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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:34 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Randman wrote:
Do the vent mod and fill the balancer cavity until registers at the full mark. Although lowering the level of the oil in the balancer cavity slows down the transfer of oil into the stator area it doesn't stop it completely. The lowering of the oil level by the engineers at Honda was the only solution they had at the time.

Rand


I second Randman's comment.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:54 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Got a missing line at a T I need help figuring out where it goes.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 5:58 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Looks like it's a breather open to atmosphere per manual

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 6:08 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Is there a direct link to the vent mod? Searching just gives me a bunch or questions about ti.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:18 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Also, about to put gas in the tank after draining it and painting. Sticker says 20:1, I used 32:1 in my FL250 I used to have without issues.

I already pre-mixed 2.5 gallons with some 2 stroke oil. Should I add another 1.5 gallons of gas to it (32:1) or go with the 20:1?? What say the FL350 experts?


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 8:45 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
That "T" don't need to be there. It's just a vent for that side of the case which is actually ported over to the counter balancer. That's why you do the vent mod, so it don't fill up the starter that is on this side, with oil.
There is a link on the first page of this thread that I posted in the things to do list. In that link is comments and pics of the vent mod.
The sticker on the tank that says 20/1 oil was for way back in the day. Todays oils are different. Your 32/1 or 35/1 is good enough for air cooled Engine. Use a good oil, not some chainsaw crap.

You better be running some good high octane gas. You've been warned.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 9:59 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
That "T" don't need to be there. It's just a vent for that side of the case which is actually ported over to the counter balancer. That's why you do the vent mod, so it don't fill up the starter that is on this side, with oil.
There is a link on the first page of this thread that I posted in the things to do list. In that link is comments and pics of the vent mod.
The sticker on the tank that says 20/1 oil was for way back in the day. Todays oils are different. Your 32/1 or 35/1 is good enough for air cooled Engine. Use a good oil, not some chainsaw crap.

You better be running some good high octane gas. You've been warned.


Ha ha, yeah. All my toys get 91 octane. I'll add 1.5 gallons to my pre-mix to make 32:1. The guy at the motorcycle shop I go to said the same thing about today's pre-mix oils are better and different than those of the 1980's.

I'll look again at your initial comments, I missed the link.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 11:29 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Starter rebuilt and reinstalled. Removed rust and painted a bunch of parts and reinstalled.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 05, 2017 11:35 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Both sight glass on master cylinder disintegrated. Got a couple on order. New Battery installed and painted gas tank reinstalled. New OEM fuel filter installed as well as fuel lines. Rebuilt the fuel pump and installed as well. R&R the rear brake caliper and reinstall.

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:41 am 
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That's a good start but I still see some things.
1) no shock savers as of yet -- that can wait for now -- viewtopic.php?f=2&t=17542
2) stock springs -- very very stiff
3) original Honda vacuum line to pump -- 32yrs old now
4) some of the hose clamps are suspect -- eg: the one from the T to the carb
5) stock fuel pump -- did it pass the flow test ??
6) no rubber boot over throttle cable on top of the carb -- potential small air leak
7) Ha ha, yeah. All my toys get 91 octane. -- my personal bias says better fuel
8) vent mod when time permits but this will mean yanking the Engine


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 12:53 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
This may be late in the day but I can't find where you posted any compression test results.
What's the compression ??


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:42 am 
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Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
That's a good start but I still see some things.
1) no shock savers as of yet -- that can wait for now -- http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... =2&t=17542
2) stock springs -- very very stiff
3) original Honda vacuum line to pump -- 32yrs old now
4) some of the hose clamps are suspect -- eg: the one from the T to the carb
5) stock fuel pump -- did it pass the flow test ??
6) no rubber boot over throttle cable on top of the carb -- potential small air leak
7) Ha ha, yeah. All my toys get 91 octane. -- my personal bias says better fuel
8) vent mod when time permits but this will mean yanking the Engine


Yeah, gonna change out the clamp on the carb, fit a bit loose. Can't get CVT off, so can't get to the clamp to replace that hose. I'll have to address that later.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 1:44 am 
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Location: San Diego, California
canadian oddy wrote:
This may be late in the day but I can't find where you posted any compression test results.
What's the compression ??


I couldn't get a good reading as my starter died, so I moved on. I know I should have used the pull start but I moved on with the disassembly before doing that. Tomorrow I am going to do all that and see if it starts.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:20 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Well, she runs and runs strong. Problem is I am not getting fuel. Line is clear and I tried to prime it. I can see the pulses as I put some clear fuel line to verify flow. Is there a trick to priming these?

