If is an Stock Pilot I will go wit hthe Stock pipe...


dykid

I have a spare stock pipe, no silencer if you need it.

I concer, if your stock with no mods the stock pipe will be your best bet. with slite mods go with a power pipe that is coated. Clutch change, big bore, porting, intake, and head work go with a rev pipe coated. That the basics of it. If you start to mod, it will lead from one thing to another untill you have it all, now that's the fun part of it. Can you say feel the power. Give me a heck ya

What is the goal your trying to achieve?

Sorry! I would look into a power pipe (torque) if all other is stock this will work well if drive clutch,air intake,carb,reeds, bore (not past second bore)is stock this will pull bottom end up to 7400 rpm. Please not the power pipe with stock clutch may bog a little of the bottom due to clutch engagement speed to low to get it on the pipe. Once on the pipe it should do fine. Choices may be power pro,atvr,lrd. I would recomend a pipe that is coated instead of painted or chrome. as you mod it will respond better to the mods as you make them. If your building a rev motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) (up to 8200 rpm) than go with the rev pipe. it will take a lot of mods to get there and harder on parts. I personly believe going past 8000 is not worth money due to the peak power and stress involved on the 400. that's a lot of piston at that speed. If you go with a pipe next thing to do would be replace drive clutch (for higher engagement speed, help keeping it on the pipe(rpm in which the pipe is designed to run) ) and check driven clutch plates and spring for wear in order to take full advantage of the pipe milling the head and rechamber for $85.00 plus gasket will make a big difference that you will fill when you get on the pipe(pipe,clutch,milledhead around$750.00). PS GET A GOOD SILENCER THERE LOUD. My set up for clutch,pipe and head is, Power block HRD cap 14 disc. engage 4200 RPM ,run half throttle at 5800 rpm to full throttle and run out on clutch 7600 rpm 3/4 throttle to full at 6400 to 7600(on the peak power band of the pipe), head mileed 2.5mm 172psi with 50% bore areas quish band, stock (A) bore with raised exhaust port 1mm wided to 1.5mm intake tracts cleand up, new reed cage and reeds v-force off a cr 250 39mm carb 185 main jet. power pipe, long silencer, work shocks all the way around. If you do the work the shocks are a must or you can not take advantage of the power increase. My friends has all but carb and shocks and uses an alt power block as well as lrd chrome pipe and I can walk away from him on the rough stuff in the straughts and out power him thru the cornors. Yes we swithched bike to make sure it wasn't the driver. We even have a this set up using stock carb and pipe which works well and it will take my friends down the straights and out of the cornors it does have the shocks the shock will make a big difference thru the cornors and the rough. Hope this helps keep us posted on what you do and how it works.