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 Post subject: Rear FL350 shock rebuild
PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
This one is for you Randistman LOL.
Since it is raining here at the moment and there is still snow in the hills and roads F'D up, I decided to tackle the rear shock rebuild. At the moment it is only taken apart, but I do have the parts.
I will add a note to each pic if necessary and there is some important info there so don't skip over.
The shock I am rebuilding was toast before I took it apart. If you pushed in the rod it didn't come out and oil smear was all over the outside if it. There was only a quarter oz of oil left in it.
There may be some points of argument here but I have my own pet theories. In my opinion these are oil only shocks (no gas). I can here the laughter already. You will all say "but the rod extends out on mine after you push it in". My answer is that pressure is caused by build up of pressure after it has run awhile. I believe I can prove this. Back in 1979 when I tried my luck at motocross racing (I sucked), my front shocks had shrader valves on them, at the time this was a hop up secret. The shrader valves were not to add psi but to let the air pressure out !!! With zero pressure at start of race by the end of the race it had substantial pressure build up. Also the stock rear shocks do not have a port to add any gas pressure so they must be oil only.
Get your fork and sharpen the knife.


Attachments:
File comment: Taking it apart with my homemade spring compressor
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File comment: Tap tap tap the cap off with a punch
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File comment: Crap n sand under the cap. I bet big money everyones looks like this inside.
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File comment: Use an old wrist pin and a clamp to push down on the top end so that you can get the circlip out. Note: don't get rammy it comes out real easy if you know how. What you do is push the circlip down to get it out of the groove and then hook it out. The tube is beveled on the bottom side of the circlip groove but not the top side, so that's why it comes out of the groove easier going down. It requires very little effort to push the circlip down.
20160601_233409.jpg
20160601_233409.jpg [ 34.47 KiB | Viewed 1887 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:53 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
More pics and info.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 2:58 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
More


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File comment: In these next two pics you can see the bottom side and top side of the top seal after I have taken it off. This seal has a metal case and the rubber is laminated onto it. You need a punch to knock it off of the main body
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:00 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Well.....

Where's the rest of it? Inquiring minds want to know! LOL :-)

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
More


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File comment: This is a pic of the main body. Note that it has a rod guide sleeve in it. DO NOT KNOCK OUT THIS SLEEVE because the rebuild kit does not come with one.
20160601_235600.jpg
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I guess I'm jumping the gun.

I'll quit typing and be patient.

Rand


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:06 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
More


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File comment: The lay out
20160602_000113.jpg
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File comment: Here is a pic of the part number of the kit and what it in it. You will note that it only has two seals in it. One is the top seal and the other is the bottom one. Pay attention to which way the bottom seal came out. All of you donkeys have phones with a camera --- use it !!!
20160602_000419.jpg
20160602_000419.jpg [ 30.82 KiB | Viewed 1884 times ]
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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 3:08 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Side note:
In the last two pics here I noticed that I placed the circlip at the wrong end in the picture.
Also I have several rebuild kits for my shocks and even though they are the same part number, one of my kits has an extra seal in it, but it is not used for our shocks.


More to come in the following days.


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 6:00 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 3:47 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Haverhill, MA and Conway, NH
Hope you cover how fix the bushings that I haven't found a replacement for?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 02, 2016 6:41 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Track Addict wrote:
Hope you cover how fix the bushings that I haven't found a replacement for?


Start a new thread on it please, and add lots of CLEAR pics please so I know what you are talking about.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:31 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
canadian oddy wrote:
Side note:
In the last two pics here I noticed that I placed the circlip at the wrong end in the picture.
Also I have several rebuild kits for my shocks and even though they are the same part number, one of my kits has an extra seal in it, but it is not used for our shocks.


More to come in the following days.



OPPPS ---- The circlip in the last two pics is in the correct position.
I must have been thinking about the clip that holds everything in place at the very top end of the shock.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:35 am 
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Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Well I completed it tonight.
Seems to work. Ready to go.

