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 Post subject: fl350 project questions
PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 03, 2017 11:34 am
Posts: 11
So, I bought a new(to me obviously) odyssey and have what are probably some dumb questions, so bear with me. I did at least try to read as much on the topics on this forum as possible so as to not recreate threads.


1. On a stock odyssey, the control arms have rubber boots at both ends(or mine appears to) to protect the tie rods, etc. Are these replaceable? I can't seem to find any online? Mine, are cracked and painted on, etc.

2. My plastics are in great shape in the sense that they are pliable, no cracks, or tears. but they are pitted from sun exposure and soft to scratch on top? Has anyone tried a product like white plastidip in this situation? I figure, what can it hurt. If it doesn't work, I'm back to square one fabbing something or buying replacements.

3. The previous owner drilled like 6 1 inch holes in my airbox top? Any guesses what might have been there? Think he was just having trouble getting it to breathe? just want to make sure I'm not missing anything before I replace it and convert it to dual snorkel.

I'm sure I'll have a million more in the coming weeks, but thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 3:36 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
gatormiller20 wrote:
So, I bought a new(to me obviously) odyssey and have what are probably some dumb questions, so bear with me. I did at least try to read as much on the topics on this forum as possible so as to not recreate threads.


1. On a stock odyssey, the control arms have rubber boots at both ends(or mine appears to) to protect the tie rods, etc. Are these replaceable? I can't seem to find any online? Mine, are cracked and painted on, etc.

2. My plastics are in great shape in the sense that they are pliable, no cracks, or tears. but they are pitted from sun exposure and soft to scratch on top? Has anyone tried a product like white plastidip in this situation? I figure, what can it hurt. If it doesn't work, I'm back to square one fabbing something or buying replacements.

3. The previous owner drilled like 6 1 inch holes in my airbox top? Any guesses what might have been there? Think he was just having trouble getting it to breathe? just want to make sure I'm not missing anything before I replace it and convert it to dual snorkel.

I'm sure I'll have a million more in the coming weeks, but thanks in advance.


1) You are not likely to find those around and in good shape
2) I don't know -- we don't run fenders
3) If your compression is low it will have a hard time starting. So may be the guy did it for that reason, or he may have done it thinking it will give him more performance.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
By the way welcome to the site.
There are no dumb questions here. It's only dumb if you don't ask.

The easiest way to find something is to use the search box above. To use it effectively you type ONE word only in it. Hit enter. When the list comes up there will be another search box on the right that says "search threads". Type ONE word only in this box and hit enter. Do this as many times as necessary to narrow down your search. If you don't do it this way you will get to many hits and will never find what you are looking for. ONE word only at a time is the best way.
Sometimes the fastest way is just to start another thread and ask.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Here is a list of things to check. A lot of this is a must check or you will blow an Engine.
Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or just purchased one.
1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet at least the minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure and vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.


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PostPosted: Wed May 03, 2017 9:27 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
If you don't want to run or make fenders you can do what I did. See pic. You don't need fenders.
If your machine is still air cooled don't take the skirting all the way back.
Pics of your machine will help us help you.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 10:18 am 
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Joined: Wed May 03, 2017 11:34 am
Posts: 11
Thanks guys. Ill post pics tonight.

I started working through the list last night. Finding the halfass crap the other owner did.

The good:
Compression
Front shocks
Starter
Fuel pump
Fuel tank is clean

The bad:
Rear shocks are toast
Front wheels appear to have been dropped from a 5 story building
Master cylinder is missing a sight lens
Carb needs rebuilt. Float is sticking
Fuel lines are shot. And routed everywhere
The jackwagon painted everything.
Tie rods have a little play.(how much is too much)
Previous owner apparently thought zip ties were a replacement to hose clamps


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Forgot to add one thing to the list.
Your need to make a pair of shock savers as well. If you blow a u-joint the wheel swings outward and tears the shock apart. You must have the correct length of chain so you don't get any bind. Pic below.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 12:18 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
gatormiller20 wrote:
Thanks guys. Ill post pics tonight.

I started working through the list last night. Finding the halfass crap the other owner did.

The good:
Compression
Front shocks
Starter
Fuel pump
Fuel tank is clean

The bad:
Rear shocks are toast
Front wheels appear to have been dropped from a 5 story building
Master cylinder is missing a sight lens
Carb needs rebuilt. Float is sticking
Fuel lines are shot. And routed everywhere
The jackwagon painted everything.
Tie rods have a little play.(how much is too much)
Previous owner apparently thought zip ties were a replacement to hose clamps


1) Rear shocks:
You can rebuild the rear shocks but I have spotty results. They still ended up leaking a bit. There is no drop in replacement except those expensive ones like works shocks. You must get the length correct or you get u-joint bind and blow the axel in short order. Max length is 15.25". There are many models that have a shock that is just a 1/4" longer but it will bind the joints. I think you can run these with modifications (so that you don't have to run the wheel at a goofy angle) but I have not done it, so I don't want to steer you in the wrong direction.
2) Wheels: ITP
3) Master cylinder sight glass: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=5394&hilit=glass+brake+master
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16775&hilit=glass+brake+master
4) Tie rod ends: You don't want any play if you can help it. Some are very tough to find. Especially the small LH thread. The bigger ones some inch size match. You have to hunt around. Others can chime in here.

Below is what happens when you lose one.


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 12:46 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
One more thing.
The stock Honda rear springs are total crap. Honda really made a mistake on these. There is virtually no rear suspension give. You need to run a 155lb spring approx if you are going to get any suspension movement at all. That's what my brothers machine has on it. We weigh 130lbs, so we are on the pip squeak scale size. You fluffier size chimps may need a bit more.
I am sure you are throwing your hands in the air right about now but I will supply you with the solutions to the FL350's problems (that I know of) and I will post all of it's weaknesses for you. You decide what you want to do ----- or not. I learned the expensive way so you don't have too.

Every man for himself
I'm behind you all the way sir
Advance to the rear


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 12:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
check your messages


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PostPosted: Thu May 04, 2017 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
A lot of really good info in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold&start=25


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PostPosted: Sun May 07, 2017 9:08 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 03, 2017 11:34 am
Posts: 11
Image

Image

This was last week when i picked her up. Been going through her for a few days now. Trying to figure out 32 years of shadetree mechanic work.


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