Oh my.
You can't have tires with no air in them and expect to set up your suspension.
go oddy had a good idea in his post. Then "air up" all of the tires and take some more photos. Post.
I can tell when my oddy is down a few pounds in one tire. It drives funny. It "looks" funny in the shop.

Now I'm confused. The sticker on my oddy air filter says to inflate the rear tires to 6.4 psi. How much air should be in the tires?

What is the measurement I asked about between the tire and the top of the radius arms on both sides?

Yes the links are made to be able to adjust out any minor errors in alignment. Yours my son is not a minor alignment.

Has the Ody always had the list to one side?

How long have you owned it?

Rand

Just use 5 psi for tire inflation.

Rand

I haven't been able to do the measurement yet I had to do the brakes on my sons car yesterday. I am leaving for Vegas for 4 days and I will do it when I get back.

Thank you to everyone for your help so far

I have had the oddy for about 6 months, I don't remember it being that way when I got it. I first noticed it when I took it off my trailer, it had set for about 2 months and both the left side tires were flat and the oddy was leaning to the left. I had put around 4-5 hours on it after I got it and never noticed anything wrong

The flat front tire and the larger rear tire could cause this. Air up the front tire and for test sake lower air in the larger tire.

Looks to me like he left tire was overfilled/over pressurized at sometime and the tire has stretched. Once stretched it will never be the same. If you air them both to 5psi, the left will still be bigger as it is stretched.

I remember back in the 80's dumb arses would over inflate the 3 wheeler tires so much they would rub the fenders.

After finding out the left tire was bigger than the right (taller and not as wide) I ordered some new front and rear tires. Just waiting for them to come so I can take the measurements. After much thought there are only a handful of things that could be causing my issue.

1. Shock
2. Trailing Arm
3. Stay Bracket
4. Camber Link
5.Bearing Carrier and or Bearings
6.Bent frame

Not sure if the drive axle could cause it but the axle is one of the 3 links connecting the wheel to the oddy.

Jack the car up and level.
Remove rear shocks and wheels.
Cycle suspension by hand.
That's what I would do anyway.

Tbake4420 I think the problem is explained in your screen name LOL just kidding. I think you're over complicating this, you have a flat tire and another tire that's way bigger. That will cause the buggies suspension to be in different positions on each side.

LOL @ Liduno, the front tire is holding air now I put everything back together and made a slight adjustment to the camber link. The wheel isn't leaning out like it was.

I'm convinced it is a shock issue. If I stand on the back end or the left or right side and bounce the left side will compress and the wheel moves outward. The right side does not move that much and the wheel stays the same.

When I get off the oddy the left side stays compressed until I lift it up and then it sits the same as the right side until I compress it again. The right side compresses a little but then rebounds when I step off the back end.

So I took the shocks and flip flopped them thinking the left shock was bad. But it did the same thing as before, left side compresses and stays right side compresses a little and rebounds back to normal.

Is there more weight to the left side? The oddy has the aluminum gas tank mod so the stock tank is not on the right side anymore. It also has a modified battery tray on the left side to fit a bigger battery. Dosnt seem like enough weight to compress only the left side shock.

Also I measured from the camber link top mount to the center of the tire on both sides and both were 11 1/2 inches

If the battery is bigger then it might be heavier especially considering the factory tank is removed from the other side. Since you switched the shocks it would seem you eliminated the shocks as the problem, Bullnerds idea of removing the shocks and moving the suspension should tell you if any thing is binding. Adjusting the links is probably premature till you check everything else.

After cycling the suspension by hand and observing the camber change.

My next thing to check would be the shocks without the springs.

You said earlier they sounded different when you pushed on them.

Bullnerd: Yes both shocks when installed to the left side I can hear a squishing noise (not sure what else to call it) when I stand on the back end and bounce. But only when the shock is installed on the left side. When on the right side it does not make the noise.

So what could be allowing the shock to compress on only the left side something bent? I can't find anything that looks different from the right side or anything that is obviously bent.

There is no slop in the bearings when on the jack.

Should the trailing arm move in any direction other than up and down?

Yes......

The trailing arms swing in an arc due to the rigid axle. Check to make sure you are giving sufficient wiggle room on the top shock mounting bolt to allow the bottom of the shock to swing out during suspension travel.

Rand

Randman: Not sure I understand your last post. Do I have to remove the springs and then re-install the shocks?

What is the easiest way to remove the springs if that is the case?

I removed the shocks from both sides and cycled the swing arm. They both appear to be moving the same way. Is it possible to post video on this site instead of pictures?

Also I took the fenders off and removed the battery and battery bracket and took more pics if that will help any?

You can post a video here but I haven't done it in so long I don't remember how. Just post a video to youtube and then post the link here.

What I was trying to say is that the upper Works shock mount has to be left loose enough so that the lower part of the shock can swing inward and outward approximately 1/4 in each direction for a total swing of 1/2 inch. Like I mentioned before, the rear swing arm travels in a slight outward arc when it is cycled through full travel.

Here is the installation instructions for FL350 Works shocks. Pay particular attention to the little diagram on the right side of the mounting instructions, it will show you what I mean.

http://www.worksperformance.com/pdf/ins ... 350ins.pdf

Rand

Better pictures with the shocks, battery and fenders removed

Does anything look bent or out of place in the above pictures. When I cycle the suspension nothing binds and they both appear to move the same.

Randman mentioned those shocks need to be left loose or they will cause the suspension to bind some. Were yours loose?

Happy to report after mounting the new tires and following the instructions for works shocks that RANDMAN gave me both wheels are the same and both sides compress equally when I bounce on the back end. The only issue is the left shock eye is elongated a little bit. Will that be an issue?

The previous owner had the shocks torqued down tight top and bottom and must have caused them to bind.

Just so I understand, the top shock should have a 1/2 inch total gap between the frame and the inside of the shock eye? Or is it 1/2 inch between the frame and the bolt face? The directions confused me on that point.

That's cool. And look how much you learned along the way.

You're welcome!

Look at the directions I posted. You need to leave the shock just loose enough so that the bottom of the shock will swing out at the bottom like in the picture. If you leave the shock too loose at the top, it will cause it to rattle around and get damaged. Once adjusted properly, the gap at the top will be around 1/16th of an inch.

You can get replacement bushings from works or you can probably fashion something from a hardware store. Its just a piece of plastic tubing.

Rand