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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2017 7:00 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
I finally gathered up everything to reassemble my Dakart. I rebuilt the Engine about two years ago and did not do the valve guides when I had the head rebuilt and it turns out the we're so worn out they were hanging up my valves.
So last thanksgiving I pulled the head and started buying all the little things I needed ,being a car Engine parts are generally cheap most I got from rock auto for pennies on the dollar. My 35$ head gasket was 8$ a 300$ set of injectors was 100$ as an example.
So in keeping with my luck it turns out a gasket on my turbo failed and was making contact with my turbo impeller. Basically wore it down to nothing.I replaced the factory turbo when i rebuilt the Engine last time and went with one off of a Audi,brand new 85$ shipped as opposed to 1200$ for a factory one when u can find it. The suprising part is I still had tons of power and didn't realize there was an issue. My turbo would work loose and riquire frequent wrenching so I decided to attach it and the exhaust with vband clamps.
While gathering up my parts I came across a brand new drive clutch and figured I just bought a brand new driven clutch so I had to have it.
So whIle I'm having the valve guides replaced I decide to go to oversize valves, like I don't already have enough power but seemed like a waste to not do it. Will defiantly compliment my cam.
So after almost a year I have everything sitting here and once it cools off a little I can start reassembling it all.
That's about it, once I get going on it I will post more. I know none of this info dose not really apply to any of u guys but thought someone may enjoy the read.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2017 11:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
You cheap azz. Pictures pal pictures !!
Most of us do like looking at blown up stuff. Pics of the head, valves and turbo would be nice. Pic of the car would do nicely as well.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2017 10:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
I hear ya. I will get some pics.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Old turbo impeller


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:24 pm 
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Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
New turbo impeller. Removed the hot side to have a friend of mine weld the V band clamps on


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Purchased a coolant line kit for the turbo. I had one go out on me before and was a two hour trail repair. Not fun.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 6:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
A baby turbo -- that's cute.
Looks like it poo'd it self too.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 8:39 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
And that's larger then the factory turbo. The smaller it is the faster it spools up which means turbo power hits at a lower rpm. When I punch it it comes on around 1500 rpm. Will spin the tires on asphalt.
Guess what I'm saying is its plenty for my little 3cly.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2017 9:35 pm 
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Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Na this is a real turbo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uKEIOsxjpjQ
I love rotaries :-)


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 3:23 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Bolted the block back in yesterday and got the head torqued down. My new intake gasket was cracked so will be a week before a new one arrives. Tomorrow I'll install the timing belt and adjust the valves. I also need to adjust the advance springs in my distributor.
My turbo manifold is getting welded up as I type this so I should have it back tomorrow.
Still need to notch my new clutch to accept my Heel Clicker weights.
Also need a battery. I'd like a Lipo but are just so expensive.
I'm by no means in a race to finish it,gonna take my time.
I'll get some pics tomorrow of my progress.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 1:07 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Did a little more today. Installed the rocker assemblies ,the timing belt and timing belt cover also adjusted the valve lash.
Took a few pics to give a general idea.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
No offence and I am not bad mouthing your car, but those frame tubes look small. To me they look like they are no bigger than an oddy frame tube. But the difference is that you are running a turbo auto Engine :shock: . Is it just the pics ?? If not then where is the survivability in a crash ??
Did you cut those frame tubes off (across from clutch, second pic) with a sawzall ??


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Yep I took a Sawzall to it. Figured I dI'd not need that bothersome frame getting in my way.
Sorry I couldn't resist.
I don't know the tube size off hand. I suffer from self induced short term memory loss. Guess I could get off the couch and measure it.
No the frame is not cut. As u may recall I did reinforce the roof after my roll over/ endoand cross braced the top of the nose and each side as well as front shock mount area.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
They had to design the frame so u can remove the Engine as well as have access to the clutch. As it is now I have to pull the head if I want to remove the cam as well as to remove the Engine. Has to be installed block first then bolt on the head.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
FloridaEdd wrote:
Yep I took a Sawzall to it. Figured I dI'd not need that bothersome frame getting in my way.
Sorry I couldn't resist.
I don't know the tube size off hand. I suffer from self induced short term memory loss. Guess I could get off the couch and measure it.
No the frame is not cut. As u may recall I did reinforce the roof after my roll over/ endoand cross braced the top of the nose and each side as well as front shock mount area.


