Once I get my motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) back together it looks like from reading post I need to do a leak down test,still not sure how to do it but once I get to that point I'm sure someone will help me out.My question is,I saw this at Harbor freight tools and was wondering if this would work for the test

here is a easy way to make one...

think u left something out,lol

I have Blond hair...
http://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... own+tester

well now I have a better idea how to hook it up,but he said it cost about 40 bucks to make,if that one from HF would work,its cheaper and i don't have to make it
heres a better look at it
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/d ... mber=94190

I think you will have to still buy the freeze plug for the exhaust. and something to plug the carb boot...
The box will be handy to keep it organized!!!

I have the one on the right(red boxed one) and never used it. It is for 4 stroke car engines. 2 stroke engines you want to keep the pressure less than 10 lbs or run the risk of blowing out a seal.

I use a 15lb guage in my tester, just easier to read slow leaks. I put the guage on the crankcase to fuel pump line. I made an exhaust block off plate from scape metal and rubber gasket. You have to remove the header then install the plate with the 3 factory bolts. I put a air fill tip in a PVC pipe stopper. It works like a champ and costs less than $15 to make. Guage is the most expensive at $10. Hope that helps or at least gives you some ideas to try.

Gary

Whatever you do, don't be a dummy like me and spend $70.00 greens on leakdown tester. I won't mention the name of the company I got it from but I had to modify it just to get the stupid thing to work and the gauge wasn't accurate..

I don't no what company your talking about,guy on ebay sells one for 69.95,is that who your talking about? Heck,I'll say it,chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports

yes that is the guy!!! LOL a f t e r s h o c k motorsspurt's is a shady charactor... It's sad you got took cruz1 and I bet $69.95 dollars he wouldn't stand behind his crap...

LOL. It didn't take long for you guys to figure it out.. The exhaust plug was too big to fit in the spigot so I had to shave off about 50% of the rubber so it would work. Although the plug didn't fit and the gauge is not accurate, the thing still does the job but absolutely not worth the $70 smackers...

does the cylinder need to be on to do a test?

Yes, ideally you want the whole Engine assembled as its going to be run, you cap off the exhaust and the intake side preferably by just removing the carb and inserting a plug that way your checking the intake manifold too, you also want to remove the pulse tube that goes to the fuel pump and plug.

I use the pulse line to hook up my home made tester pics seen here http://pilotodyssey.com/rebuild1.htm
Think I spent about 10 bux on mine.

You want to air it up to about 10 psi see how long it holds.

I air my portable air tank up to 10 psi so I CANT over pressurize my Engine by accident and blow out the seals.

thanks,it made sense to me that it would be but i saw a pic in another thread of a leak down tester installed on Engine and cylinder was off so it got me wondering

okay,bought parts for tester but not sure what that fitting is where arrow is,do you have better pic with cap off?
thanks

that's just a valve stem so you can add air found them in the section where they keep air compressor stuff.

that's what I thought but i couldnt find any like that,guess i'll try another place

Try tractor supply!!!

I can not find one in person or online,where did you get yours?

well I found a valve stem at tractor supply but its 1/8 od,not 1/4 and i cant find any adapters,so i went back to the drawing board,harbor freight had their fuel injection tester on sale for 8.99,so with parts from it i made mine,just going to hook up directly to air compressor hose with only 10 lbs of air in compressor tank.Going to just use 2 flat pieces of aluminum to block of ports.Do you think this will work or will the air slowly leak back up hose from Engine into compressor tank?

I got everything for my kit at Farm & Fleet

never heard of it,do you think my setup will work?
also Hoser check your pm's
thanks

Your setup should work but the key thing to worry about is controlling the air pressure, with the valve stem fitting I take my air chuck and just pop it on and off fast to get it to 10 psi, their is only 10-15 psi in my air tank when do this so I cant over pressurize the Engine and blow the seals

You also need to disconnect from the air source so the only pressure your reading is whats inside the Engine, maybe a ball valve between the air tank and your kit?

well there a ball valves on compressor hooked to hose and hose is hooked directly to my setup,so i can have about 10 psi in compressor tank,open ball valve,fill Engine with air,then shut off ball valve,sounds like we have a winner!