Hey guys, i'm referring to the compressed action of the shock acting as the upper limit / bump stop

Basically, will the FL350 suspension allow these shocks bottom out on themselves, if so, will they stand up to that

The works shocks have rubber bump stops

I will say these shock have a long body for a 4" travel shock, but thought I would throw it out there

120152660051 eBay item #. How many of us have already found these?
Shubey

Yeah Shubey, that's were I got the info from that I put in the first part of this thread.

Rand

I just sent Fox an email asking if the 980-02-013 and the 980-99-013A shocks have a positive stop and what their recommendations for an Ody shock would be. Hopefully they will respond with some positive news.

Rand

i just talked to a guy in the offroad dept at fox and from what he said what looks like a rubber o ring at the bottom of the shock is a sort of bump stop for the shock although he said typical this shock is used with a separate bump stop also. With that said im not too worried about the stop but rather the shock comes standard with 50/70 valving and he believed that the shock being rated for 400 lbs was prob valved for a 1600lb car, so i believe the valving would need to b changed when ordering. Also found out the specs at their website r for eye to eye center, which makes the shock like 1/4 inch long which is no big deal. 1 other thing he mentioned if i understood him correctly was that the shock hits full extension at 200psi so if u were worried about the camber issue im thinking by running a little less psi would make up for the 1/4". As for the valving i believe i saw somewhere on site som talk of fox valving for a pilot rear that i would think would mayb b close to what u would want for the 350. will have to do some searching. Any 1 that im sure has more knowledge on shocks that me ur input would b very helpful

I hate to be a pain in the ass nay sayer but that extra 1/4" is a huge deal. I have spent quite some time screwing around in the garage to find the holy grail of cheap workable shocks for the rear of an Ody and the closest to length I have come to find is 15.5" eye to eye. At 15.5", the U joints will bind with the rear axle set at a zero camber setting.

If these shocks are 15.53 inch eye to eye like the web site states, they will not work without setting the rear end to have an extreme positive camber.

The maximum you can go with the rear Ody shock is approximately 15.35" before the universal joints bind with the rear axle set at zero camber. I have a pair of shocks that measure in at 15.5 in my garage and I have to put a lot of negative camber in the rear wheel to get them so they don't bind the universal joints.

I would also not trust the shock not to completely extend to its full length by running at a lower pressure. If you ride anything like I do then the back of the Ody spends a little time in the air which forces the suspension to extend to its fully unladen travel. If this happens and the U joints bind, they will break and you can kiss you new set of shock bye bye.

Rand

Can you put a shim or spacer on the shaft side of the piston to limit it's extended length to 15.5" or less?

This would require disassembly, re-fill, recharge, yes a pita, but should be do-able.

Probably but remember the magic number here is 15.25 center of eye to center of eye.

Rand

I am getting a set...don't mind being a gunnie pig.

Rand, do you know where exactly the binding takes place? I know in the knuckle area...inner or outer? What do you think about removing a light amount of material from the yoke right where the binding is happening? I know the more you remove the better chance of failure. IMHO the size of the knuckles are over kill. All of my failures have been due to ujoint cup/bearing failure save one and it was a spicer hollow u joint. I will be doing my own testing on the binding locations.

I have ground material from the steering stops on the spindle to give sharper turning in the past with great results.

Just exploring options to make it work.
Gary

Install the shocks and try them before you worry anything about valving.

Here is some info I have complied on the FOX airs over the years http://www.pilotodyssey.com/fox-home.htm READ READ READ

Another link viewtopic.php?t=3229

Read all this too real good info http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... index.html

When I bought my FOX Air shox I bought them right from FOX they were 200 bux each came with a valving guarantee the valving sucked had to change the valving 2 times to get them close, they gave me to options send them back or they could send me valve stacks and I could change them myself since I have all the tools to service these shocks I had them send me valve stacks I did the install (kept all the old shims) , that's why it took two times I mean that's why I have all the spare valve shims I need to tune my shocks in a infinite way Thanks FOX I probably have 200.00 in valve shims if I had to go buy..