Time to use the knife and fork Rand :-)


Attachments:
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20160603_001509.jpg
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:38 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Will be working on another project, but not until winter possibly.
There is a belief that you must run the oddy rear shocks because all other shocks are to long and cause u-joint bind.
You are all mistaken :-) .
(I am talking about non works and other very high priced shocks)


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:35 am 
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Joined: Thu May 07, 2015 3:47 pm
Posts: 151
Location: Haverhill, MA and Conway, NH
The bushing in the rear shock you just rebuilt. Did you change them out?


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 10:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
canadian oddy wrote:
Will be working on another project, but not until winter possibly.
There is a belief that you must run the oddy rear shocks because all other shocks are to long and cause u-joint bind.
You are all mistaken :-) .
(I am talking about non works and other very high priced shocks)


Great Job Can Odd! :-) You did well!

Crow really doesn't taste all that bad! :shock: LOL

We should be able to save quite some shocks that just need the internals rebuilt.

Now we just need to figure out how to fix the bushing on the bottom of the shock. I'm guessing there may be some Heim joint that is available that will press into the shock.

Randiestman


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:22 pm 
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Location: Chicago
Are you sure on the nitrogen for these shocks I thought they are charged with nitrogen, their is a special tool or procedure to charge shocks without the fittings, a shock expert could probably tell you the details, but the nitrogen keeps the bubbles out of the oil improves dampening without the bubbles.

I remember MGR telling me he rebuilt Gottarides OEM rear shocks think it was just seals and fresh oil, fuzzy on the nitrogen charging details so many conversations from too many years ago think he welded fittings on the shocks, factory shocks sucks the spring rates are crazy stiff so not long after rebuilding he installed WORKS.

My RZR shocks requires you use a special needle stuck in a rubber plug on the shock to add the nitrogen I drilled, tapped added a standard fitting.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:28 pm 
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Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
I was under the impression they were filled with nitrogen also. Maybe I'm wrong (wouldn't be the first time LOL)?

If memory serves me right, in a free state without the spring, the shock will rebound back after compression.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 2:33 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
hoser wrote:
Are you sure on the nitrogen for these shocks I thought they are charged with nitrogen, their is a special tool or procedure to charge shocks without the fittings, a shock expert could probably tell you the details, but the nitrogen keeps the bubbles out of the oil improves dampening without the bubbles.

I remember MGR telling me he rebuilt Gottarides OEM rear shocks think it was just seals and fresh oil, fuzzy on the nitrogen charging details so many conversations from too many years ago think he welded fittings on the shocks, factory shocks sucks the spring rates are crazy stiff so not long after rebuilding he installed WORKS.

My RZR shocks requires you use a special needle stuck in a rubber plug on the shock to add the nitrogen I drilled, tapped added a standard fitting.


Like I said in the very first paragraph of this post "points of argument".
I honestly feel they are oil only.
I believe this because there is no fitting of any kind to insert gas. In my mind you need some kind of fitting. Otherwise how did the factory install the gas ?? Like I said in that first paragraph, when I was a teen racing motocross my front shocks had shraders to let the air out because it builds up as the forks cycle. I bet these shocks did the same over time. The cycling causes heat and heat causes pressure build up.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 2:36 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Track Addict wrote:
The bushing in the rear shock you just rebuilt. Did you change them out?


No I did not change them out. May be something I can think about for a future project :-) .
Man I got a lot of projects right now. I am planning on building a vacuum former this winter as well. I want to make a couple of those tool boxes that you put in place of that roof panel or maybe between your legs between the two front bars. Way way way to many brain waves.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 2:53 pm 
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Joined: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:10 am
Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
canadian oddy wrote:
hoser wrote:
Are you sure on the nitrogen for these shocks I thought they are charged with nitrogen, their is a special tool or procedure to charge shocks without the fittings, a shock expert could probably tell you the details, but the nitrogen keeps the bubbles out of the oil improves dampening without the bubbles.

I remember MGR telling me he rebuilt Gottarides OEM rear shocks think it was just seals and fresh oil, fuzzy on the nitrogen charging details so many conversations from too many years ago think he welded fittings on the shocks, factory shocks sucks the spring rates are crazy stiff so not long after rebuilding he installed WORKS.

