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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 12:40 pm 
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Posts: 945
Location: Rhode Island
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Avgas ---------------------------------------------------------------------- wonder how many minutes it will take before someone takes a shot at me for saying it ------------------------------------------------- again


What is avgas anyways? I only use 91 octane on all my toys.



It is aviation gasoline used for aircraft. It is safer to use higher octane on these engines even if the 91 works on the other toys.

Nice FL350 by the way! :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 1:30 pm 
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Posts: 313
Location: Wilmington NC
CurtisR401 wrote:
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Avgas ---------------------------------------------------------------------- wonder how many minutes it will take before someone takes a shot at me for saying it ------------------------------------------------- again


What is avgas anyways? I only use 91 octane on all my toys.



It is aviation gasoline used for aircraft. It is safer to use higher octane on these engines even if the 91 works on the other toys.

Nice FL350 by the way! :-)


I agree with both of these statements - Nice score! And use the AV gas. It's more expensive than 91 but a lot cheaper than a top end rebuild.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 2:54 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
New To Odesseys wrote:
Did you take that bolt out? If not that could be a problem... the wire end broke off on my oddy and it wouldn't start.
Although mine was from the negative terminal from the battery. I cant see it in this case. You did say you were going to go through the wiring, but i figured it can't hurt to ask.


Another good eye.
That little jumper wire is what makes the ground for the frame. The main wire from battery goes to the Engine, but your Engine has rubber mounts. So no real ground to the frame unless this wire is hooked up.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 6:36 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:31 pm
Posts: 229
Location: San Diego, California
New To Odesseys wrote:
Did you take that bolt out? If not that could be a problem... the wire end broke off on my oddy and it wouldn't start.
Although mine was from the negative terminal from the battery. I cant see it in this case. You did say you were going to go through the wiring, but i figured it can't hurt to ask.


Ha ha, yeah I did. This was way after I moved on to other things. You do got a good eye. Those grounds will get put back once I put the DG exhaust back on. I'm currently removing parts that need repainting since they are rusting.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 6:37 pm 
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Posts: 229
Location: San Diego, California
CurtisR401 wrote:
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Avgas ---------------------------------------------------------------------- wonder how many minutes it will take before someone takes a shot at me for saying it ------------------------------------------------- again


What is avgas anyways? I only use 91 octane on all my toys.



It is aviation gasoline used for aircraft. It is safer to use higher octane on these engines even if the 91 works on the other toys.

Nice FL350 by the way! :-)


Much thanks for the explanation and comment :-)


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 6:47 pm 
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Posts: 229
Location: San Diego, California
Started removing bit n pieces in preparation for my rebuilding parts plus doing some painting of the rusty parts. Took the starter apart just to see why it's not working and I am assuming those 3 wires should be hooked up to something? Starter rebuild kit should be here by the weekend.

Also tried to remove the Salsbury Clutch and Driven Pulley without luck. Saw some threads on making my own puller, not sure how this will work with the Engine in and the frame being in the way.

Always a joy to work on 80's Honda ATV's...

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:09 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Holy crap how did you get that starter outa there ?? I have never done that because I thought it could not be done without removing the clutch first. Man that starter looks bad. You got no brushes left, just the wires LOL.
Pulling the clutch is easier if the Engine is out. You need a pusher rod and a pusher bolt. The pusher rod must be turned down or ground down so that it fits inside the crank hole without touching the threads in there. DON'T damage the crank threads. Below are pics of the pusher. First pic is for the 94c clutch and the second is the one for the Salsbury. It is 2" shorter than comet pusher and the bolt is a different size as well. You won't be able to just push it off. You tighten the pusher bolt and smack with a hammer - tighten - smack - tighten - smack. You get the idea. It will make a real loud pop and you will think you busted something but you didn't.
I also see rusty splined shaft for the drive shafts. This is a no no. Grease it up well when you put it together.

On a side note here, how come you disappeared for a couple of years and then came back ??
You were gone in 2012 and came back 2017.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:20 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
Holy crap how did you get that starter outa there ?? I have never done that because I thought it could not be done without removing the clutch first. Man that starter looks bad. You got no brushes left, just the wires LOL.
Pulling the clutch is easier if the Engine is out. You need a pusher rod and a pusher bolt. The pusher rod must be turned down or ground down so that it fits inside the crank hole without touching the threads in there. DON'T damage the crank threads. Below are pics of the pusher. First pic is for the 94c clutch and the second is the one for the Salsbury. It is 2" shorter than comet pusher and the bolt is a different size as well. You won't be able to just push it off. You tighten the pusher bolt and smack with a hammer - tighten - smack - tighten - smack. You get the idea. It will make a real loud pop and you will think you busted something but you didn't.
I also see rusty splined shaft for the drive shafts. This is a no no. Grease it up well when you put it together.

On a side note here, how come you disappeared for a couple of years and then came back ??
You were gone in 2012 and came back 2017.


Sure wish they sold those pusher rod and bolt. I also didn't think I could remove the starter without removing at least the driven pulley but I was able to get it out with ease. The pics show the exact things that must be removed and loosened. I tried all sorts of way to try and get that brake rotor off but the driven was in the way.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:24 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Was also going to ask how those wrist straps work?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:27 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
MPDano wrote:
Was also going to ask how those wrist straps work?


Not sure what you are asking here.
You mean why do you need them ?? or how do you wear them ??


