Yeah I noticed those clearance indents as well,obviously the Honda designers would'nt have put them there for nothing,but I could'nt see a problem.Also it would depend on the state of the J arms as well,meaning if they still had their original curve or flattened, which would alter the clearance dimension. Mine seem to be a bit on the flattened side,it' an ex racing one, plus ive ridden it pretty hard too.(as well as Bevan rollin it)which would make the clearance less.But I still could'nt see a problem with the corner as compressed as i could get it.

Ok thnaks I will fab up a set and send to MassOdy for testing, after a good thrashing he can look for red paint on the tie rods heh.

Go for it... I tink there is plenty of clearance My fat arse compressed the front pretty good and I see plenty of room for a hard landing...

Whats with the shocks the spring rate looks a little stiff?

How do they work?

I like what he did on the rear link Maybe he can post some reviews and how to's
But yea look a little stiff to me also... Here is a picture of mine on a jack... You guy's forgot to remind me that the rear wheel is wider, and I hit a tree at about 30mph... I am beating the rim back in shape and letting 25 lbs of air reseat the bead... all else seems ok...

Ok today I straighten out the tie rods in a press then cut the tubing and squared up the ends in the lathe, tomorrow I will weld them up.

i thought you had that done 3 days ago.lol

Yeah cool I'll give them a try out.

Those are steel toed blue fuzzy slippers.....


BTW: Whats up with the color in a couple pics? Is it my PC or does the last one look washed out?

Click on the pics then see this posthttp://pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?t=2466

Ok Mudbogger and MasOdy your hoserized tie rods are done and ready to ship tomorrow.

Very Nice.
thanks!

I give them a whirl.

I did the same thing to my tie rods and rear links several years ago and they are still perfectly straight, unlike the originals that seem to be bent one way or the other after every ride.

That is what is so great about this board, somebody comes up with great ideas like this one, I borrow them and eliminate all of my issues on my ride without a lot of work on my part.... gotta love it....

I had to post this, it made me kinda upset today.

I have been building some parts for my Pilot and Odyssey fetish, and in the process I make a few extra to sell on Ebay to make a few extra bucks. No harm in that right....... So I made some Kick ass aluminum tie rods for my self and a few good buddys. They look sweet so I put a pair on Ebay yesterday. Item #270097410727

This is when I get this responce from "mountainman91335"

"I'm very confused about the wording of your add for these tie rods. The whole purpose of the lower strength factory tie rod is so if you hit something the tie rods bends rather than the other components. Proper tie rods with the same description less the tensile strength are sold locally for $26.95. What you are selling is dangerous and could seriously injure somebody. "

Honda's tie rods for the 450 quad are made of some serious chromoly and are probably stronger than my .625 aluminum ones. So maybe he should complain to Honda?

I only stated the manufacturers strength of the Heim to prove they are not Wally World crap that will break your first trip out. I prefer strong, straight, and purdy equipment on my ride, and I think most other people do too.

So according to this guy.....Hoser is putting you all in danger.

I can't belive you are trying to kill all these loyal Pilot and Odyssey owners. Hoser, you should be ashamed of yourself.

I havent done any testing on the FL350 with the hoserized stock tie rods MasOdy is the crash test dummy on this one, who knows maybe the guy is right and it will break other parts, I know on the Pilot their is plenty of guys out their I have modified my tie rods for that have not had any problems or complaints, the idea is well tested, I bent a tie rod on my Pilot 11 years ago, hoserized them and put bent tie rods behind me.

So until someone tries this on the 350 we wont know, its a proven idea on the Pilot but its a different machine so am not sold or will not say it will work on anything but the Pilot until its well proven.

.625 OD and no clearance problems? I will have to measure the OD of the tubing I used on MasOdy's rods tomorrow.

The two are quite similar. The spindles are relatively the same, the ball joints are the same size. The lower steering stem is the same set up, even the wheel offset is the same. The only difference is the j-arm and a-arm.

I have done almost everything you could ever do to a 350....as far as destruction. Rolls, lawn darts, endos, you name it I've done it. And in my opinion it needs stronger tie rods.........and "bling".

send me some "weed" tie rods and I will test them for free...

I bent a tierod today in Kermit, I think you have the right idea... Make the connector strong as all get out, and if the rod gets caught on something let it bend. It can be straightened out easier than replacing tie rod ends...

Did you hit something with the rod or the tire hit something?

It's hard tpo say. I didn't notice till I got it back on the trailer. I let one of the big buggies tow me back. I had problems again with the tank. It didn't take long for my fuel to get used down to the bad spot... I got about 16 miles in the desert floor. I don't think I got 4 miles in the sand before it did it's thing... I should have just asked them to go and get my gas, I topped it off and ran it around the parking lot a lap or two... runs great untill it gets down to the petcock area...

new gas tank is on the way tomorrow it gets ordered...

Is their 2 tubes cant you just run around on reserve?

I tried that???? I think when it gets down to the same level as the petcock/shutoff valve is when it starts acting up...
I would really like to keep the stock tank, and run the round one into it as this would let me ride all day... But it might not be worth the rebuild if I loose another motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? ))...

First, Honda's 450r tie rods are not made from chromoly. They can make them a little thicker out of recycled tin cans and save a bundle of money, and so they do.

Second, the tie rod is a fuse point. You hit something big. The tie rod bends. You bang the rod semi straight with a rock and then ride out of the woods. With the big beef tie rods you stand a chance of finding the next weakest link and you walk out of the woods. The flexible tie rods are not there to prevent injury and to my knowledge they will not save anyone from breaking there neck.

That being said the tie rod as a fuse point theory goes back to about ’94. I have no idea what happened before then.

Hoser’s tie rods seam to work but they lack proper destructive testing. If some one would like to volunteer there vehicle and a set of tie rods I would be happy to find the appropriate size precipice and push the vehicle off. Barring that I could take the dimensions and crunch the numbers to see where it lies with respect to other ATV’s. I’ll try to do that this week.

Going from memory you already crunched the numbers of my lengthen modified rods for the +2" rods, I forget what thread we post the results in do you remember or remember any key words that might turn it up in the search?