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 Post subject: driven clutch removal
PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:07 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:59 am
Posts: 250
im trying to take it off and do some tyranny maintenance (or to see if it's blown)

we let the clutch sit in liquid wrench for 2 weeks taped the 3 holes and tryed to pull it but ended up pulling the treads on one bolt.

looks grim for taking off


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:10 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
when i took mine off it was a pain in the a$$
took me 2 hrs with two breaker bar rachets

if i can find the photos u'll laugh


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:17 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
found them

i backed up the bolts so i wouldn't strip out the driven clutch
Image
Image
Image
Image


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:24 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:59 am
Posts: 250
ok so I take it the driven clutch usually does not survive


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:27 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
it survived


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:39 am 
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Posts: 250
so you pry it open and have nuts on the other side?

I only taped and used bolts


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 2:43 am 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Jordant wrote:
so you pry it open and have nuts on the other side?

I only taped and used bolts


i drilled and tapped the bolts

u used the nuts with washers brazed on them because i was afraid of the bolts pulling threw

the thing went pop pop pop with every rachet of the breaker bar


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:09 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2012 11:35 am
Posts: 2010
Location: Ottawa, IL
That's a huge ass breaker bar! I must have been very lucky. Next time I go to my dads I'm pulling mine and recoating the shaft with never-sieze. Seems like such easy maintenance to spare these massive headaches. I think I'll be adding this step to my pre purchase inspection if I ever look at another one of these things.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 12:43 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 03, 2012 11:45 pm
Posts: 3610
Location: CHICO,CA
Fatcat wrote:
That's a huge ass breaker bar! I must have been very lucky. Next time I go to my dads I'm pulling mine and recoating the shaft with never-sieze. Seems like such easy maintenance to spare these massive headaches. I think I'll be adding this step to my pre purchase inspection if I ever look at another one of these things.


Ya it sucked

Sanded it and lots of antisense :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 8:47 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 29, 2012 1:59 am
Posts: 250
were going to try and use my uncles gear heater.

basicly it puts an electric charge over the metal heating it up.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 9:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 28, 2012 9:36 pm
Posts: 10
Location: Connecticut
Hello. New to the forum and hope this helps. It has worked for all the FL250 and FL350R driven clutches I have had to remove. Remove the bolt and washer that retains the clutch. Find a steel or brass sacrificial washer that has a slightly smaller diameter than the input shaft and does not contact the driven clutch. Lay the washer over the input shaft and use a air hammer with a flat tipped bit no larger than the washer to loosen and vibrate the clutch off. You may have to use a pry bar or large screw driver to apply some pressure to the inner side of the clutch hub to help it off the shaft. This has worked for me everytime with out damage to trans or clutch. Make sure you use some fine emery cloth to polish the input shaft and apply anti-sieze upon reassembly. After doing this, the next time I pulled the clutch, it came off much easier. Good Luck.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 28, 2012 10:11 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
madmenmotorsports wrote:
You may have to use a pry bar or large screw driver to apply some pressure to the inner side of the clutch hub to help it off the shaft.


Just be sure you don't crack the transmission case when doing this. Use a block of wood or steel bar to straddle over some cage or a few points -- not just one concentrated spot on the case. Same applies to pulling a nail out of a stud on a sheetrock'd wall with a hammer. ;)


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