I totally didn't understand, I left the top bolt so there was a 1/2 inch gap between the frame and the inside of the Shock eye. I thought that seemed like a lot I was worried about the bolt bending and the fender mount not working.

Next question anybody have experience with the Oddy-Cool Fan? How does it work for cooling. Is it worth doing? I have one I just haven't installed it yet.

Front J Arm bushings how hard are they to do?

Again thanks for all the help figuring this tire lean out. And thanks again to Randman for the works instructions.

You're welcome.

The Oddy cool fan helps. The only issue I see with using one is the access to the spark plug.

The bushing aren't difficult, the hardest part is removing the factory bushings from the arms.

Rand

So when I got the oddy it came with a box of stuff. I got the box out and went through it today and found some surprises.

3 new belts
new reeds
new lug nuts
2 new intake manifolds still sealed in plastic, not sure if they are stock. ( I think that's what they are called)
3 New Spark Plugs
All the receipts for everything he did to it.

In 2002 the previous owners installed works shocks in the front and rear and it was $738.00 for everything now just the rears are almost that much. It also had the diagram RANDMAN sent me on installation of the shocks plus the gap to leave in the rear top mounting bolt which it say .020"

Also in the box I found original owners manual and original service manual which pretty much had all the answers to the questions I had in this post. so if anyone needs to know stock settings, torque settings or anything else let me know.

If they are two new manifolds still in plastic then I think you got about 1.1 million dollars there based on the prices I have seen on Fleabay for some of the FL350 parts.
If you get a chance, scan the owners manual. I don't remember seeing any pics of one. The service manual can be had online free: http://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/

Glad you got it sorted

In Pic 20170112_173321.jpg which is a pic from the rear

Your Axle alignment it out. You need to turn one of the Axles so the Uni Joints line up the same
other wise you will have a small vibration / Hum from the Drive line

FL350 newbie here. Can confirm that the very same thing that fixed tbake4420 rear alignment issues also fixed my rear alignment issues - Works shocks that were fixed TIGHT at the the top with absolutely no play. Loosened that up and greased up some rather dry rod ends and now the rear end alignment is symmetrical.

One thing worth noting is about measuring tire symmetry - I'd recommend to keep it simple and just get the tires side by side and make sure they're both the same height and not trying to measure the actual circumference. I tried wrapping various things around the tire to measure the circumference and almost managed to convince myself there was a significant difference between the two rear tires, but after lining up the two rear tires side by side and seeing that they are both in fact the same height, I realized that it was just poor/difficult measuring of the circumference by me. (if there was an actual difference in circumference, that should have shown up in the overall height of the tires, and it did not)

UPDATE: One last thing - I haven't seen this commented on here or on a Youtube video I watched about install Work/Worx shocks, but in the instructions I downloaded (see attached), it also mentions not tightening the bottom bolt of the shock more than 18ft in order to avoid crushing/binding the rod end there. Finally, can anyone who knows comment on whether this is a Works-thing-only, or whether the looseness of the shock attachments applies to other/most aftermarket shocks? (e.g., is it just because the Works shock is lacking the rod end at the top?)