Hey Lee - is it possible for you to get some tech data on the pilot fuel sensor thermister? Part number 37810-MS8-008. The part is discontinued, but the old ones can be repaired. You can see the Thermister in the picture below. See how the round disk came off the wire. Anyway, to replace this i want to make sure I buy the correct thermister. there are different syles PTC na NTC and different ratings. Any info you can get will help.

Has to be another sensor being built that can replace the Pilot one?

Ever since mine failed and i disected it, I have always wondered how these things work. I found this in an article on the net about the Goldwing fuel sensor....


After doing a little bit of research, I found out that the sensor is actually a
thermistor that is rated at 1,000 ohms at 25 degrees Celsius. These little
thermistors come in two different types-PTC and NTC. What our Gold Wings use is
the NTC, which decreases resistance as temperature increases. It is in a series
circuit with the indicator bulb. As long as the thermistor is submerged in
gasoline, it remains cool and the resistance to the flow of electrons is
anywhere between 900 and 1200 ohms, depending on the temperature of the
gasoline. When the gasoline level drops below the level of the thermistor, the
current flow through the thermistor and the light bulb causes the thermistor to
heat up and drop its resistance, thus illuminating the bulb. Damage to the
thermistor is likely to occur if you refuel with the ignition key on and the
reserve indicator illuminated. When the cold fuel comes in contact with a hot
thermistor, the sudden temperature change permanently damages the thermistor.
My advice is to turn your key to the off position when you refuel. This advice
applies to all motorcycles, not just Gold Wings.

Scince mine went bad I will pull it apart anfter I get my replacement one

Where did you find the replacement?

bought an good used one from an fourm member

I found the thermistors that are used in the sensor and purchased a couple for about $1 each. I soldered it in place and it works great. I coated the outside of the sensor with epoxy just to make sure it was sealed and to stop it from grounding out if it makes contact with the side of the can. It takes about 60 seconds when there is no fuel around the sensor for the light to start to glow. In another 60 seconds the light is on full brightness.
Here is what I purchased:


http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDet ... 27-2004-1K

Thanks for the info, when doing a DIY repair their is no risk of something inside shorting and turning the Pilot gas tank into a bomb? Poofkaboom?

Yes I agree. There is always a chance of a DIY repair going bad, especially in a gas tank. Do your own research and testing. You also have to understand how it works and what you are doing.
Here is another link to read:

http://www.st-riders.net/index.php?topic=976.0

Received the new thermister and installed it today. With the sensor plugged into the wire harness just hanging outside the tank, I turned the key on and about 25 seconds later the fuel light started to glow then went to full bright. Very happy to find the part and get this discontinued part back in working order. I even used some brasso cleaner before I soldered it together and it looks like new.

Probably the cheapest and easiest pilot fix I have ever had.

Nice fix...I'm considering doing a fuel tank mod to the 350 and adding a light so I know when I'm getting low. I wonder if I can do a sensor through the drain hole or would it be too risky?

Drain plug might be to low. There's a write up on a fl350 fuel sensor. Does anyone know the link ?

Found it.

viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5804&p=48744&hilit=Fuel+sensor#p48744

when taking the sensor out of the tank will it leak fuel if the gas level is too high? I've got an intermiten light when its idling its on all the time, but when I take off and on a long run the light goes off completely. It happened with a full tank and a half a tank. Anybody think its something besides the fuel sensor?

drain all the gas from the thank when removing the sensor

mins is having the same problem thinking thres somthing wrong with my harness
replaced it with a good used one at it came back with in 1 hour



and welcome to the site

Maybe something is going on with the check unit, I am not positive and would need to look at the wiring harness diagram to be sure BUT I think you can just unplug the check unit and the sensor lights will still work they just will not come on for a few seconds when you turn the key on.

Please do not quote me on this.

I would look at my manual now but it is at work, I can check tomorrow if you need me to.

my light comes on with a full tank 1/2 a tank flashes all the time it gets pretty irritating after a while
the one i installed i know is good

I will look at my manual when I get to work.

The check/timer unit is only there to light up the temp. and fuel lights for a few seconds when the key is first turned on, it does not check the sensors or switches just the bulbs and wire circuit from the check unit to the steering handle.

I have never seen one bad but it could cause something like this I would think.

The best thing would be to try a different good one, but I think (and will check on this) you can just unplug the check unit and see if it still has this problem, all the sensors should still work, the check unit is spliced in to the same wiring as the sensors (again I will check on this) so unplugging it will not disconnect the sensors it will just take the check unit out of the loop.

Hello, very sorry for the late reply.
After looking at the wiring diagram I realized that I made a mistake on my earlier post and have corrected it, the check/timer unit only lights up the fuel and temp. lights for a few seconds.

I would unplug you check/timer unit and see if it still has the glitch with the fuel light coming on, it will not affect the sensors working. You could actually run without the check unit all together, your 2 lights would just not light up when you turn the key on. I do not suggest running this way, it is at least nice to know the 2 bulbs are working and it is kind of cool.

The lights work with ground completing the circuit (power is supplied constant after the key is on) so the fuel sensor gray/black wire could have its insulation rubbed off somewhere and be grounding.

I hope this helps.

Please post what you find.

Hi Guys, Just to bring this up to the front again, can one of you helpful people confirm exactly which thermistor i need to repair my 89 Pilots fuel sensor please ?

Cheers Sandy