here as I do not own a Pilot or have ever worked on one but I just looked in the manual and did some reading. A statement there jumped out at me.

It says "The outboard joint cannot be disassembled" :shock:

What did Honda do here ??
Who's got experience with this ??
I wonder if they did something funky like swag it, crimp it ??


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:32 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Also on page 13-19 it says: "If the outboard bearing seems worn or damaged, the drive shaft must be replaced" :shock: :shock:


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 12:36 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Judging by those two pages in the manual I bet the homo's at Honda did something funky.
Now I really wana get my hands on that to have a close look.
I bet they snap ringed the joint on the shaft or even peened it on and then crimped the outer casing. Can't prove that of coarse but those statements in the manual jump out at me.

Edit: Can you post some close up good quality pics for me ?? I know how I would do it if I was making that joint non repairable. I would slide the entire shaft with Lobro through a cup and then weld on a piloted splined shaft on one end. Done. No more take apart.

Edit again (10:32pm west coast time): viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1666


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 1:57 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Yeah, that pic clearly shows a SNAP ring, not the same as a spring clip. You wont get that off by hammering on it.

I apologize Brit, I thought we were talking about the standard spring clip that holds VW type CVs together.

I was trying to help because it seemed like no one here (who KNOW how to do this) seemed to be speaking up.

When I said "other side" , I meant the outer CV on the other side of the pilot.(other axle)


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:07 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
Has to be a way. How else would you replace a broken axle or go to long travel? If anything I'll chop it and carefully drill it out.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 25, 2018 2:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Brittabrat wrote:
Has to be a way. How else would you replace a broken axle or go to long travel? If anything I'll chop it and carefully drill it out.


I agree.
The only thing that can't be made or repaired is something that has been born.
If it is man made it can be copied or repaired.

You ask: "How else would you replace a broken axle" ---- well that's why they tell you to buy a new one from Honda. Some of these companies make things so that you have to buy new stuff. It's called making money. My square head family in Germany (VW) does this real well.

Like I said above, they may have shoved everything in from the end and then put in a piloted splined shaft piece and welded it. Not sure as I have never had my hands on one of these to look at it.


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