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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 9:44 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:53 pm
Posts: 124
When i first got it it ran for an hour or so before goin ded. After that had a bunch of problems with mechanics working on it that didnt know what they were doing. Never ran well after that. Was not running for bout 6 months until i decided to fiddle with it till it worked and a few weeks ago it ran around for about hour and it ran fine + about 5 more hours of test starts and fiddling with carbs.

So really it hasnt been run much.
compression is about 140 psi
Leak down test was fine, didnt leak at all once i fixed it:
The Engine was bored to 80mm so i had to replace rhe base gasket, i used a paper gasket instead of the metal stock one... mistake?
I did use goo on the pull start side of the case, i had to replace that gasket as it was leaking, which i used a paper gaket there. then the spot where the wiring for the Engine goes into the case, the little rubber seal that holds the wires was not making a perfect seal so i used the goo there. Goo nowhere else.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 12:29 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Squibward wrote:
So really it hasnt been run much.
compression is about 140 psi
Leak down test was fine, didnt leak at all once i fixed it:
The Engine was bored to 80mm so i had to replace rhe base gasket, i used a paper gasket instead of the metal stock one... mistake?
I did use goo on the pull start side of the case, i had to replace that gasket as it was leaking, which i used a paper gaket there. then the spot where the wiring for the Engine goes into the case, the little rubber seal that holds the wires was not making a perfect seal so i used the goo there. Goo nowhere else.


Lets take these one at a time because I read several issues now that you have posted more info.
1) compression is about 140psi -- that's good.
2) had to replace base gasket and used paper one -- that's very bad, see pic of mine below.
3) used goo on pull side case because of leak -- it is leaking there because you have not done the vent mod. Most of us do the vent mod because the counter balancer on the other side of the Engine is vented to the pull start side. Oil migrates from the counter balancer and fills your starter up with oil as well as contaminates the entire flywheel area and electrical. I will find this vent mod thing and post later or you can look for it using the search box. Just type vent mod.
4) Your Polaris pump is good -- 4.5 oz in ten seconds flow is CORRECT


Attachments:
File comment: Here is mine
20140907_220737.jpg
20140907_220737.jpg [ 50.27 KiB | Viewed 1010 times ]
File comment: If you see this then watch out, this is my brothers machine
20140909_124825.jpg
20140909_124825.jpg [ 41.92 KiB | Viewed 1010 times ]
File comment: My brothers machine
20140909_134847.jpg
20140909_134847.jpg [ 36.6 KiB | Viewed 1010 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 12:42 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here are some vent mod threads but some of the links and pics are missing.
We were hacked several years ago and a lot of information was lost :(
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod

Basically what you do is remove the dip stick and make an attachment for a hose. Randman found a screw in barb on feebay that had the correct thread pitch. You can also use a Ford radiator drain plug as those have the same thread as well.
Then you buy a bellows from Can-Am and attach it at the end of the hose.
Then you remove the pull start housing and run a screw with silicone on it into the vent hole coming from the counter balancer side. It is located in the top right corner on the pull start side of the Engine.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You do not have to do this mod but it saves future problems. You can run a little less oil like Honda recommended in a service bulletin. There is a picture of this bulletin in the thread I posted for you. There should be no oil coming out the pull start side of the Engine LOL.
Also note that there is a tube sticking out of the case near the starter on the pull start side of the Engine. This is the vent to atmosphere for that whole system.


Attachments:
File comment: Here is a good pic of it as I have a filter on the end of the hose
Photo0596.jpg
Photo0596.jpg [ 72.54 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
File comment: If you do actually decide to do the vent mod then here is a pic of the hole you must plug. It is located in the top right corner.
Photo0595.jpg
Photo0595.jpg [ 44.41 KiB | Viewed 1008 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 1:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
This is the bellows part number for the vent mod: differential bellows from a 2007 Can Am 500CC Outlander part number 705400352.

Please note that I am not a fan of using the ford drain plug for doing this vent mod thing.
It is difficult to hold the hose into it. Mine actually came out and I lost all the oil. Lucky I didn't blow up my machine. The fitting Randman found online is the answer. I actually modified my original dip stick. It's your choice and your machine.