My RZR shocks requires you use a special needle stuck in a rubber plug on the shock to add the nitrogen I drilled, tapped added a standard fitting.


Like I said in the very first paragraph of this post "points of argument".
I honestly feel they are oil only.
I believe this because there is no fitting of any kind to insert gas. In my mind you need some kind of fitting. Otherwise how did the factory install the gas ?? Like I said in that first paragraph, when I was a teen racing motocross my front shocks had shraders to let the air out because it builds up as the forks cycle. I bet these shocks did the same over time. The cycling causes heat and heat causes pressure build up.


I'm with Hoser, I believe they are nitrogen charged. This is what I was thinking when I said that they couldn't be rebuilt to start with. One way to find out if they will work without the nitrogen charge..........

Your next quest should be a ride test and report please.

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 3:09 pm 
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Posts: 7701
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Randman wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
hoser wrote:
Are you sure on the nitrogen for these shocks I thought they are charged with nitrogen, their is a special tool or procedure to charge shocks without the fittings, a shock expert could probably tell you the details, but the nitrogen keeps the bubbles out of the oil improves dampening without the bubbles.

I remember MGR telling me he rebuilt Gottarides OEM rear shocks think it was just seals and fresh oil, fuzzy on the nitrogen charging details so many conversations from too many years ago think he welded fittings on the shocks, factory shocks sucks the spring rates are crazy stiff so not long after rebuilding he installed WORKS.

My RZR shocks requires you use a special needle stuck in a rubber plug on the shock to add the nitrogen I drilled, tapped added a standard fitting.


Like I said in the very first paragraph of this post "points of argument".
I honestly feel they are oil only.
I believe this because there is no fitting of any kind to insert gas. In my mind you need some kind of fitting. Otherwise how did the factory install the gas ?? Like I said in that first paragraph, when I was a teen racing motocross my front shocks had shraders to let the air out because it builds up as the forks cycle. I bet these shocks did the same over time. The cycling causes heat and heat causes pressure build up.


I'm with Hoser, I believe they are nitrogen charged. This is what I was thinking when I said that they couldn't be rebuilt to start with. One way to find out if they will work without the nitrogen charge..........

Your next quest should be a ride test and report please.

Rand


Actually I will be installing them on my brothers machine because the ones he has on right now are leaking. He was telling me that they were bottoming out. May take a while to get back to this post with a report.
I also feel that after a few rides these shocks will "gas up".
As they cycle they will build up heat and pressure.


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 4:03 pm 
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Location: Carson City NV
You two ride pretty hard so it should be a good test to see if they will work without a nitrogen charge.

Keep us posted.

P.S. If it works we all all be sending you our old FL350 shocks for a rebuild LOL! :shock:

Rand


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:57 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Randman wrote:
You two ride pretty hard so it should be a good test to see if they will work without a nitrogen charge.

Keep us posted.

P.S. If it works we all all be sending you our old FL350 shocks for a rebuild LOL! :shock:

Rand


Well I learned my lesson from that jaylow goof, so I don't think I would be doing anything like that anymore. Unless I know someone personally I will have to pass. In fact I wasn't even sure if I was going to post this at all in the first place because I didn't want to help out some clown like that. If you read the post slowly you will see that I did leave out some critical info. If any of you guys want to know what it is you will have to pm me.


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 12:40 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here is another great read on why I believe the single tube shock design of the oddy is NOT gas charged: https://www.rideapart.com/articles/the- ... -explained
Some people here have worx or fox shocks on their oddy's and the gas charge and oil are always separated from each other by a piston and O-rings. The oddy rear shocks have no piston.
The first part is just boring so you can skip to the real details starting at "Balance free rear cushion".


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 13, 2016 7:54 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I have not forgotten this post. The weather has been bad here for a while now and I don't like riding in the mud. In fact its raining here now. Also family issues screw up the riding as well. I will update. Also I contacted Showa shocks for info but they have not gotten back to me. Their website says they reserve the right not to reply to some inquiries. If they do respond I will post.


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