I've got a FL350 with the shocks off up on jacks in my warehouse

I'll give you the measurements, and pictures of the binding here in a second

Gary,

The binding take place on the outer yoke. When the axle rotates, the outer part of the axle (just inboard of the bearing carrier) hits on the center yoke section of the axle. I have thought about taking a Dremel tool and relieving the center part of the axle just as you suggested. I agree that the yokes are probably overkill in this area of the axle and can have a little shaved off of the to accommodate the binding issue without making the axle weak in this area . I thought about doing this with a pair of super top secret El cheapo shocks that I was conducting an experiment with. The cost of the shocks was under 100 bucks brand new!

Rand

Okay, here we go...

At full droop the u-joints bind at about 15.875" center to center on the shocks

I can't verify my camber at this point though, so you could take some out of the above numbers to be safe

At full stuff (where the upper links and the lower shaft/hub limit the travel) I've got a 10.5 center to center

But the shocks only have 4" of travel, so that number would never be seen

The area's where the joints bind are on the lower inner at the top of the joint cycle

If you were to big material out, it would need to be from the inside of the inner joint, you wouldn't want to lessen the material around the bearing cups

Now this is bleeding over into my little secret project and why I was poking around about...

#1 the shocks limit the upper travel
#2 the inner is what is limiting the droop travel

Damnit, here goes my secret

I was thinking about making an inner with a deeper u that would allow longer travel

As it stands, the current shock maximum allowable travel is about 5.25" (at least according to my quick CAD work) - Edited for correct verbiage

That would give around a 7.25" wheel travel

Using a 10.5" stuff and a 15.25" droop

That means with longer up stroke (relocated upper mounts or shorter bodied shocks) and a revised inner dog bone, we could potentially get 8.5" of wheel travel

That would use a 10.5 stuff and a 16" droop

Anyone feeling the love here?

Ohh, and you'd need to but the inner shield back some

F me....

I just had a moment

The lower outer shafts would need to have material hogged out of the inside as well

Probably would need to do the uppers to completely be safe

Consol, your passenger side, lower u-joiny axle looks damaged!

How did you measure this? The only way I could get a good true measurement was to use the shock itself that I know had a measurement eye to eye of 15.5". At this shock length of 15.5", my outer U joints bind.

No offence but your measurement of 15.875" is probably incorrect unless as you said your camber is already set to a negative position.

Trust me..... I have my camber set to approximately zero and the u joints bind with a shock that measures in at exactly 15.5".

Got a picture of you upper link? I am curious as to how far out the adjustment bolt is turned.

Thanks, Rand

Damaged where? I'm going to pull them and paint them so I'll be sure to closely inspect

I got that measurement by jacking up the rear without shocks and letting the down travel rest on the u-joints

Hey I could be off. This measurement is tape measure perfect at this point.

All my numbers were just for basic reference, I don't dispute the 15.25" safe number

Check the splined end close to the bearing carrier. The area where the U joint is pressed in looks a little egg shaped.....or is it an optical illusion?

Try this for me....

Without the shock on can you grab the outer part of the hub and twist it up or down? I'm not talking swing movement of the whole axle assembly, I am curious how much the end swing arm will twist without a shock bolted to it. This might be why you are getting measurements of 15.875".

Rand

Okay, just grabbed a bite to eat, got on my hands and knees

It's 15.5" center to center with the u-joint cycled to it's tightest bind

Ever seen such a strange setup?

While you have it apart and are in design mode figure out a safety strap you can install so when the axle breaks the strap will prevent the arm from trying to move away from the Odyssey and bend the shock shaft.

When the axle breaks not if

keep in mind that you need a shock in there to get a measurement
the shock is a pivot point as is the axle

speed

I have them on mine if anyone is interested in pictures. Saved my ass when I broke a forward swing axle Heim joint and broke the shock. It allowed the axle to stay in place so I could at least move it and get it back into the truck.

Rand

Pics are good

These air shocks are 15 5/16 center to center. They will work no problem

So who's the lucky recipient?

Rand

Me! WooHoo lol

I have been going round n round trying to find a cheaper shock that is adjustable, somewhat at least. Also been kicking around longer travel rear suspension ideas for several years too. Hopefully do some prototype testing this year...I have 2 real usable ideas to try. Spring is just around the corner and I will be submitting my plans for full critique then.

I do think these fox 2.0s and maybe a little axle grinder work will be great for stock travel. I will post up lots of pictures as it goes on.

Gary