Today riding one of the odyssey’s the belt broke and binded up in the clutch and believe that locked up the clutch, and then blew the transmission! I had to cut out the belt, and there is a gaping hole in the transmission. Would you all think there is additional damage? Engine starts and seems to idle just fine. Do you think the clutch is damaged? Love to hear everyone’s thought on this?

Thanks all!
Mike

250 or 350 - I cant remember what you have.

Any pictures?

Pretty sure you have a fl350. The only gear box that have seen with a hole in it, is the fl250, when the chain finally breaks.

How was it running just before it happen? Did you hear any noise?

I would be very cautious before you reuse the clutch.

You need to determine point of failure. Did the belt cause the problem? was it the clutch, or perhaps the gearbox locked up.

Time to CSI.

2-350’s. I’ll get some pics, right now just frustrated and can’t believe the belt bound up in the clutch and could cause this issue. I’ll try and get some pics later tonight and post.

My money is on the belt. Binding the clutch at speed would load the gear box to the point of failure IMO. It would be similar to landing on the gas... torque has to go somewhere and those wheels are spinning and trying to force a bound box and clutch. I once had a buddy lock up on the trail after he bent his rim and it bound the wheel against the buggy. Locked everything up but no box failure likely because the belt could absorb the system bind.
Sorry for your box loss.
Pictures? Is the box a complete loss?

My thoughts on this are a bit different than the others here.
The belt is the weak spot in the system and it would shred or slip before anything else is damaged.
You stated that you holed your transmission. That tells me you probably broke a tooth off a gear and it jammed up the gearbox. This probably jammed your belt and clutch up. I bet you have in the past and may have been jumping that oddy with the power on when it landed. You can't do that with any FL350 as there is no slip clutch like the FL400 Pilot. I may be wrong on that and you can correct me. If you were doing that now or in the past then you probably at some point put a crack in a gear tooth. It was just waiting to break off and jam up the gearbox. I think that clutch is still good.
I may be wrong but any pictures you post will tell us the real story.

Edit: I am thinking something like my spare transmission below, but with a complete tooth or teeth missing.

I have a blown gearbox here in my shop. Depending on which gear you blew I may be able to send you one of mine if you need it to get running again. You can weld up any hole in a casing.

I’ll get some pictures but the belt was so bound up I had to cut the belt out of the clutch. It was wrapped up on itself and it was stuck in there something terrible! The transmission case isn’t savable in my opinion, not just a hole a massive crack and a massive hole. I haven’t yet had the energy to remove it, so pissed off at the moment just contemplating if I should part this one out and go in a different direction? I had just put a liquid cooled setup on this, it was my 3rd time riding this year. I’ll get some pics for everyone, but completely appreciate the comments! Vacation with the family, so far off to quite a adventurous start!!!

Don't see that as a problem either. Both case halves on mine are good.
We'll see when you post pics. Then make a decision.

Few pics before the work begins.

That looks to me like an AB gear pile up. Broken tooth.
Also before and as you take this thing apart, take lots of pics to help you put it back together if you can salvage this gearbox or the parts. Amazing that everyone has a phone on their azz but don't take pics when they take stuff apart at work. Then they act dumb when extra pieces left.

Edit: One of our newest members -- NeedzMoarPower -- needs to log on and look at this shyte.

Agreed, I’m old school I just bag and label everything so it’s easier to stay organized and help put it back together. Thanks for the opinions, I don’t think the case is salvageable, but haven’t gotten it pulled out enough to get a close enough look at it. Trans looks to be very pricey, really not sure if I want to continue to throw $ at it. A good nights sleep might look more clear in the morning.

Part it out and buy a Pilot. They are so much more in every aspect. There is a Pilot on Craigslist right now for $3,500 by me in Sacramento. I've owned 3 Odyssey's and 5 Pilots. My Odysseys were bullet proof (Rand built!), but the Pilots have sooo much more power, suspension, handling, etc.. stock for stock.
You'll be glad you did. Just my 2 Cents.

