Hello my dudes, I’m new to the forum so I thought I’d introduce myself, I’m from West Virginia, and Iv had my Odyssey for a little under a year. Iv been lurking Around on this site for some time now picking up tips and tricks on my course to restoring my Odyssey but I’m an amateur so iv hit a stump, I was hoping for some help.

Forgive me as this post may be long but I just want to paint the right picture. As soon as I bought it the thing ran great, after taking it home, got about an hour or so of run time and then everything went downhill, it wouldn’t idle and it would die when you gave it any gas. Me not knowing much about 2 strokes gave it to my buddy to take a look at it, but he is a car mechanic too so he did his best. The fuel pump was bad, seals with holes so big it was leaking fuel everywhere, ordered a new one but my bud had taken the whole carb assembly apart and couldn’t find a schematic of where the lines were supposed to go, esp the vacuum line. So it wouldn’t work, he got an actual cheap electric pump and rigged it in, it would run but it’d just flood the Engine constantly and eventually that didn’t work. He was stumped. So I called the Honda dealership but they wouldn’t take it so they recommended me to a guy, dude seemed a lil nuts but knowledgeable and he said it needed a new carb, so it got the 33mm PWK carb from chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts, supposed to be a close replacement to the stock one. And he rigged it and and said he also could not find a schematic for the lines so he did what he thought would work... he had it for about 2weeks when he gave it back he said he had to come up with a genius idea for the vacuum line... he drilled a hole in the carb close to where it mounts to the Engine and put a line on it into the vacuum port of the fuel pump. And it idles okay ish, will only do half throttle before it chokes, and now doesn’t even wat to start.
Iv been learning more about carbs and everything and now starting to do my own work, drilling into the carb seems like a dumb idea and obviously it was either flooding the Engine or more likely starving it. On a side note, my fuel tank has a slow leak. So my question is, couldn’t I just switch to a gravity fed tank and bypass this whole fuel pump ordeal? Wouldn’t that just straight up solve the problem, then all I would need to worry about is making sure the carb is jetted correctly and cleaned up, and what to do about plugging that hole he drilled? Or since I found the schematics, try and hook up the carb as it’s supposed to be, I believe the vacuum goes to the crankcase... neither of them had it rigged this way. Any help would be much appreciated!!!!!

Welcome new guy and long time lurker!

Alright, lets address a few issues here.....

1.) "he had to come up with a genius idea for the vacuum line... he drilled a hole in the carb close to where it mounts to the Engine and put a line on it into the vacuum port of the fuel pump. And it idles okay ish, will only do half throttle before it chokes, and now doesn’t even want to start."

Unfortunately, he just destroyed a perfectly good carb. The placement of the pulse line in the carb intake throat area will not work. It is on the intake side of the reeds so it is only pulse it is going to receive is a negative pulse and a week one at that. The pulse type fuel pump needs both positive and negative pulses to work correctly. The pulse line should be connected to the Engine case just behind the drive clutch.

2.) So my question is, couldn’t I just switch to a gravity fed tank and bypass this whole fuel pump ordeal? Wouldn’t that just straight up solve the problem, then all I would need to worry about is making sure the carb is jetted correctly and cleaned up, "

Gravity feed is a sketchy ordeal. The problem is when the Engine is running at full rpm, the fuel flow may not keep up. In order to make it work properly, the carb has to be fitted with a fuel shut off valve which will allow the fuel to gravity flow at a fast enough rate.

3.) "and what to do about plugging that hole he drilled?"

I would make him buy you a new carb. Trying to repair it will cause smooth flow issues in the throat and whatever you use to make the repair may come loose and be ingested by the Engine.

4.) If you are going to run any kind of electric fuel pump, YOU MUST PLUG THE PULE LINE ON THE Engine CASE OR YOU WILL LEAN THE FUEL MIX OUT AND BURN UP THE TOP END!

Rand

Ho man okay lol. Well he gave me the old carb in pieces in a bucket so hopefully maybe i can get it together and he hasnt done anything to that one... maybe all the parts are still there :/ If i cant get that together whats a good carb replacement? Just get another PWK or do you think i shud i sift around ebay for a stock carb?

Thanks for the info btw, definately the best advice given to me so far lol

If brains were explosives then between the two of those "mechanics" they wouldn't have enough to blow up a balloon.

I agree with Randman. I would make him buy me a new carb. WTF why would he even think of drilling a hole in the carb if the machine WAS running a while ago.
At the end of the day that carb might be salvageable if you take it to a welding or machine shop to get welded. If they have a tig welder on site it should be ok.
The other thing you could do is glue a bolt with a nut on in place of the hole but like Rand said it may come out and get ingested into the Engine and the flow will be disrupted. You choose.

You're welcome.

Unless you are knowledgeable with fuel systems, I would stay with the factory setup. Post pictures and we can see if all of the parts to your carb are there.

I would also stay with the factory fuel pump system. Winderosa makes a fuel pump rebuild kit. If you are not comfortable rebuilding your factory fuel pump, Canadian Oddy has figured out some good replacement pumps for fuel delivery and I'm sure he can help.

