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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 2:51 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Mounted my exhaust manifold , had to cut my new studs down as they were a little long.
Test fitted the turbo and seems I measured perfect for the v band clamps.
I found a banjo fitting in town but will need to make the hole smaller as u only want so much oil going to the turbo. Too much and it will smoke. I am still gonna look for my original one. I can see it in my hands and just don't know where I put it.
Time to fabricate a oil drain for the turbo but that will be tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:45 pm
Posts: 441
Location: South-Central Pennsylvania
Ha! Edd one of my many projects here is an old VW Westfalia Camper Van. I spent hours trying to figure out how to get the drive pin of the handle (recently back from powder coating) back into the latch hole. Long = short is that I sent the wrong handle to the powder coaters. The correct one was in top of my toolbox where I'd be sure not to mix them up. ... I understand.

Will your turbo intake plumbing be all custom or are you able to use pre manufactured components? Will it require support bracketry from the Engine some way? Everything looks great.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 8:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
I guess we all do that kind of stuff. All of my piping is custom made because I'm cheap. Off the shelf would work for the most part. I use the stock Chevy sprint intercooler which is mounted under the lt side panel where air in the vent passes over it.
Once I have it all mounted and plumbed I will make a support bracket to support it. Since the v band flanges shifted everything a little I can't use the support bracket I had previously made.
Ill be sure to post more pics as I move along.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2017 9:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
It's all a balancing act with the turbo plumbing. Shorter piping routs produce faster "spool up" this refers to how soon the turbo is able to produce power in the rpm band. On a buggy u want it as soon as possible so a small turbo with short piping is best but we need to cool the air to produce the most power so we have to have an inter cooler. I have looked at larger ones that will fit where I now have it mounted and these would lower my air temp more but would make for more piping distance the air would have to travel through making my power come on a little latter.
One other thing I have not gotten to yet is meth injection. Introducing a fine spray of windshield washer fluid right before the throttle body cools the intake charge and produces the kick of nitrous they say it hits like an after burner.
Just some food for thought.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 10:41 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Fried my welder. A relay went out on the circuit board and I replaced it and left one wire not attached and it found a good ground.
I have a couple stick welders but I need more of a fine weld for what I'm doing now.
Just frustrating. So I'm on hold for now.
Ugh


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 7:08 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
So I ended up just being pissed off all day about my welder and accomplished nothing.
Well this morning I busted out the old reliable arc welder and some smaller rods and was able to move forward. I fabricated my oil drain which came out nice. By nice I mean my welds cleaned up nice with a grinder.
I also had to modify the mounting bracket for the waste gate actuator as I had to reclock the turbo. This required some cutting and welding.
Anyway the turbo is ready to mount up tomorrow. Once it's mounted I will start on the support bracket. Just for curiosity sake I weighed the turbo with cooling and oil line and it weighs 13lbs 10ozs. My guess was about 15lbs.
I found my oil line banjo bolt. Yahoo. It got thrown in my tool box that's full of fittings. Was hunting for a fitting for my oil line and there it was.
UPDATE ::: Of course it was the wrong bolt. I ended up filling my replacement bolt with solder and drilling the appropriate size hole in it.

So after the bracket I can move on to the exhaust pipe.

After I find the dead squirrel that's under the hood of my truck. Ohh it stinks.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
You can see the oil drain in the third picture


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 2:35 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Can't find the dead squrill. Guess it will stop stinking eventually.
Got the turbo mounted. The exhaust cut and fitted and made a support bracket for the turbo. The bracket may not be pretty but it's strong. The top bar is 3/8ths thick. I welded a tab to the turbo to bolt the bracket to.
Gonna get my buddy to weld the v band flange on my pipe for me. I just tack welded it so I could check the fit.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
So what do I have left to do?
Buy some heater hose to hook up my cooling lines on the turbo as well as a section for my oil drain.
Install distributer cap and spark plug wires.
Install my radiator and fan.
Run the piping for the turbo.
Drain my fuel tank and flush my fuel lines as well as install a new fuel filter.
Clean up and paint my turbo support bracket.
Install my alternator drive belt
And last but not least go over everything twice if not three times. I think I've demonstrated my lack of focus here recently.
Easy pesy


