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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 2:00 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
Yes I took measuments of the arms and sent him the pic of the arms and shock installed showing shock angle. Also sent this sheet showing distributed weights of front and rear and of course my own weight with info and pics of the types of terrain I ride. Im sure he's doing his best to getting as close as possible and mentioned that he might not get it the first time around since this is his first time doing a pilot.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 2:05 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
EDIT: you posted while I was typing. LOL! Your on the right path. Who is doing the work?

I was hoping Adnoh would chime in. :-)

This explains it and shows some pics of where you measure, but man, That is one annoying website!

http://f-o-a.com/foa-suspension-calculator-how-to/

Honestly if I was looking for just an idea of what to run, Id try to find Dave-Co's thread where he mentions what springs he used. Despite what everyone here says or thinks about him, dude knows his shit with suspension and was a very fast desert racer at one time. He mentioned how plush his rides. I think another member here has his setup and likes it? Maybe you can get some numbers off him?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 7:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3620
Location: Wichita ks
Ah man, I read what I wrote. I said lever instead of linkage. Sorry. Tried to type and work at same time. Bad idea.
I think Steve said his springs felt soft and bottomed to easy. Not sure if he changed the shock location or was just driving the heck out out it. Still think a dual rate would be the way to go.
Pretty sure works has one if available and also race tech.

I will look in my book and see what I came up with for a wheel rate and then see how it may help. At least have a start point to put you numbers to work. For others who use this arm set up. And of course try asking Farr. His design or are the first to use?


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 7:10 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
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Location: Wichita ks
Thanks for sharing it does help others


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 14, 2018 11:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Aug 07, 2012 11:34 pm
Posts: 219
Dave told me 140/150 pound springs work for a 200-210lb rider on his LT


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 1:54 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Brittabrat wrote:
Dave told me 140/150 pound springs work for a 200-210lb rider on his LT


There you go.

So far the 250 does sound high, still depends on the motion ratio, like Adnoh said though.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 6:53 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
Hey thank you for responses, this is good stuff.
Yeah 250 seemed a little high to me too but I'm going to let the tuner do his thing and test it when I get it together...he might know something I don't (which I know didley) so I won't bug him on the issue.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 10:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
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Location: near NJ rider
Sooo....whos doing the shocks?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 15, 2018 11:56 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
bullnerd wrote:
Sooo....whos doing the shocks?


http://www.rocketronracing.com/

I called a few big named shops here in Ca but none wanted anything to do with the project. Since these shocks came off a Polaris Outlaw I decided to go on a polaris outlaw forum and ask the outlaw guys who they had doing their suspension. Rocket Ron Racing came up a couple times with good reviews so I gave him a call and he said "I'll sure try". So that was good enough for me lol.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2018 5:59 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
No updates. Still waiting on revised parts since April from Farr Offroad. First parts had fitment issues with top arm and rod arm hitting the inside of the rim at not even close to full turn. Bummer that I powdercoated the parts without mocking but that's my fault for being trusting of the fabricator that it will fit and work properly.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 04, 2018 10:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Dec 01, 2015 3:26 pm
Posts: 56
Location: Indianapolis, IN
Did anything ever become of this?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 05, 2018 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
Yes. Been super busy with other things but full report coming soon!


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 1:05 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
Getting things dialed in and finally doing some testing. Like mentioned really built and thought out system. The A-arms are beefy using quality ball joints. My only concern are the pivot bolts in the bump steer assembly. In my opinion the 3/8" bolts are too thin. I decided to switch the provided pivot bolts stainless ones and they bent like butter after the first test run. I switched back and the provided grade 8 bolts and so far they're holding up. I suggest using 7/16" bolts or maybe even 1/2".
So far I've been giving this thing the usual abuse and its holding up very well. Still working out the steering setup but haven't done any back to back comparisons with my stock pilot. One thing that is obvious is the bump steer doing it's job. I landed a jump on an angle with the left front wheel landing first and both shock and bump absorbed the impact nicely. Normally the yoke would rip from my hands. Emmanuels choice to use shocks off of a Polaris outlaw was a good choice, these are their version of the Fox podium so parts and tuners are easy to find for them. Rocket Ron Racing did a nice job rebuilding the shocks and setting them up for the pilot. At first I was skeptical of his choice of springs but these things soaked up the terrain as fast as it came with little to no deflection. Did a couple small jumps, nothing too extreme and the landings are plush.
I've only had time to do good 4 runs so more to come along with more detailed pics


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 1:49 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Is your chassis tweaked ??
In that first pic it looks funny to me but it may be camera angle.
Looks square in the other pics.

