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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:46 am
Posts: 140
I recently acquired a 670 ho for a very reasonable price cause the guy totalled his sled. Problem is... its pull start. I want to convert to electric start with pull start as a backup. Could I use the system for a 583 rave on this, or not? I've found starters, but the ring gear and mounting brackets seem elusive. Any tips on this is greatly appreciated. Please remember... I am a rookie here...lol


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 03, 2010 12:02 am
Posts: 2147
Location: St. John, Washington
583 elec start setup will work. clutch from 583 will not. 583 has smaller crankshaft output. tap the existing holes on your HO clutch and install ring gear. USE LOCTITE!!! don't ask me how I know...... can't help finding parts. they are harder to find. check eBay and the skidoo sites. lots of guys remove them if their sleds had them. they don't like the added weight.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 31, 2014 10:13 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:56 pm
Posts: 224
Location: Ontario Canada
I'm pushing my memory to go back a few years, but when I did mine it was a royal pita. After 3 tries at getting the parts guy to supply me with the right parts, the only success was the ring gear which was tagged and paint markered "670 only", I took my Engine to his shop, which has a huge supply of salvaged parts. It took quite a while to find a starter that had the solenoid clocked to the right location to clear the water neck and engage the ring gear, and I only got close with the brackets. I had to cut and weld them to get it right. He had parts marked 670, but they didn't fit. He did not understand why it was so odd. He told me that the only 670 that came with electric start was in the Summit and that maybe the water neck on the Summit was different. But I did get it done and had no trouble with it.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 8:02 am 
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My 670 came from a summit x. 1999 model. It didn't have electric start option of course. It only had 2100 on the odometer, so I figured 800 was a good deal for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and anything else I wanted off the sled. But the ol lady won't be able to pull it, so I have to figure something out. I'm staying with the stock clutch, so will I need to have holes drilled and tapped for a ring gear? The 583 ring gear will work on the 670? Do I have to make a new mounting bracket for the starter and solenoid to mount them?

DaveM- what sea doo carbs did you use exactly to angle them for a better fit? What model and year if you remember...? Thank you.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 11:36 am 
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Location: St. John, Washington
solo0879 wrote:
My 670 came from a summit x. 1999 model. It didn't have electric start option of course. It only had 2100 on the odometer, so I figured 800 was a good deal for the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) ((Internal Combustion Engine?)) and anything else I wanted off the sled. But the ol lady won't be able to pull it, so I have to figure something out. I'm staying with the stock clutch, so will I need to have holes drilled and tapped for a ring gear? The 583 ring gear will work on the 670? Do I have to make a new mounting bracket for the starter and solenoid to mount them?

DaveM- what sea doo carbs did you use exactly to angle them for a better fit? What model and year if you remember...? Thank you.


on my 670ho conversion for my pilot, I used a ringgear off a 583 along with the starter and brackets. the 670 had the holes already in the clutch, I just had to tap them.

on mine, I used carbs from a 720/717 seadoo. mid to late 90s I believe


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:27 pm 
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Location: Ontario Canada
No Sea Doo carbs here. However I do believe it is a better option for space.
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 12:55 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:56 pm
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Location: Ontario Canada
Here is a picture of Nitrosport's Engine. Look at the difference in diameter of the ring gear compared to mine. I used the ring gear from the first go round of parts that was tagged and marked 670 only so I/we figured it was right. Maybe we found the root of the trouble I had. Wrong, smaller diameter ring gear, the correct starter and brackets wouldn't work.
More info for the pool.

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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 2:58 pm 
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Nitrosport_5- so a 583 ring gear, starter, and brackets are a direct bolt on to the fixed sheave if you tap the preexisting holes right?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 3:00 pm 
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DaveM- you don't think it was the right size setup for your 670?


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 4:23 pm 
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Location: St. John, Washington
solo0879 wrote:
Nitrosport_5- so a 583 ring gear, starter, and brackets are a direct bolt on to the fixed sheave if you tap the preexisting holes right?


not going to tell you 100% yes. but the one I had was claimed to be from a 583. the clutch with the kit did not fit my crankshaft.


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PostPosted: Sun Feb 02, 2014 7:41 pm 
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Location: Ontario Canada
solo0879 wrote:
DaveM- you don't think it was the right size setup for your 670?


Well something wasn't right with my parts. Wrong ring gear would explain it.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 05, 2014 3:42 pm 
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I talked to Emanuel at farr of road, and he said he could get me the correct gear for$175, and correct motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) with brackets for $175 new...what's your take on this?


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:14 pm 
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DaveM- noticed your running the stock Oddy secondary clutch and belt in your pics. How did you do that while running the 670 primary clutch? I have both clutches with the stock 670 belt, and that things like 1 1/4" wide! Stock Oddy belts are 7/8".


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:38 pm 
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Location: Ontario Canada
The belt I ran was 1 1/8". The driven was modified to accept a bit wider than stock belt. The cam was removed from the drive flange and I machined the back face of it down to gain some width. I think I still have that secondary around here somewhere. I'll see if I can get a picture of the mod.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 10:58 pm 
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Doesn't the 670 secondary fit the input shaft on the fl350 tranny? They both look like they're 1" bore with 1/4" keyway.


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:33 pm 
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Location: Ontario Canada
IIRC, the Ody shaft is 7/8".


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PostPosted: Sun Mar 02, 2014 11:47 pm 
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IIRC?


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 9:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
solo0879 wrote:
IIRC?


IIRC = "If I Remember Correctly"


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:17 am 
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Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago
solo0879 wrote:
IIRC?


A lot of society has lost or is losing the ability to talk, humans has the greatest power of communication on the planet its what makes us top of the food chain, separates us from the beast, humans are regressing most carry a $300 to $500 cell phone yet never talk on the stupid thing they have regressed to something similar to morse code tapping on the thing like a bunch of jungle bunnies beating on a hollow log.

I figure another 50 years humans will be communicating with grunts and moans like we did in the early days of evolution, with the lack of attention to detail most people have today and all the screw-ups from poor communication we might as well be grunting and beating our chest today after all our advancements we still look like a bunch of morons that cant communicate :-)


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PostPosted: Mon Mar 03, 2014 10:37 am 
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Lmfao


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 04, 2014 12:05 am 
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Location: Ontario Canada
I don't remember how much I took off, but here is the measurement of the cam thickness after machining. Somebody measure a stock one and see what the difference is.
Image

I'm pretty sure the belt I ran was 1 1/8" wide, with the stock TRA primary.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:03 pm 
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Could you post a close up pic of your machining job on that cam? It'll let me see what you did a lil better. Thanks.


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 5:57 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 21, 2009 4:56 pm
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Location: Ontario Canada
Sorry but I'd have to disassemble the whole thing to show the machined face. it's all red Loctite'd back together. If you take yours apart to look, it is pretty straight forward. Just a straight cut, But I don't remember how much I took off.
It's the backside of #2, the driven pulley cam, that is machined down. #2 and #3 have to be separated. #3 is steel, #2 is aluminum. Use some heat on the bolts.
Image


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 8:30 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 01, 2013 1:46 am
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OK. That's good info. I was thinking about matching the groove that the slippers slide into to make it deeper and add a spacer between the sheaves. I believe the stock 670 belt is 1 3/8 wide, so I'm trying to keep that width somehow. Is that even possible?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:15 pm 
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Location: Ontario Canada
I doubt it.

Where are you located?


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