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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2017 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Fri Aug 25, 2017 3:33 pm
Posts: 4
Got a dead FL350 CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) and getting no response on the wanted page for a replacement. But I have learned there are adjustable DC CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) & coil set ups that use the pulser / tigger coil to fire them. I am by no means an expert but I figure I can wire it to the hot ignition source, see that the kill and neutral switches are wired in. No reverse limiter I guess, oh well.
Anyone tried this or another CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) that replaces the hard to get parts original ?

http://www.knmparts.com/CDI-Smart-Digit ... uctId=1070


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 07, 2017 1:13 pm 
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Location: East Peoria IL
I doubt anyone has ever tried that as they never seem to fail. What have you done so far to get your FL350 running? What caused you to conclude the problem is the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)? Do you have a manual?

Seems like people always want to assume the problem is the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). There a lot of good guys on here that can help. Just don't want to see you buy an expensive part you may not need.

We like photos. A picture can say a thousand words.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 08, 2017 7:52 am 
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Lets see, I tested switches and grounds at source and CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) connector, ohm tested stator and pulse trigger per manual, tried original and new replacement plug coil. Removed the stator cover and starter cleaned them up inside. I have an auto ranging MM with max hold and it shows .5v output from pulse trigger coil at CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) connector. Stator shows 50V output at CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) connector. CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) outputs nothing to the plug coil. These readings were done with the plug out of the head and spinning the electric starter.
Electric starter or pull start = identical results.
Spoke with a retired Honda mechanic and he agrees with input voltage to CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) but no output the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) is the culprit.

So in searching I see there are adjustable DC CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) and coil systems that can be hacked in.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 9:36 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
Is there any update to this post?

I myself am having an issue with losing spark at high RPM now.

Odyssey was running great prior to the trip to Mines and Meadows in PA this spring. Since then, I hadn't ridden it, but others had. The thing is, others don't know how it's supposed to run. So when i finally got in, I knew something was wrong. No top end.

Fast forward to today.

The Engine starts and idles beautifully.

Accelerates up to 1/2 throttle flawlessly.

Just past 1/2 throttle, it starts to blubber and BWAH..... all the way up to WOT (Wide Open Throttle). At that point it Pulses. Bing, bing, bing, bing.

What I mean by pulsing is after 1/2 throttle the spark (using an in-line tester) disappears and starts strobing. Each time the spark "strobes" it fires and that's what I call the bing.

Replaced the coil with one from my go kart. Same thing. Even Ohm tested the coil, both tests were within spec. Pulser coil was within spec. Hell, even the regulator was within spec.

I don't have the multi meter they call for in the manual, but one test I tried on the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) was supposed to be infinite, and I had a reading.

So.... am i looking at a bad CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)?

I've seen most guys say they don't go bad.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I am not disputing what either of you is saying, but I find it hard to believe you can see "strobing" at half throttle. Here is why: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W8V0ULlWBrM
An oddy revs to at least 8500 rpm. Half throttle is about 4000 rpm.
You say yours runs good to half throttle and after that is where there is an issue. It could be caused by and air leak. Did you pressure/vacuum test that Engine ?? Fuel supply ??
Bad ground wires ?? Corroded internals on switches ?? Pick up coil (trigger) bolts tight ?? Flywheel tight ?? Key good ??
It may be the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) but like was suggested -- check everything else first.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 10:30 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 16, 2012 5:39 pm
Posts: 682
Location: Sacramento
On my Pilot I had a bad stator causing top end sputtering. Replaced it and it now runs awesome again. Sent the old stator to Rmesser about 5 months ago. He was going to csi it. Guess he got busy or something because he never did it. Be curious if he ever gets around to it what was wrong with it.


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 11:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
Thanks for the responses guys.

Duneit, I assume what you call the stator, is the pulser coil on the 350?

CO, definitely not fuel related. Plug comes out very wet and LOTS of smoke

I get what you're saying about the spark speed in that video, but you can definitely see the spark. Or lack there of.

At just past 1/2 throttle, the spark on the in-line tester stops. And then strobes or pulses about twice a second.

I'm going to have to take a look under the cover now and inspect the flywheel area.

I'll have to also take a closer look at the grounds too.

What switches were you referring to? If the kill switch were faulty, I'd think it would affect all RPM range, not just the upper end.

Thanks again guys


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 11:57 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
xlint89 wrote:
Thanks for the responses guys.

Duneit, I assume what you call the stator, is the pulser coil on the 350?