PS: looks like a nice shop with 12' door, big azz compressor, 200 amp service and a roll around table (a must have).


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 2:12 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
Yes my frame is bent up front, the previous owner must of hit hard on the front bumper. It did make it difficult to get the bump steer bracket on and dialing the overall set up to steer straight. Fortunately the a-arms are fully adjustable (camber, caster and toe.) Lots of trial and error haha


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 4:58 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
Pics of the kevlar/ss brake lines. I only replaced the rubber lines and kept the stock pre-formed steel lines. I couldn't get the brass brake tee to line up to the mounting bracket so when in doubt safety wire it. My apologies for the sideways and up side downs photos.


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 9:23 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Looks great!

Congrats on getting to ride it.

To me, the ride height is way too high in the front. Id set those arms parallel to the ground with me in it.

But that's just my opinion.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 3:43 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
Posts: 1430
Location: Norco, CA
do you have any details on the shocks, which model outlaw they cam off of, travel, extended length and compressed length?
also can you take some pictures of the bump steer setup installed?

Did you end up with the 250#/inch springs?
Thank you


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2018 5:17 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
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Location: San Clemente, CA
Shocks are from a 2009 Polaris Outlaw 450MXR.
Yes so far the 250# springs are working out great.
I'll post more pics soon...


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:38 pm
Posts: 53
Location: San Clemente, CA
2nd failure of the puny 3/8" pivot bolts used in the bump steer assembly. The first time I used stainless steel bolts which one of them bent. This harder bolt just snapped. As it is, it will not take any real world abuse. These pivot bolts take a lot of impact and shock from side to side. Like I mentioned above Farr-Offroad needs to go bigger on the bolts for the pivot assembly...at least 7/16" or 1/2" and beefier bearings. I'd would go with needle bearings.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 04, 2018 6:43 pm 
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Location: San Clemente, CA
I also used locktight so they weren't loose.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2018 10:15 pm 
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Joined: Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:53 am
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Location: Norco, CA
I think the bolts would be strong enough if there were in double shear.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 07, 2018 8:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Dec 24, 2006 5:58 pm
Posts: 2319
Location: near NJ rider
Kuma wrote:
I think the bolts would be strong enough if there were in double shear.


Waaa? 3/8" bolts mounted from one side in a steering system?

That don't sound right.

The Briggs use a ton of 3/8 hardware and have no problem.

Also, any 3/8 bolts should be 24 not 16.

Better pics of the part before it broke?

EDIT: I went back looked at your earlier pics of the swingset. that's not a good design. Can you run a bar across from bolt to bolt? The shank of the bolt should also extend into the support section(or all the way through), not threads right at the stress point.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:06 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 18, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 3760
Location: PERTH WESTERN AUSTRALIA
Good idea Bull or an easier no weld option I would try would be to utilize that thick stop bolt plate.Simply bend up a bridge bracket from the pivot bolt to the back of the stop bolt and secure with a nyloc nut to the stop bolt threads.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 08, 2018 1:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7698
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
bugeye59 wrote:
Good idea Bull or an easier no weld option I would try would be to utilize that thick stop bolt plate.Simply bend up a bridge bracket from the pivot bolt to the back of the stop bolt and secure with a nyloc nut to the stop bolt threads.


Yeah I think bullnerd figured it out. Good one Bull.
I like your idea Bug, with the no weld option as well.
Could probably do a complete bolt set up with Bullnerd's idea as well. Probably what he was thinking anyways.
My question is: is there enough clearance for either of your options ??


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