That key is there to align the flywheel not to hold it in place.

You need to make sure the nut is torqued down very well with an impact wrench, you should not be able to pull it off by hand when the nut is removed, there is a special puller just for it's removal.

oh ok, we decided to tighten the nut up anyway and it works fine, got it started for the first time! We've started it 2 times now, each time tightening and tying things down with cable ties to stop it rattling. The clutch case was rattling a lot so we took it off and found that all 3 of the bolts that hold it in have been sheared off.

Now that we got it running and it was sounding a bit ruff (make that very ruff) how do we tune the carb?

Also what type of spark plug should we buy?

i don't know much about tuning carbs but i would put in a new spark plug before i messed with it
ngk br8es and br7es is what you want for a plug i believe





david

ok thanks, anyone know about tunning the carb?

Went to a shop and ordered one of each spark plug NGK B7ES and NGK B8ES.Also i have made gaskets for the Engine between teh crankcase and the shaft section which have sealed very well, I also made one for the head gasket but the gasket paper I have is only 120'C. Is there a special sort of gasket paper for the head as it will obviously be hotter than the lower gasket or can i use the same paper?

You want the BR plugs not B.

As far as the carb, turn the idle mixture screw in all the way then back it out 1-1/2 to 2 turns. The mixture screw is on the left side nearly between the carb and gas tank.

Set the idle to roughly 1500 rpm.

Even running perfectly the 250 will vibrate like crazy at idle, it has no counter balancer like the 350 and pilot.

ok thanks for the info, ill try it, How do I know what 1500 RPM is?

Oh but the manual says B7ES

You need to buy an official head gasket for that, unless you have a way of laser cutting soft copper sheets.

oh ok, ill add it to the list if items to buy.

Ahh, missed the part about the early type Engine, you want the resistor plugs for the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) ignitions.

Well im pretty sure i idetified it correctly as a 77 or 78 Engine so which spark plug do i wont?

in my 6v points motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) 77-78 i run a BR7es but will be changing to the Champion equal as soon as i can get back to the store.

OMO

so am i to put in a B7ES or BR7ES? The maunal that i have is that one that is on the internet for 81 models.

You use the BR plugs in the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) engines, if you have a 77-78 you have a points type Engine.

Whatever you do, DON'T run anything but an NGK plug though.

Champions are not a good choice IMO

Clymer says
1977-1980 BR7ES
1981 BR8ES
1982-on BR9ES

do what you want

i run a BR7ES in both of mine 1977 6v points and 1982 12v CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) and they work great

OMO

Yup, but you only really need the resistor plug when you're running the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).

I personally would never run anything hotter than the BR9ES, unless conditions warrant them, i.e. I have always run the BR9ES in the 250's without any problems.

ok ill try one of BR7ES and one of BR8ES. and see which one works better.

We tried both of the new plugs and neither of them work but the old NGK BR8ES still does and also a NGK BR8EG works which was in the other port. Any ideas why?

Got it running for about a minute until it stalled, YAY! Still makes a lot of noise but not as much as the other day. We then pulled it through at least 30 times. Every time smoke came out of the gap between the exhaust pipe and the Engine and out of the exhaust pipe, but it didn't start, any ideas why? Could it be because of a leak at the exhaust pipe/Engine gap?

Pipe may be plugged somewhat? Try it without the pipe. It make a lot of racket so do it during the day of course but it may be plugged. Running it for a little bit without the pipe will not hurt anything but your ears and your frinedship with close neihbors. Don't rev it a lot or ride it. Just see if it runs.

The leaks of smoke hurt performance a little (very little) but not make it not run.

If I had to guess I would say the damaged wiring may be opening up. It might have had a connection but once the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) vibrated or maybe heat (I dunno if it could have gotten hot enough in a minute but maybe? Maybe it ran a lil longer than a minute.) But either of these can make a bad connection a NO connection.

Does it still have spark?

I would also pop the starter back off and look at the flywheel and the other guts too. Maybe something else let loose in there. Bill

Well it has absolutely no spark with new BR8ES or BR7ES plugs, but was sparking yesterday with the old plugs and sparked stronger when we cleaned up some of the connections of the electrics.

How can it blow smoke out the back but not start up?

Will check under the pull start today.

Have someone hold a paper towel in front of the exhaust and pull it over. Are you 100% sure its smoke and not just a mist? If the paper towel gets wet then its a mist of gas vapor.

The only other thing and I AM guessing here is the loose wiring is so bad its firing later and barely burning what it can with a weak spark but this seems silly even to me.

My Autoshop teacher in High school always used to tell us Fix all the obvious problems and usually the hard to fix ones will go away. If I were you and did not want it breaking down I would seek a new flywheel and the parts behind it. But that's me.

Checked that the plug was sparking and it seems to be a better looking spark than the other day still only on the old plugs though. Is it alright to use a NGK BR8EG?

Got it running with a NGK BR8EG, was running for about 2-3 mins and pulled throttle to about 2/3-3/4 through but it didnt move forward, so i suspect theres obviously something wrong with the clutch, or gear box. It blew heaps of smoke and spat out heaps of grease. But it was good to get it above idle and give it a quick run. I think it then stalled becuase it fowled the plug.

Its spitting out grease? Sounds like you have something serious in the exhaust.

Pop the exhaust off and hit the gas once. If it at least trys to run you got a plugged exhaust.

You can also take the exhaust and put an airhose to it. Fab a seal around the airnozzle to the pipe even if its jsut a tightly wound rag that's big enough to be a lil bigger than the pipe. Jam it in the end of the pipe from the cylinder end. If you can build ANY pressure at all theres your problem. Try the same with the silencer if its separate. You might be able to get the pipe cleaned locally or do it your self.