Well finally got a chance to work a bit on the Engine that blew a long while ago because the stock intake rubber boot had a big crack. Did some research online and everyone crowing about needing a 30 to 50 ton press to do this job . Well I just have a 2 1/4" (piston size) porta power ram and an air/hyd foot pump. I measured the output on that pump and it puts out 9000psi at 110psi air pressure. So that works out to just under 18 tons. It came apart fine and without stressing the pump much. Not sure yet about putting it together but if this is any indication it won't be a problem.

I think it's a gonner

Now what?

I got a new rod and pin. Put it back together next week.

O boy

here are some spec sheets from past builds

speed

Well I did measure it but it is not as elaborate as your drawings.
It's my first one and looking foreword to it.
If it blows up, so what. I will do it again .

I see that those drawings are for the FL400 and mine is for the FL350.
I guess that explains why my baseline number is 2.522 and not 2.755.

oops here are some fl350 spec sheets
and a blank crank and rod spec sheets that i made yeas ago enjoy

Speed

Here are some good reads on crank shaft rebuilding

thanks Speedchaser

Thanks speed I appreciate that stuff

Please share the rod and pin numbers and suppliers I have a 350 crank that needs done too.

I will do that on Monday for you.
I have the Vesrah unit.
Normally don't come home from work on the weekends but I did this time. Don't have time right now, bed time.

I thought I had the Vesrah rod but I don't. I have the prox unit. I think I purchased this one because it had two sizes of shims.
Note I weighed the rods and pins with a small dope dealer type scale (no I'm not a dope fink. I don't even smoke or drink). I use it to weigh the pucks on the clutches.
Ok here are the measurements and you guys can convert to millimeter if you want, but I am old school.

More pics coming so give me a few minutes. Can only attach about half dozen at a time.

More pics.

I aligned the rods and put a straight edge on the end. Then I used a feeler gauge to measure the gap. The prox rod is aprox .030" longer. Maybe closer to .032" longer. So that will have to be sanded off so it don't smack the casing.
Also a side note here - I did measure the original shims on the rod but one was so badly damaged it was no use measuring it and the other not to bad. It measured almost the same as the new one. It came in at .038".

Well I just finished the new rod install. Man that's a lot of fooling around.

Just a heads up if your have a fit with getting close or bouncing back and forth let it sit for a day
let it age
and if you think you got it on the first try make sure you check it the next day as they will move as it relaxes

Nice Job
Speed

P.S. so how much you charge i have a couple that need to be done

Note I use old crank bearing
I bore one out so it will have the same od on both sides
and make them a slip fit

Thanks for the advice. I will do that (let it "age").
How much do I charge -- Baahahahahahaha -- I don't think a guy could charge enough for all that fooling around, and now I have to let it age and possibly do some more fooling around. Thanks again for the spec sheets and advice, especially on that welding question I had. Man I am glad I didn't do that.

This is what the head looks like. Hope I can salvage it. You can see all the rod bearing shrapnel embedded and damage.

Man sure a lot of damage to this Engine in all areas.
The reeds are damaged, cylinder scared up, starter shot.
I did weigh the piston (82mm) and the pin for anyone's future reference.
I am going to run what I got because the cylinder is on its last over bore so will see what happens. This is just a spare Engine anyhow so don't know when it will ever be run.

I just want to add a bit more to this thread before it gets put to bed.
Below are some of the specs on the Engine and some interesting results in my opinion.
This Engine had a lot of damage as a result of that rod bearing exploding because of a cracked stock intake manifold. You may notice a couple of things in the info: 1) ring end gap 2) compression.
I noticed that the ring end gap on the wiseco rings always seems to be around .020. That could be because I get my cylinders bored .005 over ( I even have one that is .007 over, yes it runs well). The compression was a surprize. It came in at 150 plus, even with that scared up cylinder.
The Engine we are talking about here is the red one on the left.
On a side note here: I noticed that the wiseco pistons are .4oz heavier each size up you go.

The red Engine that had blown crank:
ProX rod #03.1315 (has 2 sets of shims .039 & .058) Needs to be trimmed about .030 at big end so that it don't smack the casings.
Big end clearance: .014
Ring end gap: .020
Head gasket: Copper .010
Base gasket: Brass .010
Cylinder: 82mm has several scars from the connecting rod failure due to cracked intake manifold
Compression: 154 psi
Holds pressure: loses 4 psi at 20 minutes
Holds vacuum: loses 4 in at 20 minutes
Stock metal reeds

Want to update this thread.
This is the Engine that is now in the death machine.
It has been on a couple of runs now and it runs great.
My buddy drives this machine and he says the Engine "comes alive" the higher we go.
That's probably because I jet them a bit lean down low as most of our riding is high altitude. Could be my jetting needs adjustment but I am not going to F around with it, all machines run good.

Nice work on that crank. For anyone not having the equipment or knowing how to do this right you can get the work done from Competitive Cranks for reasonable prices:

Supply your own rod kit ($90~150)
Crank rebuild by Competitive - About $75
Crank welding by Competitive - About $25
Shipping - Figure $50 to and from for things

Contact:
Jeff Seebold
Competitive Cranks
http://www.competitivecrankshafts.com
208-297-3344