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 7:30 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Holy crap how did you get that starter outa there ?? I have never done that because I thought it could not be done without removing the clutch first. Man that starter looks bad. You got no brushes left, just the wires LOL.
Pulling the clutch is easier if the Engine is out. You need a pusher rod and a pusher bolt. The pusher rod must be turned down or ground down so that it fits inside the crank hole without touching the threads in there. DON'T damage the crank threads. Below are pics of the pusher. First pic is for the 94c clutch and the second is the one for the Salsbury. It is 2" shorter than comet pusher and the bolt is a different size as well. You won't be able to just push it off. You tighten the pusher bolt and smack with a hammer - tighten - smack - tighten - smack. You get the idea. It will make a real loud pop and you will think you busted something but you didn't.
I also see rusty splined shaft for the drive shafts. This is a no no. Grease it up well when you put it together.

On a side note here, how come you disappeared for a couple of years and then came back ??
You were gone in 2012 and came back 2017.


Sure wish they sold those pusher rod and bolt. I also didn't think I could remove the starter without removing at least the driven pulley but I was able to get it out with ease. The pics show the exact things that must be removed and loosened. I tried all sorts of way to try and get that brake rotor off but the driven was in the way.


Go to your local machine shop and get some 1/2" cold rolled and grind down the end. While you are there get a bolt. What's the issue ??


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:16 pm 
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Posts: 229
Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
MPDano wrote:
Was also going to ask how those wrist straps work?


Not sure what you are asking here.
You mean why do you need them ?? or how do you wear them ??


Yes, how do you wear them?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:21 pm 
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Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Units are mounted on the steering wheel and then you just slip your hands through the loops from the bottom, and reach up to grab the wheel.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:22 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 19, 2016 12:54 pm
Posts: 135
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
MPDano wrote:
Was also going to ask how those wrist straps work?


Not sure what you are asking here.
You mean why do you need them ?? or how do you wear them ??


Yes, how do you wear them?


Put your hands through the loops then hold on to the wheel. Like you would normally.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 8:34 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Thanks guys. I visually see different ways. Is there an actual picture somewhere where someone is using them?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 11:04 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 10, 2012 10:21 am
Posts: 2681
Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
MPDano wrote:
Thanks guys. I visually see different ways. Is there an actual picture somewhere where someone is using them?


Borrowed this from B'youb Tube...
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Basically the restraints prevent your gut reaction of putting your "hands up don't shoot" move on the cage during a roll or wreck. Some rope burn on your wrist is a lot better than a broken hand/arm or dismemberment.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 3:05 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I was glad I was wearing them when I had my big crash.
You will also find out in a big crash that the oddy has a weak spot in the design.
You will actually hit your head on the ground at certain angles in a crash. Your body tries to go out the area where you climb into the oddy. This will cause your head to hit the dirt. It's even worse when the top roll cage crushes a bit. You are very vulnerable so you better be wearing a helmet. Yes my belts were tight but they do loosen a bit as you ride. I find myself pulling on the straps as I ride, just like I did in my race car. Anyways, the cage on an oddy is angled like a pyramid. It's narrower at the top and any crush in the cage leaves you very exposed.
Another weak spot in the design that can not be engineered out is the fact that you sit very low and can not see any holes coming up. That's what happened to me. I was going crazy on a road I never driven before. Moral of the story -- you better know the terrain before you go crazy, and even then a mechanical malfunction can do you in.

Every man for himself.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 3:49 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:31 pm
Posts: 229
Location: San Diego, California
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
MPDano wrote:
Thanks guys. I visually see different ways. Is there an actual picture somewhere where someone is using them?


Borrowed this from B'youb Tube...
Attachment:
maxresdefault.jpg


Basically the restraints prevent your gut reaction of putting your "hands up don't shoot" move on the cage during a roll or wreck. Some rope burn on your wrist is a lot better than a broken hand/arm or dismemberment.


Perfect, thanks. Nice to have a visualization in a form of a picture.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 1:31 pm 
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Joined: Wed Mar 28, 2012 3:31 pm
Posts: 229
Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one. 14) Must build shock savers. Use the search box above. 15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... t=danifold

And here: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... =5&t=17468


Ok, putting parts back together after my starter rebuild. According to #2, either I fill to low oil mark or do the vent mod. Also, transmission, fill with 2 quarts. Going to use 10w40 oil for both Engine and transmission.

Normal 4 stroke motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) oil, correct? We don't need motorcycle oil since we don't use wet clutches, correct?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 1:58 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Don't be a cheap azz.
You can't get parts for the transmission.
I use Honda HP4 synthetic 10/40 oil.
Put two of these in the trans.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:21 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
Don't be a cheap azz.
You can't get parts for the transmission.
I use Honda HP4 synthetic 10/40 oil.
Put two of these in the trans.


Ok, but what about the Engine?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:28 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Don't be a cheap azz.
You can't get parts for the transmission.
I use Honda HP4 synthetic 10/40 oil.
Put two of these in the trans.


Ok, but what about the Engine?


Same oil


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:43 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Don't be a cheap azz.
You can't get parts for the transmission.
I use Honda HP4 synthetic 10/40 oil.
Put two of these in the trans.


Ok, but what about the Engine?


Same oil


This is Semi Syn, right?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:48 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
MPDano wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
Don't be a cheap azz.
You can't get parts for the transmission.
I use Honda HP4 synthetic 10/40 oil.
Put two of these in the trans.


Ok, but what about the Engine?


Same oil


This is Semi Syn, right?


Not really sure right now. But in any case, this stuff works great.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 3:57 pm 
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Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
Do the vent mod and fill the balancer cavity until registers at the full mark. Although lowering the level of the oil in the balancer cavity slows down the transfer of oil into the stator area it doesn't stop it completely. The lowering of the oil level by the engineers at Honda was the only solution they had at the time.

Rand


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