So I have gone back and read a lot of past threads on this topic before I asked any questions. I rebuilt a brake master cylinder front piston and about to reconnect and bled brake system. I am new to this procedure so want to ask a couple things before I do. This is one a 350

Do I need to adjust the front brake pads with adjusters first? I heard not doing this can make for bleeding brakes and no pressure building useless.

Will pouring fluid in master and squeezing handle prime master?


I have no vacuum pumps , so just son and I adding fluid and pumping handle. Can I open bleed valves until fluid comes out, then start bleeding out air bubbles?

Sorry if questions seem kind of vague but I have an idea of what is to happen but any tricks always welcome. Thanks

Haahahahaaha now the fun starts.
Oddy brakes are a real be-otch to bleed. Basically what I have found is you adjust front brakes and rear caliper so that you can't turn the wheels by hand. Also make sure that the brake handles and cables are set properly so that you can get maximum throw. Behind the steering wheel are small set screws that adjust the brake handle so that it is not to far from steering wheel. Run them out if they are not rusted in to bad. That way you get maximum throw on the handle. Now make sure cables are set on the master cylinder. Fill with fluid. After you squeeze the handle and the guy has closed the bleed screws let the handle "snap" back. The oddy master cylinder traps air and if you let the handle "snap" back it really helps the air bubbles purge. The rear brakes are the hardest because if you look at the brake line it actually has to go up, over and then down again on the frame near the Engine. That makes it a pain to get all the air out. Some of us hang the oddy up high at the back when we do the rear brakes. Have fun.
Edit: oops just saw that I didn't answer all the questions so here we go.
1) Do I need to adjust the front brake pads with adjusters first?
YES
2) Will pouring fluid in master and squeezing handle prime master?
I doubt it
3) Can I open bleed valves until fluid comes out, then start bleeding out air bubbles?
Sure I do that

CAUTION: Don't get ramy on the bleed screws or you will strip them out. They don't have to be tightened up with a 6' fn snipe.
After you are done set your drag on the pads with the adjusters.

Can Oddy, do I leave the front brake pads locked as to where the wheels can't move? Then bleed, then adjust pads off?

And a random thought....front brakes there are two lines, one at each wheel, and one from master cylinder. Where does it split? And do I do both front wheels at same time or do I concentrate on one wheel at a time?

1) Yes. locked. That's how I do it.
2) Line goes to a divider block bolted to the frame (very front left). Do one wheel at a time.

Great thanks!

One thing I am stuck on before the brakes is I had to replace a brake cable for the front brake and the circle that goes into the brake handle I can't not get off. Then stripped the screw top! Yay me. But do the I call them clamps only gonone way entry? The rear brake cable goes into the clamp via the right side of the clamp. It is the same way for the front cable that enters on right side of clamp, but also butts up to the steering wheel so I can not get it out without removing the whole clamp.

Welllll I got no idea what you just said LOL.
I am sure you will figure it out though.