I just bought 2 350's and the manual says every 30 hours for competition it needs a rebuild. I do run mine hard so I'm wondering where I go to buy rebuild kits. I don't want to by one part from here and another from there. Does anyone just make a complete kit?
I'm also trying to find catalogs that carry aftermarket and oem fl350 parts. If anybody knows of some I'd love to know.

These 350's are awesome and very fast. I wish they were better off the start but I can imagine how fast the pilots are.

ONe more question....The guy I bought these from said he lets them warm up for about ten minutes before riding. After driving 2 hours to a trail, I tried that and my luck, it just died. Would not start back up. After an hour and a half someone came by and pulled my spark plug out and it was very oily and fouled. What is causing this and why cant I just let it idle for a while without it fouling?
Thanks fellow oddy drivers!

Welcome to the Pilot Odyssey community!

Read the manual again I think it says to take it apart for inspection then gives
you details on how to measure everything and wear specs so you know when to
replace the parts?

30 hrs is a conservative number myself I like to do a tear down and inspection
during the off season once a year but this might depend on how many hrs you
use your machine in a years time.

I can only assume the former owner installed wiseco pistons and therefore instructed
you to allow more warm up time?

If you fouled a plug there is a good chance your jetting is too rich, know anything
about jetting a 2 cycle Engine?

Here is some good jetting articles that may help, have questions they cant answer
then ask them again here. http://pilotodyssey.com/tech.htm

Their are plenty of internet trolls out there on the Pilot Odyssey message boards
that are just laying in wait to sell you something, don't hesitate to ask us before
you buy parts or services legit vendors have no problem with others discussing
things like products, services, customer service, experience, prices etc. in public.

Triple E use to have a catalog you will have to call and see if they still do 1-800-763-3762
Odyssey Salvage has a online catalog http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=16721/

We have a good guy discount setup with Hillside Honda for OEM and any after
market parts you might need, ask for Trevor and tell him "hoser sent me" he
will take care of you and set you up with a discount account.
707-263-9000

ATV Racing has some stuff to offer for Pilots and Odysseys http://www.atvracing1.com
Now if your going to deal with someone other than I have listed here I suggest you ask
lots of questions BUYER BEWARE heck it wouldn't hurt to ask here on this board to see
what others think of your future purchase were here to help and advise not to profit from
you....

You ever ride at Little Sahara in OK ? We are planning a fall trip in sept maybe you can
make it? maybe even Randy at Odysseysalvage.com can attend and give you pointers
on your 350's?

Contact Sara or Ed at Triple E enterprises in ramona california .Sara will undoubtably answer the phone and will send you out a catalog on request.1-800-763-3762
they are fl350 and dwarf race car speciallists and will help with new or used parts and motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) machine work etc.

Hi and welcome. Is either machine modified?(bigger carb, piped, liq cooled) Fouling the plug at idle huh, What gas/oil ratio are you using? I know the manual says 20:1 but 99% of the people here run 32:1 with a good synthetic oil(NO Wally world crap). What brand and temp range plug fouled out? I got my first 350 in 1995 and have been running them ever since. What part of Kansas do you live in? I am in Cheyenne Wyoming now. Between myself and 2 friends here, we have 7 350 odys. Come on over and ride sometime. Gary

hey Nuke um (cousin) let me talk you out of one of those 350 :) hahahah

hope to see you and fed at Ls next trip - end of Sept or Oct

Curtis

Nukem...man that's a lot of ody's. I bet Wyoming is fun, a lot more hills. I live in the Wichita area which is in Butler county just North of Oklahoma.
Have you ever rebuilt your 350?
Neither of my machines is modified. I do run 20:1 with Penzzoil 2-stroke and 87 octane. (I didnt have time to run to the honda dealer for premium oil). Is it okay to switch to full synthetic premix oil? Do I need to change balancer oil to synthetic too? The Plugs I changed out were NGK B8ES and a champion 8 series.

Is going to 32:1 going to lessen the Engine life any? I would think it would by not giving it as much lubrication. At WOT (Wide Open Throttle) on the straight a ways its good. Just when I idle it or am going slow for a little while like on a tough trail will it foul. I need to probably check the carb and try to rejet it. I guess I will make sure all jets are stock numbers first then work from there.

I'm thinking seriously about the dial-a-jet system too, It sounds like its for the lesser knowledged like me.
Thanks for everyones replies! YOur very helpful, this is an awesome club.
noskwik

Dial a jet is really not needed once you jet your Ody you will be ok between 0-5000' and 30-100 degrees unless your wanting race level performance then you will want to tune closer for max
power, the dial a jet also has problems with keeping the vent that sux air in the new circuit of
your carb when used off road, they make a filter kit for it but sooner or later it will be a problem,
if you want to get one and play that's ok too.

The first step would be to remove your carb and see what jets you have and make sure
your reeds are sealing then go from there the former owner may have jetted it real
fat before he sold it to you?