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 5:57 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Dropped off my exhaust to be welded to the flange , included the turbo so the flange can be attached while welding to help it not distorte,,,once I get it back I can install my piping and cooling system,that's all I have left to do. Installing the turbo is way easier with the radiator out. I Cleaned up and painted my turbo support bracket ,gonna drain and flush out my fuel system today and clean up my blow off valve.
Chugging along


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 3:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Got my exhaust back already. He welded the flange on the inside and out side. He even fixed my crapy weld on my support bracket mount.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Turbo and exhaust are mounted. I used a piece of G10 plastic ( it's stronger and lighter then carbon fiber I've been told) as an isolator between my turbo and my support brace sandwiched in between the two.
Started raining so I'll be back at it tomorrow,feel like I may be starting it up pretty soon.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 7:39 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:45 pm
Posts: 441
Location: South-Central Pennsylvania
Edd does your turbo oil feed come from the oil pressure sender port? Curious how you got that plumbed. Have you done any update to the oil pump itself?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 8:27 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
It's a factory turbo Engine so there is a port for the oil feed. But you can feed a turbo off of the oil pressure port if adding a turbo to a non turbo Engine. A return would need to be plumbed into the oil pan if adding a turbo to a non turbo Engine.

My oil pump is just the factory pump. Not many options for me.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Turbo has cooling and oil lines hooked up.cleaned and ran most of my piping and hooked up my boost controller solenoid. Also mounted my mass air flow sensor. Installed my oxygen sensor and wideband sensor. Always use anti seize with o2 sensors. I had one seize on me before and was a job to remove,had to be drilled out.
So I'm down to spark plug wires,I have to fix two because I pulled the ends off.
Two intake pipes
Radiator and fan
Fuel fitter
Blow off valve
And air filter.

Started raining again so I'm done for today


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 21, 2017 4:15 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Just a few pics. Started raining before I could get more recent ones


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 11:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Done.
With the exception of a few wire ties and antifreeze it's ready to start.
Gonna run to town and get antifreeze and give it a try.
Bi£ch better run. Lol.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 1:47 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
No go. Long story short I have to diaseemble my distributer and reclock it.
Stay tuned


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
So I recocked the distributer. MiNE has always had a odd firing order on the distributer cap. Where everyone else's 1 wire is my 3 wire is. So I thought when I reassembled it I fixed what ever caused that. Well that made no difference. So I took the distributer apart again and set it to my original position. Now I pulled the timing cover to double check my timing belt. Everything looked good.
Next step is to pull my valve cover to check my valve timing. This is a pain because I have to pull the radiator to remove my valve cover.

So I don't know why but I pulled all my spark plug wires off of the cap and one at a time I moved them around individual and when I put the 1 wire where it was originally cyl 1 fired off. Put the other 2 wires back on and sure enough it started right up.
Why ask why?
So I have to put the timing cover back on and run my alt/water pump belt before I can run it for more then a few seconds.
That will be tomorrow.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:02 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
A few pics of my progress


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 22, 2017 7:03 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
One more


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 4:26 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Have to work to get it started and not running right. I'm thinking my timing belt is off one tooth so that's where I'm gonna start with my diagnostics.
I'm feeling beat but not defeated. I've been down this road and just have to go through and check everything ,, it's just nuts, bolts and wires ,,,persistence will pay off.
That's my positive side.
My negative narrative goes like this " f this pos "

As a wise man just reciently said " this too shall pass"
Hummmmm,Hummmmmm

Chug,chug along.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 7:42 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Crank shaft keyway is sheared. That allows my lower timing belt cog to move independently of the crank effecting my timing. About to get in there and see how bad it is but it's always good news when I can identify the issue.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 8:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Not sheared but side stepped. Inside of timing cog is worn and the groove for my crank key way may need some attention. New cog is 37$.
I noticed a little wobble in my crank pulley but thought the pulley had a slight bend. Well now I know why it had a wobble to it. I noticed this before I tore my buggy apart last year and believe this along with my valve guides were my issue. More so this then the guides. Before tearing it apart I checked and double checked everything but never considered the crank key.
This is one of those moments of clarity that u can only achieve after spending money and time only to find out you missed the simplest thing. Oh I see clearly what my issue is,Duh
Feeling relived and stupid at the same time but at least I'm smiling.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 9:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
I should note my over size valves make my Engine what's called an
"Interferance" Engine. What this means is if my timing belt breaks or my keyway shears my pistons will make contact with my valves completley bending them.
Needles to say it's a good thing I found this now.


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