So you haven't gotten either side apart right?

Like I said, There are people here that know, they just aren't speaking up for some reason.

We have gotten the inboard (tranny side) apart. The outer (wheel) side is what's stuck. Might make a slide weight to fit over the axle and smack the inner race off. Just hope we don't bust the inner race

Ok, I may have miss spoke on clip. Not saying it correctly.
Here is how I have removed them. So.e a pain and some easy. Either way blunt force is required after static force is applied.
So I take and put the axle In a vise near the top where the diameter get thicker. Then I measure the distance down to the inner race. I cut a piece of pipe leaving an 1/2 inch gap or take measurements and subtract an 1/2" cut the pipe so it slide down over the axle. Closer the diameter the better. Thicker wall the better. I use electrical conduit called ridged. Make sure your cut that sets on inner race is flat. Then I put back in vise. Then I take a pickle fork and wedge it in between the vise and piece of pipe. This will will apply static force to the inner joint and clip. Now before you do that use a spay lube all inside the joint if you have cleaned it. If the pickle fork will not pop it then get flat punch and put against inner joint and hit with a BFH. Be sure to place something under the joint as not to damage when it pop's. You have to hit it hard. You may even have to apply a little more pickle fork pressure as you go. The combo will pop it.
Do not apply force to the balls and outer race. It will damage the set up.

If you pickle fork is open too much weld on a piece of paper around it untill you get a good fit.
Vise needs to be fastened good or the shock load will be assorbed by the vise and not the race.
You may also have to work the flat bar around in different spots on the race as you go.
After apart place clip inside race to see if it need more gap

Good call on the static pressure.

So Adnoh, your saying you have removed the outer CV star off the axle ?

It sure looks like there is a snap ring/clip in the picture CO posted.

Thank you adnoh!! Going to try this tonight.

Yes I have done them. It a c clip like what holds the inner axle stub in the trans.
Once it's removed you can turn inner race to remove balls Andy remove from outer race.
Once I feel better I'll go out and video one for board to have. It takes commitment and big hammer. I was timmed the first time then hit the hell out of it. So get the drive bar flat on the race it a meaty spot and get it.

How did you make out Brit?

Still trying to get them apart. At this rate it might be a machine shop or a strong air hammer. Busted a pickle fork. Pretty sure my CVS will be shot soon.

I have a silly question here -- lets say you get it apart -- how are you going to get it back together later ??
Another silly question -- lets say you destroyed the bearing -- can you still get new bearings ??

Guys have been replacing the stock axles with long travel for years. The long travel axle would just push back in, held in with the Cir clip.

I thought everyone knew about Rockford Drive line here in good old Illinois.

http://www.motormasterpowersports.com/

They have both inner and outer kits.

Well that's my question, wouldn't the circlip be on the inside where you can't get at it ??
Isn't this why he can't get it off ?? I am missing something here.

Yes the Cir clip is on the inside of the outer hub. You have to use properly applied force to compress the Cir clip allowing the axle to slide out.

Even have U joints for FL350

Ok I got I now. It's my old mind not functioning. It's a spring type circlip and NOT a retainer style clip.

Yeah, I was just going to say, CO your thinking of the retainer clip style.

That's what it looks like in the pics you posted, but I guess its not.

Bought 2 kits to be safe! I searched not well enough it seems! Thank you so much, machine shop tomorrow!

And Canadian oddy, I'm a she not a he lol

Well that's tough for me to see from way over here LOL.
Now a days a guy can't be sure until he has a REALLY good look.

So how's the newly rebuilt axles working out?

I have to buy new axles or destroy my stock axles.

Machine shop couldn't do it
Auto shop couldn't
Boyfriend smashing them like crazy in a vice couldn't.

We gave up and are trying to source the other CV cups so we don't have to wreck these.

Dang! That sucks!

Yeah. You're telling me

I had to have both of my outer CV's rebuilt when I got my first LT, the rear lower arms were adjusted in to much. What it did was break the inner retainer ring on the outer cv so the axle itself would hit the end of the cv inside, back then you could still get cv joint parts readily and we had a guy here that rebuilt them. Anyway, he had a press he made just for doing CV's but he told me that it would destroy the cv bearing cage when taken apart, I never questioned him and back then getting the parts to rebuild the CV's was not a problem.

I have read about how guys on here have taken them apart and then put them back together without damage, I have never done it myself.

I would call around to shops that specialize in U-Joints and drive shafts, maybe you will get lucky and find a shop that has been around a long while and maybe still has some of there old CV axle equipment.

I know the guy that bought out the Gentleman that used to rebuild the CV's, if needed I can call him and see if he still has the stuff to separate the outer cv joint. But like I said before the original guy that did the rebuilds said it destroyed the bearing cage.

I hope this helps, good luck.