Yup I do remember that post.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 7:21 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
1.5" measured the rear down tube.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2017 10:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Scary.
I think in a real crash it's gona fold up like a cheap Chinese lawn chair.
I think the oddy's with the sled engines are sketchy too.
Feel that way because of my big crash two years ago. I hit that washout at highway speed (about 55 mph). Destroyed the buggy. Hate to see what happens when you are doing some real speed.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 2:44 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Well it rolled a few times and did an endo at least once but if I lost it doing one of my 80 mph runs and smack a tree I don't think more metal is gonna help me.
How much more metal would have protected u ? I don't think it makes much difference after a certain point.

But u are sort of correct it is more of a lawn ornament now. Not quite a lawn chair but if I climbed in there it could be.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 31, 2017 12:08 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
FloridaEdd wrote:
Well it rolled a few times and did an endo at least once but if I lost it doing one of my 80 mph runs and smack a tree I don't think more metal is gonna help me.
How much more metal would have protected u ? I don't think it makes much difference after a certain point.


You have a point.
I basically hydraulic'd my spine and crushed the L1 vertebrae.
No amount of metal or even no metal at all will stop that kind of physics.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 6:21 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
Gonna set up my new clutch today. I have to notch it it fit my clutch weights. I've done a few others but it is a time consuming job as they all have to match as close as possible as to not affect the clutches balance.
I make a templet so my pilot holes are placed exactly the same. Then I use a large drill bit which removes a majority of the material and the rest I do by hand with a file.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 8:12 am 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Ready to be trimmed then filed


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 11:09 am 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Getting there


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2017 1:28 pm 
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Location: Tallahassee Florida
Done. Looks pretty good.
Had to order some new weight bushings as mine had more play then I would like.
Will post a pic latter.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 7:58 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 29, 2012 12:45 pm
Posts: 441
Location: South-Central Pennsylvania
Edd, I am following along and paying close attention on your removal/installation as I think I will be removing my own Geo Engine soon also. After many many trouble free miles, I was having a little too much fun at Silver Lake recently and didn't notice it was overheating until I saw some white smoke in the mirrors.

Elementary question.. It looks like you just leave the FNR box completely in place and remove the head, then the block separately?

Mine is the non-turbo. I am wondering about either rebuilding this Engine or maybe finding a used turbo Engine and do the rebuild on that.

Regarding your heel clicker mod. Does heel clicker provide you with measurements for the reliefs made in the clutch case or are you just working from experience here? Any worry of thinning the aluminum casting too much there? What specific performance gain will the heel clicker provide with the Geo powerplant? Any extra thoughts on this appreciated.

Best of luck on your assembly.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2017 9:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Nov 08, 2014 7:40 am
Posts: 916
Location: Tallahassee Florida
At least u were having fun.
Yes the Trans can stay in place. Removing the lt rear upper shock bolt will let the shock swing out of the way.
I'm willing to bet u can get away with a rebuilt head. Have to pull it first so might as well at least consider that depending on what u find.
I'm a big fan of this Engine 1987 Chevy sprint turbo. It was ahead of its time with aluminum block, multi port fuel injection ect.
I've seen complete pull out engines for 500 to 800$ complete rebuild head ect will run less then 200 on parts plus any machine work. The stock turbo is expensive. There is a company that makes tube headers that u can then use a easily sourced turbo. I think these headers are about 250$ I made my own.
If doing all this I'd upgrade ur cam. There is a company that regrinds the stock cam. They have different profiles depending on how much power u are looking for.
You can also get a cam for you're Geo Engine from the same company.
I'd be more then happy to help u any way I can which ever way you go.
They do have a template but I never had one. I tape over the area right next to the weights so I do not damage that surface.
The 9 tower clutch is very strong and notching has no effect on strength.
I went with the heel clicker weights because it gives extra belt grab on takeoff but the weight is on the heel which cancels out once the weight reaches a specific point.
Also being adjustable I can tune it without having a lot of different weights laying around.
There is a forum I go to for my Engine which would be a good source for info and a Engine. I'll send u the forum info.
Any questions don't hesitate to ask.


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