Hi new guy here. Possible purchase of my 2nd odyssey...my first one was a '79 Fl250 at age 9. That one has been long gone but the love for these things still remains which brings me to the purchase of an '85 fl350 33 years later.
Completely stock and fairly clean, only one problem. Seller says the belt has gone bad...only moves at high rpms.
Is this worth buying? Is this an easy fix or is the belt even the problem?
Any info will be highly appreciated.
Thanks.

Just buy it. These machines are getting harder and harder to find in reasonable shape.
The belt is not an issue but something else may be. Highly unlikely that you won't have to work on it. These machines are over 30yrs old and some parts are very hard to find. That being said, the machines are a lot of fun once you get it sorted out. The FL350 had a lot of issues but they are fixable. We will help you here. Lots of very smart people on this board and most of us now are probably in our 50's.
Just curious but how much is the guy asking for it ?? You should be able to get a good running machine for about $3000
By the way welcome new guy.

There is a new member that just joined and is selling a Pilot (FL400).
Screen name is FSplotts. Check the for sale section here. You will probably have to get lucky as others here will most likely try to score it. Guy wants $4500 for it which is a very good price for a Pilot.
The Pilot is a better machine because it is liquid cooled and has good rear suspension, not like the rock hard rear suspension of the FL350. Not sure if you live anywhere near the seller though.

I'm southern California, and thanks for the welcome.
Well I ended up purchasing it for $1900. Like I mentioned it looks to be completely stock with the usual wear of a 30 year old machine. When inspecting the belt it seemed very loose, and when rest driving it...from a stop you would have rev it pretty good for it start rolling. Is this a belt problem or possibly the clutch?
But other than that the thing ran pretty good.

Well based on what I see there you got a good deal on that oddy.
Goddamn those look like the original tires. Good fender too.
A couple of things to start that I would check and do.
1) That's an air cooled machine so MAKE SURE you run good octane fuel or its all over. Guaranteed.
2) Verify fuel flow rate of the fuel pump. You need 4.5oz in 10sec approx. This is a must do item. Remove the fuel line from the carb and put it into a measuring container with marked ounce measurements. Turn it over with starter and time with a stop watch.
3) Make sure your tank is not rusty inside and that pickup line screens look clean (if they're even still on it)
4) Take a compression test and let us know what it is.
5) The rear suspension on an oddy is non existent. The springs are WAY to stiff. You need to get some 155lb approx. springs. If you don't you will for sure feel it in your back soon.
6) If you have some spare cash and can get a liquid cooled head then go for it. Honda had issues with over heating and had several recalls on the FL350. If your serial number has an X at the end of it then it has been in for some recall repairs.
7) Fix that ding dong hanging out the back of the exhaust. When you roll it or back into something then it will be taken care of for you.
8) Put a filter sock or two on that foam filter. Your Engine will live longer if you ride in sand. Better yet get the top to that air box.

You need to measure the width of the belt. Chances are it is wore and under minimal thickness. The CVT ( continuously variable transmission) system runs on the sides of the belt, so it being somewhat loose is normal. It is not like a V-belt that needs tension. As the RPMs of the Engine increase the drive clutch closes, engaging the belt, then spins the driven clutch which opens as the RPMs increase. It's a wonderful system keeps you in the right gear all the time.

So hopefully all you need is a new belt.


This video may help you understand how they work. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=uCEvBGT8twM

With regards to your belt issue. Take a sharpie felt pen and scribe lines from bottom to top on both shivs. The belt will rub off the felt pen marks and will tell you if they are both opening up. If you have excessive slop in the belt it is probably the wrong one.
Here are some specs:
Honda #704148 Length: 43.33” (43 21/64”)OC Width: 1.13” (1 1/8”)
Dayco HP3004 Length: 44.125” (44-1/8") Width: 1.187” (1-3/16")
I don't think you can get the Honda belt anymore but my brother and I run the Dayco. It is a bit longer than the stock Honda and has some belly but it works real well for us. Others run a smaller belt but I don't know the number, the Dayco works for us and it is easier to install. If you run a tighter belt you have to do a mod that Hoser has suggested on this site. You tap the rear shiv and install a jacking bolt to open up the shiv so that you can get the belt on. If your gona do this I can get you pics and info.

I agree with rmesser here. It's most likely worn out so measure it.
Forgot to add one thing to the list above. Remove your axels grease the splines, and install new bolts on the axels (trans side). The nut is just a jam nut and you will have to remove that first then un-thread the bolt to get it out. While you have the axel out check for tight u-joints. Causes a lot of damage if it blows at high speed. You will also have to make some shock savers. If you need a manual you can get a free pdf here: http://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/
The work has just begun . But once done these machines are fun.

Looking at your shop you appear to be mechanically inclined.
Welcome to the club.

Hey thanks for all the great info. Yes that old supertrapp silencer (which isn't so silent) is the first to go lol. I remember those things from the 80's, my brother had one on his ATC 200x. Are there modern style aftermarket exhaust systems available for these? And no worries with the air filter, the airbox top is actually sitting on the table in front of the oddy. How difficult is the airbox mod, what materials will I need? But first things first, taking care of that belt. Plus the seller mentioned that the seal of the gas cap is no longer sealing and that it effects the fuel pump. Is there a good site where we can find parts for these machines? So far from what I've seen I will need a new shifter, gas cap and parking brake cable...I'm sure the list will get longer as I dig more into it. How about shocks, is going with pricey works shocks the only way to go? Are there any quad/utv shocks that are a direct swap or maybe minor modifying to fit?
Once again thank you...especially for the PDF service manual!

Some parts are as rare as hens teeth and sell for their weight in gold. Unfortunately the parking brake cable is one of them. Not sure what is wrong with yours, but you may be able to use a cable luber and get it operational. picture attached.

I think every fl350 owner has asked about shock replacement. You can search the site to see what others have done.

You can cut a piece of leather to use as a seal for the gas cap. I'm not so sure the seal on the gas cap would have anything to do with the pump, however if the vent of the gas cap is plugged with dirt then it will not allow air into the tank, creating a vacuum as gas is consumed. Perhaps the previous owner simply removed the seal not understanding that there is a vent.

For cables try these guys: http://metrocustomcables.com/parking-brake-cables
or these guys: https://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/to ... ry/cables/
You can also try your local custom motorcycle shop as they might get custom stuff made.
Another possibility is a bicycle shop.
Why do you need a new shifter ?? Pics please.
Gas cap: rmesser's idea. Also like rmesser said: it has to vent. If it don't by by Engine.
Shocks: Baahahahahahahahaha. No real drop in from another model. Rears (length) are critical because you will get u-joint bind. It's pricey works or similar or like I do - rebuild mine (I'm cheap), and replace the rear springs. Nothing wrong with the stock units if you replace the springs. Works great.