No one will probably ever make a "mold set" you can cheaply mass produce your own parts with at home. You'd have to make your own. Why teach a man to fish, when the people with the equipment and means can charge everyone else $100-$160 a pop? You prob won't get the durability and right hardness out of a home-brewed epoxy like you would with a pressure/heat molded rubber or urethane.

I still like the "bolt on boot" on an aluminum base. The wear part (boot) is only $15-$25 to replace, and there is no rhyme or reason why they'd ever stop producing them any time soon.

Just to clarify the epoxy I was suggesting would used to substitute the aluminum part that others are selling as billet manifolds you would still need the rubber Mikuni manifold, they would not be a home brew factory replica.

When it comes time I need one I will make my own out of aluminum I was thinking more for others having a alternative.

Ah, I see.

With a mill and an angle vice, this would be a piece of cake especially out of aluminum.

I thought so too and with a little creativity it could be done on a lathe also, been trying to nudge Speedchaser to make these but I think he is too busy. that's why I thought (at first) print them out of the plastic but it sounds like they would be too weak so then thought maybe something you can pour like an epoxy I assume by today someone has a pourable epoxy that is strong enough to make the base of the manifold.

I am just tossing ideas out because I figure one of our members would have an answer, personally I don't need one of these manifolds but I know many will need them in the future as the old manifolds get harder and more crack, IMO the current options on the market are not good enough for our group and are horribly over priced for what your really getting.

Wonder if the base of the manifold could be made from a fiberglass based product that has fibers in its resin? Aluminum would be my first choice we need to find a member that has a aluminum die cast connection and can have them cast, all my aluminum connections are long gone 35 years ago I could have done these myself.

I may try and give it a whirl and see what I can make on a CNC especially since I need a manifold. I am not much of a machinist but a buddy of mine is a retired machinist and has a old CNC mill and lathe at home. I showed him Hoser's manifold pics and he thought we could fart something out, especially out of aluminum, without too much problem. We also concluded that the backside would require some grinding or something to get things to match/line up.

This guy also makes molds and has parts cast (he makes model ride-on live steam engines as a hobby). I havent ever seen any cast aluminum parts from him (they are all cast iron or silicone bronze that he has done at 2 separate foundry's) but I will see if he can get stuff in aluminum.

Very cool see if your retired buddy want to make a little money on the side and keep himself off the couch at the same time

I assume your going to model off your stock manifold?
You will need to buy the Mikuni manifold before you start the design process, PLEASE maintain all the correct dimensions, the offset and the distance from the Engine.

You will want to maintain the exact dimensions mainly because when someone installs the new manifold you will want it to fit the stock air box and intake tube perfectly if its too short it will then be possible for the boot to come off the carb when riding and your Engine will suck dirt, if its not the same offset (left to right) then you can have issues with the carb float bowl rubbing on something and actually wearing a hole in the float bowl, I had this happen on a FL250.

I can send you a Pilot manifold if you need the dimensions.

I am not sure what pics you showed your buddy but here is a link to manifold pics that has been uploaded to PilotOdyssey.com in the past https://www.google.com/search?q=manifol ... 67&bih=657 you can click on a picture that interest you then another window will load with the pic then you can click the pic again and it will take you to the post where the picture was added then discussed

Also remember that the FL350 Ody manifold is offset to one side so the the carb will clear the transmission mounts and line up with the air box. Also note that the old 1978 Elsinore 250 manifold will bolt up but there is no offset and the rubber opening is designed for I believe a 38mm carb.

Just throwing info out there.

Rand

Yep, I've thought about that, too. Wondering if/how one of those bolt-on rubber flanges can be used in the offset position? If I remember right, its like a 11mm offset from center. I wouldn't "have" to keep the stock airbox, but would be nice. I love the airbox with a pre-filter.

The air box could probably shifted but the other issue is the carb would hit the transmission mount.

Rand

This outta' do it. There's nothing on the mag side of the intake that would prevent extending the intake plate over a tad to make room for the boot flange.

Here's the 3D printed version...(since this IS a 3D printing thread topic, lol)...

Now you're using your head for something other than a hat rack!

Rand

BREAKING NEWS...

http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=104&t=13980

This article hit my Facebook News Feed about a 3D-printed limb cast, and when combined with low ultrasonic pulses, can mend bones 40% faster. Cool stuff! Also won't have the weird "mass loss" you'd have with a plaster cast since your arm can still breathe and isn't so compressed. I remember wearing one for 4 weeks after I had my thumb re-attachment surgery (table saw, circa 2002) and my left arm was STRIKINGLY slimmer than my right.

http://interestingengineering.com/3d-printed-cast-can-heal-bones-40-faster-thanks-to-ultrasound/

that's cool I wonder how many thousands more it cost over the old style cast and treatment?