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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 1:23 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
? is the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) box known as GOOD

is there a member close buy to TEST to make sure it is GOOD


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 18, 2017 10:35 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
I do not know if the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) is good for sure. Only have the sellers description to go by. Yes, I know people lie on Ebay all the time stating parts are good.

However, I am having a hard time believing that both CDIs would produce the exact same symptoms. (loss of spark at 1/2 throttle and back fire) Not saying it's not possible, just unlikely. Especially since I have read on here that CDIs normally don't fail.

I don not believe there is another member near me to test them. Only other member I've seen in Ohio has been D-money. But he's on the other side of the state.

Heading out in a bit with some tools and the repair manual to see what I may find. Hopefully I come back with good results.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:46 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
? check the reverse switch is connected and working.

wyeeoddy


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 5:44 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
Ummmm...... Yeah.

Kind of a noobie move, but yes, that was the problem.

In neutral, it rev limits and cuts out the spark. When in Forward, both CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)'s work just fine.

So I rejetted the carb and still need to test drive the buggy. Was running late for a night out and didn't get to try it out.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 19, 2017 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
xlint89 wrote:
Ummmm...... Yeah.

Kind of a noobie move, but yes, that was the problem.

In neutral, it rev limits and cuts out the spark. When in Forward, both CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)'s work just fine.

So I rejetted the carb and still need to test drive the buggy. Was running late for a night out and didn't get to try it out.


:shock: WTF ?????? :shock:
This was happening in the shop ??
I ass-umed and thought it was when you were riding that it was cutting out.
I suggest you stop reving it just sitting there or your gona take out a transmission bearing. It is a splash lube system -- remember ??


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 20, 2017 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
Wasn't running worth a crap. Would never have known the spark was disappearing if I was driving it.

However, I removed the belt before doing all my testing. Also makes it much easier to access the carb adj screws through the rear wheel well.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 21, 2017 7:37 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
? So you were revving it to tune it
sorry to adjust the air screw

Manual say 1.5 turns +/- 1/2 a turn depending on elevation and Temp.

wyeeoddy


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 1:12 am 
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Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
I was revving it to check jetting changes. That's when i noticed no changes between a 160 and a 175 main jet. Dug a bit deeper and found the no spark.

Thanks for the specs Wyeoddy, but mine has a Keihin 35mm Air Stryker carb on it. So stock settings don't mean much.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 6:31 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
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Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
Your trying to Tune with NO load sitting in the shed.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 2:38 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I have to agree with wyeeoddy here. Trying to jet an Engine sitting in the shed is a waste of time. That's not gona work. Why do you think race car teams spend a lot of money on renting tracks for testing and take every opportunity on race day to make a run around the track.
On a positive note here, the only jetting that can be adjusted in the shed is the pilot jet.
I posted a thread called beginners jetting. That's how I do it.
An oddy is un-driveable if the pilot jet is wrong. It spits and sputters and falls on it's face when you get on the throttle. I hate that.
To set the pilot you need one of those small induction tachs. You need it because it is impossible to hear a couple of hundred rpm change on a two stroke.
1) Warm up the machine
2) set air screw out to 1 1/2 turns
3) set idle as slow as possible without stalling
4) with an eye on the tach turn the air screw out 1/4 turn
5) if the rpm went up turn it another 1/4 turn
6) do this until rpm stops climbing or you are out something like 4 complete turns MAX. It takes a few seconds for the rpm to stabilize each time you make a 1/4 turn adjustment so be patient
7) at this point you are out to many turns and will have to make a pilot jet change
8) if the rpm did not increase by moving the air screw out then start over and turn it IN 1/4 turn at a time and if you are less than one turn in then you will have to make a pilot jet change
9) when this fooling around is all over you want to see the tach not increase in rpm when you turn the screw a 1/4 turn and to be about 1 1/2 turns out total.
When you stab the throttle at idle the Engine should not bog

The other jetting must be made while riding and it's highly unlikely you will have to change you needle position from stock setting. Your main will probably be within two jet sizes of stock recommendation.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
I have used this method recently on my dirt bike.

http://smellofdeath.com/lloydy/jetting.htm

It seemed to have worked very well for it.

Now the Oddy is running quite good again. Using that method again, I seem to be quite close. Maybe a touch lean on the main. But I need to make a pretty good run to really see if I needs more fuel or not.

EDIT: After re-reading that procedure again, i see that I am lean on top still. I stopped when it ran clean. I see they want to go up 1 more jet from there.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 22, 2017 10:58 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
xlint89 wrote:
I have used this method recently on my dirt bike.

http://smellofdeath.com/lloydy/jetting.htm

It seemed to have worked very well for it.

Now the Oddy is running quite good again. Using that method again, I seem to be quite close. Maybe a touch lean on the main. But I need to make a pretty good run to really see if I needs more fuel or not.

EDIT: After re-reading that procedure again, i see that I am lean on top still. I stopped when it ran clean. I see they want to go up 1 more jet from there.


Ahhhh now I understand why you were "tuning" it in the garage.
I guess we all do things a little bit different. It don't matter as long as we end up in the same place at the end of the process.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 23, 2017 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
Yes, and your pilot jet method is almost dead on with that procedure.


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