Attachments:
2000 ford drain plug.jpg
2000 ford drain plug.jpg [ 28.15 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
20141008_174931.jpg
20141008_174931.jpg [ 28.68 KiB | Viewed 1004 times ]
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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 3:57 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:53 pm
Posts: 124
Ok welp ill order a new base gasket lol.

that's interesting though somehow i have never seen info on this mod before.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 4:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:53 pm
Posts: 124
Watch out for what exactly, fuel and oil leaking out the base under the exhaust?
Come to think of it i remember seeing alot of that... probably from before top end rebuild.


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PostPosted: Sat May 12, 2018 4:16 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Squibward wrote:
Watch out for what exactly, fuel and oil leaking out the base under the exhaust?
Come to think of it i remember seeing alot of that... probably from before top end rebuild.


If you look closely at that those two pictures you will see that there is an oily river running down from the cylinder base gasket. This is different than what you seem to be saying about an exhaust leak. Most guys have an exhaust leak so you need to distinguish between the two. The exhaust is real black in color and this is an oily river coming directly from the base gasket.
What I would do if I was you is wipe CLEAN around the base gasket area each time you go out for a ride. If you don't see that pic above your good. You can easily see this during a ride when you stop for a coffee. Just look each time you stop. It's no big deal to look, I do this all the time. As long as you don't see that your good. If you do see it then I would pull the Engine and switch to the metal base gasket.
You will most likely only blow this bass gasket when you are really flying.


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2018 11:28 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 01, 2017 11:39 am
Posts: 10
You must use a braded vacuum line because the pulse line will collapse when in operation thus loose pressure.

Second, your fuel cap on your tank may not be vented and you will loose pressure once a vacuum is pulled on the tank.

Factory pumps usually are pretty robust. The Mikuni replacement should last years.


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2018 1:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Weed wrote:
You must use a braded vacuum line because the pulse line will collapse when in operation thus loose pressure.

Second, your fuel cap on your tank may not be vented and you will loose pressure once a vacuum is pulled on the tank.

Factory pumps usually are pretty robust. The Mikuni replacement should last years.


OH CHRIST good catch. Didn't even think of that stuff until just now. I just assume it has been checked.


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2018 4:16 pm 
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I’ll Definitely do the vent mod, when I pulled the pulled the case apart to replace the gasket a considerable amount of oil/fuel poured out, if I understand correctly there should not have been any in that side of the case.

No actually I’m not using braided line, had no idea, I’m just using standard rubber line on everything, guessing that could attribute to a weak or inconsistent pull? :-(

Should the gas cap have a 100% seal? Just checked mine, it’s vented


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PostPosted: Sun May 13, 2018 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Squibward wrote:
I’ll Definitely do the vent mod, when I pulled the pulled the case apart to replace the gasket a considerable amount of oil/fuel poured out, if I understand correctly there should not have been any in that side of the case.

No actually I’m not using braided line, had no idea, I’m just using standard rubber line on everything, guessing that could attribute to a weak or inconsistent pull? :-(

Should the gas cap have a 100% seal? Just checked mine, it’s vented


1) Goddamn it. Yes you need braided line. Regular fuel line is good but not that surgical type tube.
2) Re-check all your pumps for flow when you get the correct line.
3) Yes your fuel cap must be vented. Below is a copy of a fuel cap from an oddy that hoser posted. Picture shows it well.


Attachments:
File comment: Here is a picture of the gas cap and the vent, blow air into the hole by blue arrow air comes out by the red arrow.
Oddy fuel cap venting.jpg
Oddy fuel cap venting.jpg [ 59.67 KiB | Viewed 963 times ]
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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 1:22 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
??? are you using the electric Starter to TEST fuel SUPPLY

or are you tugging the pull starter

wyeeoddy


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 8:36 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:53 pm
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Gas cap is vented fine... using electric starter. I borrowed some braided line off another mavhine and it seems to improve flow but maybe by .5 oz. so not much much but still an improvement.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 10:06 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7910
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Squibward wrote:
Gas cap is vented fine... using electric starter. I borrowed some braided line off another mavhine and it seems to improve flow but maybe by .5 oz. so not much much but still an improvement.


Then those old pumps are shot.

I am bias most of the time. If I know something works -- don't change or fkn "fix" it.
I know the Polaris pumps work well so I tell the world about them. I really dislike all the other styles.


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PostPosted: Mon May 14, 2018 6:39 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 10, 2018 5:53 pm
Posts: 124
I should have tried a Polaris pump sooner, it+braided line= 4.5-5 oz per sec. so weird all the pumps were bad, especially don’t understand how one worked then stopped, I don’t get that.


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