Starting to second guess my fuel pump rebuild job.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 6:23 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
MPDano wrote:
Well, she runs and runs strong. Problem is I am not getting fuel. Line is clear and I tried to prime it. I can see the pulses as I put some clear fuel line to verify flow. Is there a trick to priming these?

Starting to second guess my fuel pump rebuild job.


They don't need to be primed.
You have all the info you need to get it to run reliably.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 8:12 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Ok, figured it out. I did go back and R&R the pump again. It came back to me in order to prime these Odysseys, you give a put some pressure in the tank thru the carb fuel line, pinch it and reconnect. This fills the lines and now she starts and runs. Lotta spooge coming out the exhuast. Maybe need to lean it up a little bit on the carb?

Anyways, master cylinder is down so used my parking brake to do some forward/reverse testing. I did notice some grinding trying to get into forward or reverse. Either I am idling to high or my belt is grabbing too soon.

Here's a video of her running today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m5H0rGH8k6w


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 9:26 pm 
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Location: East Peoria IL
What's the wobble in the Engine at 1:20? Looks like you either have bad Engine mounts or you have a bent crankshaft. You need to figure out what is causing the wobble. I would start by check the runout of the crank.

Engine sounds pretty good. You have done a lot of work. Keep it up!


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 06, 2017 10:00 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
rmesser wrote:
What's the wobble in the Engine at 1:20? Looks like you either have bad Engine mounts or you have a bent crankshaft. You need to figure out what is causing the wobble. I would start by check the runout of the crank.

Engine sounds pretty good. You have done a lot of work. Keep it up!


It's the camera, no wobble. You can see it do the same thing in other parts of the video. Thanks for the compliment. I have so much more to do, just beat right now.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 3:36 am 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
When you give it throttle I can see the air filter boot on the carb jumping around. If the mounts are in fact worn and the Engine moving it will throw off drive belt alignment.
I'm not saying the mounts are bad. You are there looking at them and must make that decision you're self.
It's always nice to fire off an Engine after it has been sitting for a while


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:38 am 
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Location: NW Ohio / SE Michigan
The camera isn't fast enough to record the vibrations, so it will just look like a blur. I'd still check into things.

Seems to run good despite the spooge. Let it run like that a little bit and maybe it'll clear up. Sometimes takes a bit of time for carb changes to show up. Throttle hang seems okay (no run-away rpm), so no major air leak. You won't know if you have a minor air leak until you start jetting and/or until you have an EGT.

What oil are you using anyways? Ratio?


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 10:57 am 
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Location: San Diego, California
DMoneyAllstar wrote:
The camera isn't fast enough to record the vibrations, so it will just look like a blur. I'd still check into things.

Seems to run good despite the spooge. Let it run like that a little bit and maybe it'll clear up. Sometimes takes a bit of time for carb changes to show up. Throttle hang seems okay (no run-away rpm), so no major air leak. You won't know if you have a minor air leak until you start jetting and/or until you have an EGT.

What oil are you using anyways? Ratio?


I use Maxima 2 stroke oils for all my 2 stroke toys except my jet ski gets yamalube. I am running 32:1 right now as per suggestions.

It was really spooging at first start up as well as clouding up my whole backyard. Video shown is it clearing up a bit. I remember my FL250 I used to have did the same thing.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 07, 2017 9:59 pm 
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Location: San Diego, California
Question. Does your driven pulley turn while idling?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 2:22 am 
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Posts: 4678
Location: Carson City NV
MPDano wrote:
Question. Does your driven pulley turn while idling?


Yes it will turn while idling if you are in neutral.

Warning. Don't let you Ody idle for long periods of time in neutral. This will case wear on the AB gear because it doesn't get lubricated unless the gears within transmission are actually turning.

Rand


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 8:42 am 
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Location: San Diego, California
Randman wrote:
MPDano wrote:
Question. Does your driven pulley turn while idling?


Yes it will turn while idling if you are in neutral.

Warning. Don't let you Ody idle for long periods of time in neutral. This will case wear on the AB gear because it doesn't get lubricated unless the gears within transmission are actually turning.

Rand


Thanks for that. Is it due to too high of an idle that it grinds going into forward or reverse?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2017 12:09 pm 
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Location: Carson City NV
Yes.

You want to get you idle as low as possible without the Ody stalling. There are those of us who have their reverse limiter and start only in neutral disabled because of this.

Rand


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