Running the 32:1 mix will be fine.Get away from that penzzoil! It is good or ok for boats etc. but don't run it just because its easy to get.Use theNGK br7 or 8es plugs.stock specs call for the br7es but either will work fine.I like a premix oil w/ color,one reason i run the yamalube 2r oil which is a semi synthetic oil(you can allways tell if the fuel can has been mixed or not),w/clear oils you may think it's mixed and if it's not and you get mixed up on fuel can's well you know what will happen,been there and got cans confused and lost two buggy motors in one day
The stock specs for the oil balancer call for the honda 4 (four stroke 10w40 oil) it's easy and you don't have to worry about foaming with it.Same with the transmission,especially if your going to run it in the winter,you wont have to change viscosity's.Running gear lube is fine too but you have to make sure it wont foam on you.
There are a lot of other oils out thier that are fine to use for premix ams oil,golden spectro,honda's,lucas etc etc.,i just happen to chose the yamalube2r,it is good for breakin and running and has a purple color to it ,and is a quality oil.
Also run premuim fuel not just regular fuel or mid grade.premium fuel and a quality oil at 32:1 mix and proper jetting will be the best you can do for it. ALSO if your unsure of the buggy's history then a air leakdown test might be a good idea.

Sounds like you are getting good info from Hoser and Tim.

One of my buddies put a Dial-a-Jet on one of his built-up machines with excellent results. We normally ride between 5000 and 10,000 ft so jetting is always a problem here. Hoser is right about the vent tube foam getting dirty quickly (not much mud or water, but very dusty trails, ask Eddy LOL) but seems to do fine in the dunes. I ran one on my "All Go, No Show" machine with good results until LS Oklahoma this spring. The threaded brass tube/jet stripped-out the theads and started sucking LARGE amounts of that tasty red sand!

Rebuild my Engine? So many times over the years,its sickning. I had a leaky crank seal causing a lean condition also known as "Poof-Ka-Boom" LOL. It took 4 pistons and top end rebuilds to figure out what was wrong (I am dense or slow I guess). I am a graduate of the school of hard knocks for the 350s now.

As far as your spark plug, you SHOULD be running a BR9ES(stock) (warm weather) and must be a resistive plug. I run a BR7EIX(hotter plug and Iridium) in my built up engines. I accidently put in a non-resistive(B8ES) a few years back and had revving and idling problem shortly there after.

As far oils, just pick something quality and stick with it(don't mix oils or change brands constantly). Everyone has there own favorite, mine is Belray H1R. I ride mine like I stole it and normally do not give it a warm-up time. ( I know, that's not good on it) I had 2 1/2 years on it with only 5-10 lbs of lost compression over that time frame, until LS.(damn that Dial-a-Jet). I also run Wiesco pistons, which some people do not like because they expand more than a stock piston.

Post again for more specific info. Have a manual yet? Do you have a good base 2-stroke knowledge? Good tools and guages(leak-down tester, compression guage,..) Not trying to piss you off, just getting back ground info on you to help you out.

I , like most everyone here, will give the best info we can to help out. Everyone seems to have a little different take on things and what you need to do. Check out everyones ideas and make your own desisions.

Good luck and keep asking questions, Gary

Don't worry, I'm not gonna get mad . Actually I have virtually no 2-stroke knowledge. I had a 2 stroke yamaha bike (1979?) but it had an oil mixer. It didnt last long anyways. I found the online manual and have printed off pages from that to help me. Overall though, just reading these posts and others, I've learned more than what the manual could tell me on a specific topic. You guys are smart, I'll give ya that. This is my first honda oddysey and will probably not be my last.
I'm gonna take everyones advice on oils and plugs, etc. My plans for this weekend are to first go to honda and buy a good 2stroke oil. I will premix 32:1 with premium gas. I'll drain all fluids and refill with quality oil just so I know. I'll install a fresh NGK BR8ES. ( I know you said the 9 so I"ll try both out to see whats better. Clean or replace the gas and air filters.
I cant really tune it in yet because I broke a throttle cable. I did a compression test on the cold Engine and it showed 125lbs. I'll have to do it again when I'm able to start it and warm it up. I took the carb apart to see what jets, etc. Its all oem settings and numbers. Didnt have a float gauge. The air screw was turned out 4.5 turns! shouldn't it be 1.5 turns plus or minus according to the air stop (idle) screw? Another question...what kind of tachometer is the manual talking about so I can adjust the idle rpm? Can I hook on up so I can use it in the cockpit all the time and how and what kind?
As far as tools goes, I've got mechanics tools, compression guage...havent made an air test guage yet. Just to get that straight, I plug the exhaust port, plug the reed valve and hook a guage assembly to some port on the crankcase, fill with air and let sit?
I wish I knew more, I could be as helpful to others as you all have been towards me. you all must be ASE Certified mechanics, Graduates of Harvard, worlds smartest person who goes on Jay Leno....LOL.
Thanks everyone, Stephen[/list]