So I tried to be as informed as possible before I post on here with all you smart guys! So my steering to left is HORRIBLE, turning right is way better and on par with the 15' radius I read about for odysseys. I snapped a few pics of steering wheel straight so you can see camber and toe in/out. I really don't know much about this topic, so any guidance as usual will be much accepted! Added back view for any opinions on back tire stance issues.

Thanks Michael

Re-posted your pics straight

Based on what I see there:
1) Your front right tire has a bad camber. That tells me that your top J-arm bushings are probably gone. Could also be a bent spindle.
2) The pic of the rear of your buggy seems to show a possible bent chassis but I don't know if it is the angle of the pic.
3) The right rear tire has camber but that is normal for these buggies because if you jump on the back end everything usually squares up, so not likely any issue here.
4) Also based on the pics you appear to be running the stock rims. The oddy turns better with wider offset front rims and the stock rear rims. This makes the chassis a bit more square which seems to help it turn. That's what we have found anyway, but it could be our driving style.
We also run 1" toe out at the front of our buggies.

Thanks Can Oddy for the pic adjust! Not quite sure I know how to adjust yet. I will look up the info for the top J arm bushing. Where do I find that info in the service manual? And also where do info about setting or correcting the toe?

Around my property I have no problem making most turns righty, just have to plan ahead and known my route or gas it to drift back end around.

And I do have the original gold colored rims on oddy.

It's in section 10 of the manual.
Section 10-14 shows the J-arm bushing measurement limits and replacement. I think speedchaser was making bushings for sale at one time. I make my own on my lathe out of UHMW.
Setting your toe adjustment. You do this by loosening the nuts on the steering rods to the wheel and turning the rod. One nut is a left hand thread and one nut is a right hand thread on each rod. First you need to find the center of the buggy at the front and make a mark with a pencil. That will be a reference mark for later. What you do is take two tape measurements from the center of the front tires. One at the back and one at the front. What is the difference ?? If the measurement is narrower at the back than the front then you have toe out. Once you have 1" toe out then measure from the center of each tire to your pencil mark. Are they same ?? If not then you have one wheel pointing out more than the other. Re-do it again until you have it right.

Looking again at the front wheel just screams the J-arm bushing is badly worn.

You also have no shock savers on the rear of that machine and if you blow a u-joint it will twist your shock into a pretzel. Also ditch those rear springs as you currently will have no suspension travel with the stock springs and will hurt your back. We run about 155LB springs right now. The stock ones are about 220LB and WAY TO STIFF.

fuesselfc

Ok First up

With the front end looking at the pic the J arms look OK but there maybe some wear.
Jack up the front and lift the wheel up and down and look at for movement.
Take close attention to the wheel bearings first then look at the top and bottoms J arms
were they bolt to the on to the frame.
Yes you can do a bush replacement SEE member Speedchaser
He makes a nice bush replacement kit and a nice shim kit
Not sure if he still does then even a shim set might solve problem

Second which will make a big difference if there not right

The Tie RODs maybe you or the previous owners have had the Tie rods off
and may of not been refit correctly.

Make Sure the Left tie rod sits in the BOTTOM or the steering center or yoke and the rod sits
on TOP of the left steering Knuckle

Make sure the Right tie rod sits in the TOP of the steering center or yoke and then rod sits
on BOTTOM of the right steering Knuckle

see pic



I found that my steering was not flash turning left was cr@p and after reading and
checking I found the tie rods were WRONG and Yes it made a big difference
see pic attached check it first before doing the toe in/out

Third: Right rear wheel the top Adjuster need adjustment see attached pic
and the frame looks ok. I would measure the left side center to center on the mounting bolts and
mirror to the right.

NOTE This is What I have done.
I went and took the camber out at the top by a extra 2 to 3mm to help stop
the uni Joints bind at full compression.

Hope that helps

wyeeoddy

I havent heard of shock savers. where exactly would i find them? also don't know anything about shocks, so can you guide me to wear to find some to look up? Thanks again for the help!

I havent heard of shock savers. where exactly would i find them? also don't know anything about shocks, so can you guide me to wear to find some to look up? Thanks again for the help!

So much good info weeoddy!! Thanks!

These are the ones I made for our machines. The chain must be the correct length or you will get binding. I forget the correct length right now but there is a thread on it. You can check if correct length by removing shock and cycle wheel up and down by hand after you have the chain on. This is one of the last mods you make after you fix other stuff like the vent mod.
Springs: you can get them online. Eibach makes good springs. https://www.kartek.com/parts-categories ... -tall.html

A lot of other really good info here along with part numbers: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold

Here is the list:
Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. Use the search box above.
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.

Is anything bent on your front end? Upper and/or lower spindles? Steering knuckle? Or tie rod?


My buggy has a similar camber to yours on the front. But my bushings appear to be OK, I believe the spindle is slightly bent backwards. The tie rod was bent on that side, and the steering knuckle "stop" was bent. This tells me mine had a serious impact on that tire.

Here is the thread on the chain length: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain

Not sure what you're running - oddy or pilot but check this out. May help

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17023

Thanks for the link. That's how mine looks too. I'll prob grab a new spindle and try that out.

OH, and mine is on an Oddy. Thanks again

Canadian oddy

I know this is off topic
in pic 20150205_212353.jpg which shows the back of your oddy.

I see you have attached the fuel supply to the drain plug

1./ NO reserve
2./ Very exposed
3./ Break the nipple off and your pushing it home

Good eye.
Yes sir to all of your points but with explanation:
1) Where we ride if you are on the reserve your not getting home anyways
2) Yes a bit exposed but nipple is just poking out of the skid shield
3) Correct but we never ride alone -- way to dangerous if you need a helicopter ride to the hospital

Basically both tanks had issues when I bought the machines. Both tanks had plugged or broken off screens inside. One tank had the main line broke off inside the tank WTF how did the yoyo do that ??
So the easiest solution for me was to tap the drain plug. I welded a nipple onto the screw in part so that the pickup was just off the bottom about 3/16". With regards to snapping off a nipple that is a concern but the tank is high up with a skid shield and most of the nipple is protected. We take our chances but have not had an issue yet and have had some horrendous crashes and mechanical failures.