CO, definitely not fuel related. Plug comes out very wet and LOTS of smoke

I get what you're saying about the spark speed in that video, but you can definitely see the spark. Or lack there of.

At just past 1/2 throttle, the spark on the in-line tester stops. And then strobes or pulses about twice a second.

I'm going to have to take a look under the cover now and inspect the flywheel area.

I'll have to also take a closer look at the grounds too.

What switches were you referring to? If the kill switch were faulty, I'd think it would affect all RPM range, not just the upper end.

Thanks again guys


I am just grabbing at straws. It's all the potential problems I am talking about. Lose wires and poo grounds. I have personally seen on a car where the key switch was faulty and it would start but as soon as you let go of the key the Engine died. My mechanic buddy just held the key on a bit and the car kept running. This is the kind of crap that can happen with bad connections.
I also have a winter truck and a summer truck. At the end of last winter I parked my truck. Everything worked. This year I insure it and now my power window on the drivers side don't work. Corroded ground ?? I am not about to rip it apart to find out. I am not saying these are your issues but you have to rule that poo out. Make a list of potentials and scratch them out one at a time.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 3:00 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Just thought about one other thing. Did you do the vent mod to your Engine yet ?? I ask because the inside of the flywheel housing may be swimming in oil, including your starter. That won't work well for ya.

Edit: You say plug wet and lots of smoke. How does bad ignition cause that ??
Did the main jet fall out ?? Float level ??
I just see so many things to check here.

Edit again: I am not trying to be rude but some are very new members. I have personally helped very new members with parts for FREE including FREE shipping and have been burned verbally and otherwise (more than once actually). I now only help with tech support. I will help members who have been here for ten years OR have at least 500 posts. By then you would probably know what kind of person you are dealing with. I have read here where members have sold parts very cheap to help a guy out and then see their parts on Ebay. So anyone who is new needs to have some patients or do a deal where you send money first and get the parts when your cheque clears the bank. I don't feel that would be unreasonable. That may be some of the reluctance to sell hard to find parts. I know I am off topic here but just have to clear my soul.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 8:32 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
I know you're grabbing at straws. You're just trying to help a guy out. I appreciate that.

I never did the vent mod, just kept the oil level on the lower mark per Honda's bulletin suggested.

Guess I'll find out when I remove the FW cover and inspect under it.

Bad ignition with wet plug and lots of smoke because spark is intermittent but fuel keeps being drawn in from the cylinder vacuum. Therefor it's a very rich condition. Lots of fuel, lots of oil = lots of smoke.

Carb is all good, I was jettting it when I found the loss of spark issue. PWK 35mm Air Stryker 16mm float height 40 pilot at 2 turns out (got a 38 pilot on the way) when I was testing the main is when I saw no change between 175 main and a 160. New there had to be another issue and found the spark disappearing. That's where I'm at now.

I'm not taking you as rude. I fully understand. I've been a long time member on a jet ski board and have helped many of people because the help I received was incredible. Recently there has been a number of newbies that will gladly accept help/donations and turn around to profit from it. (I gave a guy a part not long ago. Only to see him trying to sell it back to the people of the board that helped him out) So yeah, I get it.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 7:37 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 29, 2016 8:11 am
Posts: 71
To answer the aftermarket CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) unit question, I am not sure of what brand you are using. But ,many of us used aftermarket ones back in the day. Not adjustable. Just some thing potted in a white PVC pipe... Not even sure who made it but it was bullet proof. We also did not run ANY charging system and ran on total loss. Just the battery, mag and CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)...


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 8:15 am 
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Joined: Sat Apr 22, 2006 9:15 am
Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
That's the same issue I had when my CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) went poo poo.

have you seen this

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/IGNITION-CO ... SwQPlV7h3o

wyeeoddy.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:49 am 
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Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
I'm waiting for it to warm up a bit. We got hit with some cold weather lately and I don't feel like freezing my butt off when they're calling for a brief warm up.

Wyeeoddy, I have not seen that. But it looks completely different from the stock CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). I would have to cut and splice the existing wires to install that.

In all honesty, that looks like it would work on my Honda GY6 Engine go kart.

Did you install that when yours failed?

Thanks for your reply


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 7:44 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Sure would be interesting and helpful if someone actually tried this and reports back.


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 11, 2017 9:00 pm 
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Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
It might be a standard pic

I have requested info but NO reply

wyeeoddy


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 12:12 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
Did a little tinkering tonight.

Removed the timing hole plug just to get a glimpse. Was hoping to see a bunch of oil or something. No luck, looked good.

Cleaned up the connections at the wiring connectors. No luck either.

