What is avgas anyways? I only use 91 octane on all my toys.

It is aviation gasoline used for aircraft. It is safer to use higher octane on these engines even if the 91 works on the other toys.

Nice FL350 by the way!

Did you take that bolt out? If not that could be a problem... the wire end broke off on my oddy and it wouldn't start.
Although mine was from the negative terminal from the battery. I cant see it in this case. You did say you were going to go through the wiring, but i figured it can't hurt to ask.

Did you take that bolt out? If not that could be a problem... the wire end broke off on my oddy and it wouldn't start.
Although mine was from the negative terminal from the battery. I cant see it in this case. You did say you were going to go through the wiring, but i figured it can't hurt to ask.

It is aviation gasoline used for aircraft. It is safer to use higher octane on these engines even if the 91 works on the other toys.

Nice FL350 by the way!

Holy crap how did you get that starter outa there ?? I have never done that because I thought it could not be done without removing the clutch first. Man that starter looks bad. You got no brushes left, just the wires LOL.
Pulling the clutch is easier if the Engine is out. You need a pusher rod and a pusher bolt. The pusher rod must be turned down or ground down so that it fits inside the crank hole without touching the threads in there. DON'T damage the crank threads. Below are pics of the pusher. First pic is for the 94c clutch and the second is the one for the Salsbury. It is 2" shorter than comet pusher and the bolt is a different size as well. You won't be able to just push it off. You tighten the pusher bolt and smack with a hammer - tighten - smack - tighten - smack. You get the idea. It will make a real loud pop and you will think you busted something but you didn't.
I also see rusty splined shaft for the drive shafts. This is a no no. Grease it up well when you put it together.

On a side note here, how come you disappeared for a couple of years and then came back ??
You were gone in 2012 and came back 2017.

Was also going to ask how those wrist straps work?

Sure wish they sold those pusher rod and bolt. I also didn't think I could remove the starter without removing at least the driven pulley but I was able to get it out with ease. The pics show the exact things that must be removed and loosened. I tried all sorts of way to try and get that brake rotor off but the driven was in the way.

Not sure what you are asking here.
You mean why do you need them ?? or how do you wear them ??

Yes, how do you wear them?

Thanks guys. I visually see different ways. Is there an actual picture somewhere where someone is using them?

Borrowed this from B'youb Tube...


Basically the restraints prevent your gut reaction of putting your "hands up don't shoot" move on the cage during a roll or wreck. Some rope burn on your wrist is a lot better than a broken hand/arm or dismemberment.

Here is my list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one.

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for half hour minimum.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. Both my machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one. 14) Must build shock savers. Use the search box above. 15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff.
16) Some good info here: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... t=danifold

And here: http://www.pilotodyssey.com/PO/viewtopi ... =5&t=17468

Don't be a cheap azz.
You can't get parts for the transmission.
I use Honda HP4 synthetic 10/40 oil.
Put two of these in the trans.

Ok, but what about the Engine?

Same oil

This is Semi Syn, right?