Rand

Gravity feed a bad idea like Rand said unless you run a fuel pump with it. But that's the issue you got now in the first place. Your new fuel pump must put out 4.5oz in 10sec approx. measured with a stop watch. Just use the starter, you don't start the Engine for this test.
When it comes to jetting a carb it is easy. Here are the steps: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17445&hilit=beginners+jetting

What is your compression ??

Here is the fuel pump I run.
Made by Polaris part #3085275
You can get them online real cheap.

Side note: The top fitting on that pump is the vacuum line port --

By the sound of it, damage to the top end may already have been done due to it running lean.

Rand

I agree, that's why I asked for compression

I figured as much. :)

Rand

Do you have a manual ??
You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/wp-content/uploads/2 ... -Parts.pdf

By the way welcome new guy.

Wow! Those pumps are cheaper than the Winderosa rebuild kit!

Gotta wonder if they are Chinese knock offs!

Rand

When you finally get this unit back together DON'T EVEN FN START IT until you have done a pressure/vacuum test. Air leaks are deadly to a two stroke. Also jetting will be a nightmare.
We will teach you how to do that later.

They are but they work fine. Got em on my machine.

Welp iv got some work ahead of me lol. Thanks for the welcome, i shouldv came here first before taking to these ‘geniuses’. I got a mikuni pump right now, i can test it to make sure its working if not ill pick one up off ebay. So i work this weekend so i wont be able to work on it much, ill put some pics up tonight of the carb and all that. Monday - thursday i have off so ill be working on ut almost nonstop if i can figure out what to do. Idk what the compression is right now but before the second guy got ahold of it it was very good compression... cant remember what exactly now. The guy i bought it from said it sat in a local shop on ‘display’ for almost 15 years and he ran it only once when he bought it. So who knows how much else needs fixed.

We will help you out here the best we can.
That pump will be ok if it passes the flow test -- 4.5oz in 10sec approx.
One other thing I would like to add (and this will cause argument lol) is run Avgas. There are endless threads on this site about blown engines. That's your first clue. The pump gas of today is total crap. Its not the same as the 1970's 80's stuff. It detonates. Also the oddy's run firecracker hot. The Engine is air cooled and it is located behind the seat. Think about it. This all causes the fuel to detonate and either blow a hole in the piston or heat it up so bad you get ring lock. I took a poll here on this site once and asked who ran race gas, Avgas or straight pump fuel. The results were 50/50. If you are a gambling man run the crap fuel. You have been warned. Don't listen to others. The manual has a min octane rating you can run. In my opinion it is wrong. Octane needs to be higher. Others here have run their machines on pump fuel but then tell everyone you have to jet rich. Yeah now it runs like crap and burns fuel like an F15 on afterburner. These things get poor mileage at best when you are on the pipe.
Avgas amen.

Mine runs just fine on 92 octane pump fuel. So does the one I bought back from my EX wife..... so does my Son in Law's......

If you jet it properly you won't need Aviation fuel..... it's for airplanes.

Can Odd, you being an ex racer, run a lot harder than the majority of us so yes you yourself need high octane fuel.

Sorry Can Odd..... I couldn't resist!

Rand

If you and I were on the same job site the war would be on -- all day long.
It would be an awesome place to work

You're just a stubborn square head like myself!

Rand

Ok today I gathered all the part up and listing what I got, this is the contents of the bag filled with carb pieces and pumps he gave me. I haven’t gotten to disassemble it yet and match it up with the schematics yet, hopefully it’s all there... although I do remember him saying something along the lines of ‘between all the parts you gave me I was able to get it running’. So I might be missing a few things. Tomorrow my buddy is dropping off his compression and leakdown testers, so I had a question, for the leakdown test what do you guys use to seal the Engine up? Specifically the exhaust and intake ovcourse. Iv heard of people using freeze plugs? Anyway tomorrow I’ll have compression results so I can atleast have an idea if my top end is destroyed lol

As far as fuel goes I’ll lrobably just use 93 oct until ts all good and running. But I was considering running avgas,, I do tend to run my other toys pretty hard lol. That’s why I was hoping to do a long travel kit for the 350... maybe even a 670 conversion one ay but.... in time lol

I gotta pick up a new battery tomorrow too, then I can do the pump test aswell

You have been warned.

From first glance it seems everything is there for the carb as well as a few other pieces from what ever.

I plug my exhaust with an aluminum plate that I made and some inner tube for the seal.
I plug my vacuum line for the pump with a bolt and clamp or just hook up the pump itself.
I plug the intake with a piece of UHMW I turned down in the lathe but I am sure you don't have one of those. So you can use anything round that fits in the intake hole and don't leak.

That aluminum plate I talked about has two fitting on it. One for a pressure gauge and one is a tire valve so you can add air for the test. I also do a vacuum test on mine but that is more involved.

DO NOT USE MORE THAN 10 PSI MAX.
Most use about 7 psi. Any more than 10 psi and you can blow the seals out.
You want it to hold pressure for at least 15 min.

Piston must be in the down position.
Anywhere near the bottom is good. You just want the ports in the Engine open and not sealed off with the piston.

If you want to get creative you could use the vacuum line for the fuel pump to put pressure into the Engine if you want and then just put a gauge on the intake or exhaust plug. Many ways to do this. You choose.