Did start it up to see if the cleaned up connections helped and it actually back fired on me. Twice.

Think I'll go ahead and order up a different CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) first. Not looking forward to dropping the fuel tank and removing the recoil assembly just to have a look.

If the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) doesn't do it, I'll have to break down and remove them then.

At least I'll have a spare hard to find part if that isn't it.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 2:33 am 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
xlint89 wrote:
Did a little tinkering tonight.

Removed the timing hole plug just to get a glimpse. Was hoping to see a bunch of oil or something. No luck, looked good.

Cleaned up the connections at the wiring connectors. No luck either.

Did start it up to see if the cleaned up connections helped and it actually back fired on me. Twice.

Think I'll go ahead and order up a different CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) first. Not looking forward to dropping the fuel tank and removing the recoil assembly just to have a look.

If the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) doesn't do it, I'll have to break down and remove them then.

At least I'll have a spare hard to find part if that isn't it.


Ooooooh I think that gave it away right there.
You said it back fired on you twice.
That tells me flywheel key or a big air leak.
Usually it wont start when that happens and I have seen it here before but I would be looking at that first. I know it is a big job but so is rigging in a new CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).
It could also be a Duneit show. Bad stator but I would be checking that flywheel key first and then a stator check.
Just my opinion.


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 14, 2017 7:26 am 
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Posts: 793
Location: Central Coast, N.S.W, Australia
Backfiring, wet plug start and would not rev.

? were you played with any of the electrics prior to it playing up


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 12:07 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
I ordered up a used CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) off Ebay. No rigging involved, just plug and play. Will try installing it first before I go digging into the flywheel. If that doesn't work, I'll be looking at the flywheel key and stator for sure.


Wyeoddy, the buggy was acting funny prior to me doing anything to it. Now the backfire did happen after I started inspecting/cleaning up the connections

Thanks again, guys


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 5:56 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
There is a lot of chatter here in this post about a DC CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).
I can confirm that the oddy is an AC system and NOT a DC.
How do I know ?? Because I started the machine and removed the ground wire from the battery and the oddy kept running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-ffiynmrS8


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:03 pm 
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Posts: 682
Location: Sacramento
canadian oddy wrote:
There is a lot of chatter here in this post about a DC CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).
I can confirm that the oddy is an AC system and NOT a DC.
How do I know ?? Because I started the machine and removed the ground wire from the battery and the oddy kept running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-ffiynmrS8


Go pull your ground wire off your car battery. It'll keep running and it's a dc system. Your alternator keeps it running


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:07 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Duneit wrote:
canadian oddy wrote:
There is a lot of chatter here in this post about a DC CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (Capacitor Discharge Ignition).
I can confirm that the oddy is an AC system and NOT a DC.
How do I know ?? Because I started the machine and removed the ground wire from the battery and the oddy kept running.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_-ffiynmrS8


Go pull your ground wire off your car battery. It'll keep running and it's a dc system. Your alternator keeps it running


Well then I guess I am wrong.
Oh well its not the first time :-)


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jan 01, 2015 1:45 pm
Posts: 149
Location: cleveland oh
CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) showed up today.

That is NOT the problem I'm having. :(

Looks like the fuel tank and pull start assembly are coming off.

Started and wouldn't rev past 1/2 throttle with the different CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) (same problem). Started it the second time and is back fired repeatedly. Pop, pop, pop

On a positive note, I do have a donor magneto on the spare Engine, so I'm not wasting more $$ buying one of those or having to wait for it to arrive.

At this point, I'm kinda hoping it's the woodruff key.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 6:32 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
I really hate electrical. I'm no good at it. I can't figure it out because nothing is moving but when I give it the lick test I end up on my azz.
An electrician tried to tell me once that it is just like a hydraulic system but I find that hard to believe because I can do hydraulics.
My dad is a retired electrician and he always said it is just like a light bulb. It either works or it doesn't. Well I know for sure he is full of it because I have seen a light bulb flicker. The filament was burned off but if you jiggle the bulb it would work.
I hate electrical because I have to rely on someone else and everyone else is a fknidiot. Just ask me I'll tell ya.
I hate electrical.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 8:03 pm 
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Location: Hope, B.C Canada
http://www.fancyscooters.com/item05031- ... e-rpm.html

Please don't ask me :-) LOL
I think AC but not sure.
PDF below.
I hope we get the right answer on this before this thread dies. I think it would be important.


Attachments:
File comment: Color wiring diagram
wiring schematic.pdf [86.85 KiB]
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