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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 6:38 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 08, 2017 6:26 pm
Posts: 5
I have researched numerous threads and info on rear axle removal and I am now at a point where I feel I have to drill the inboard axle stub to remove them. I tried the slide hammer method using bearing knife. I started with 5 lb slide and went on to 20 lb dumbell with no success. I have used pb blaster daily for about 4 weeks. When sprayed on 1 side, the pb blaster easily makes it out the other side. I have concluded the "c" clips are the only thing holding my stubs in. I am thinking about drilling a 3/8" hole in one side punching the opposing side out. My question is will the inboard stub I drill out still be ok to use? Or will the hole weaken the stub to the point where it cannot be used? Thanks in advance for your input.

Jeff


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2018 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jan 17, 2012 3:19 am
Posts: 7699
Location: Hope, B.C Canada
Kozminot wrote:
I have researched numerous threads and info on rear axle removal and I am now at a point where I feel I have to drill the inboard axle stub to remove them. I tried the slide hammer method using bearing knife. I started with 5 lb slide and went on to 20 lb dumbell with no success. I have used pb blaster daily for about 4 weeks. When sprayed on 1 side, the pb blaster easily makes it out the other side. I have concluded the "c" clips are the only thing holding my stubs in. I am thinking about drilling a 3/8" hole in one side punching the opposing side out. My question is will the inboard stub I drill out still be ok to use? Or will the hole weaken the stub to the point where it cannot be used? Thanks in advance for your input.

Jeff


From what I have read on this site, the axel removal on a Pilot can be a job.
Here is a good thread with good info viewtopic.php?f=1&t=16212
Apparently the axel can be drilled according to that thread.
That would be my last resort though. If you do have to drill it then I would try soaking it again and trying again to get it out. If that fails then I would try grease and a punch that fits correctly in that drilled hole, so keep that drill hole size in mind. Size it for a 3/8 or 1/2 so you can use a piece of cold roll as a punch for the grease method.
Caution: If the drill hole is lets say 3/8 then DON"T use a 3/8 punch. Reason: The punch will mushroom and you won't get it out.
Drill the first hole small (1/4") (don't BREAK THE BIT) and try the lube. Then drill bigger if no go.
I have broken drills in a hole before at work. It is not an issue if you are skilled with a cutting torch. The drill bit is very hard and it heats up fast. Then a real quick shot with the oxygen lever. So what I do next to get the broken bit out is smack it with a punch. The bit will break up most of the time. Repeat. Just don't break the bit -- Amen.

As for your question: "will it weaken it to the point where it cannot be used ?"
Well I would use it anyways because these parts are expensive and hard to get.

Just my thoughts.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2018 10:20 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 21, 2003 8:57 pm
Posts: 407
Location: Orlando
There are a few things I have always done when removing axles. I have never had to drill out an axle stub. (I know others have as a last resort option)

If the axle is totally rusted in, I wish you the best of luck. The more rust and crap build up around the clip really limits the chance of the clip releasing. All you can do is keep spraying with PB blaster until all the crap is cleared out of the slot the clip sits in.

If the axle stub is free you should be able to feel a little bit of play in and out (may 1/4 inch or so). When you hook up the slide hammer pull the axle stub as far out as possible before hitting it with the slide. I believe pulling the axle stub out first allows the wire clip to sort of compress a little and more easily release when using the slide hammer. If you have the axle pushed in and hit it with the slide hammer I think the wire clip just slams against the ridge inside binding up.

The second step is to slowly rotate the axle as you hit it with the slide hammer. For instance, use the slide hammer 3 or 4 hits at 12 o'clock, then rotate that same point on the axle to 1 o'clock, do 3 or 4 hits, rotate to 2 o'clock, 3 or 4 hits and so on. The wire clip holding the axle in does not go all the way around the axle shaft, by rotating the axle it allows the portion of the axle with out the clip to be in slightly different positions as you hit it with the slide. While doing this process I have always been able to get the axle out. Some fight harder than others, but I have removed at least 10 sets with this process.

Also is the trans in the frame or on your bench? If it is not in the frame I suggest putting it back in the frame to remove the axles. I have never had good luck removing axles with the trans on a bench.

When you do get them out, removing the axle to clean them should become a yearly maintenance thing. There was an old post from Hoser about building up a silicon "gasket" around the axle before re installing the axle . That process worked very well for me and I highly recommend searching for that post and coping the process when you go to re-install your axles.

Best of luck.... getting the axles out may be the worst thing you ever have to do on a Pilot


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