Looking at that pic again I think that gearbox case is an easy repair. Needs to be cleaned good so oil don't contaminate the weld. The issue will be the probable busted gear tooth. You could get a gear made by linngear in Oregon. Not sure what that would cost though and I have not had to use their expertise. They reverse engineer and can make what you need according to the website.
http://www.linngear.com/
Another issue will be getting needle bearings. The needle bearing for the AB gear is no longer available. There was a guy here a long time ago who said a corvette transmission had that same bearing as the AB gear and I did contact him. He was suppose to get back to me on it with info but hasn't done that at this point. I did PM him but no reply yet. He may have left the site. There was a post on it but I don't remember the name of it as it was a long time ago.
The other issue will be if a shaft is damaged. It may be bent so you will have to dial it. If the bearing seat is damaged that would be bad.
But right now my money is on just a gear.

You could just buy this....

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-HONDA-ODY ... SwNA1bGEh9

Rebuild it and install.

$382.50 delivered, that's hard to beat.

This guy has the right and left case for sale. $110 delivered.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R ... fl350+case

If it was me I would prefer the complete gearbox, well if it was me, I would just buy a pilot.

Looks like there are several options.

Steveo has the gear upgrade kit, NOS.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1985-HONDA-ODY ... SwKQ9aBF5-

Well trans is completely out of the machine, the driven pulley shaft was completely bent and my original thought of the belt braking and binding up in the driven pulley and the clutch is what I believe happened. That belt wrapped on itself, and think that must be super uncommon. The case is completely blown apart on the left side next to the shaft.

I’ll get some pics in the morning. I ordered a new (used) trans and will hopefully installed next weekend. Seems like a good time to replace the stock clutch with the comet 102c I have laying around. Assuming I’ll need a clutch puller, any other specialized tools required for the disassembly and comet 102c install? Also anyone have a pink spring for the 102c clutch I hear that’s sort of the most General spring to start with?

Thanks!

Puller specs for the Salsbury clutch see pics below.
Note that the 94c puller uses a 9/16" bolt and the Salsbury uses a 3/4" bolt. Also the puller for the Salsbury is 2" shorter.

I really hope that you pull the casings apart on that blown trans and post the pics, as I am real curious to see if any teeth busted off the AB gear.

You may already know how to take the clutch off, so don't take this the wrong way, but I am gona tell ya anyways. You need an air gun to make this easy. Remove the bolt that holds the clutch on, insert the pusher rod, start the pusher bolt by hand until it pushes on the rod, rattle it tight with the air gun, smack the bolt head with a hammer. Rattle smack rattle smack -- you get the idea. Don't go apprentice on the impact gun. You just tighten it not rattle for an hour on it. The clutch will not come off most of the time with just the impact gun, you have to hit the head of the bolt with a hammer. It will make a very loud "POP" when it is off, and no you didn't bust something when you hear that "POP". That's just how they come off.

So CO no clutch puller needed? My impact and a hammer will do the trick? Few more pics, of where I’m at currently. Replacement trans came today, so maybe get it back up and running without missing much time.

Anyone have a pink spring for sale for a comet 102c? Would like to replace the clutch at this time as well.

You need something like that push rod.

I don't fully recommend doing this but you may be able to set up a home-made push rod out of 1/4" drive deep sockets (One that is .4" and another one or two more which are .5") and POSSIBLY the stock clutch bolt. Make sure the sockets slide all the way in and seat and without putting force against any threads. Also you don't want those guys getting stuck in there. Just make sure you have something like a couple small washers to not mar up the bolt or shaft, and use a lube on all pieces involved. I did without an impact and my drive clutch came off quick and easy.

Also since you are taking the drive clutch off, and likely have never done so before - its a good time to pressure check your Engine and even carefully replace without marring anything up - the clutch-side Engine seal. I like to use Threebond 1211 silicone around the OUTSIDE of the new seal, and Marine grease just around the shaft, seal spring, and seal lips. This ensures a longer lasting seal than one dry assembled.

Thx for the help!

Did you get a chance to pull this transmission apart yet ?? Pics ??

Some additional pictures. I did just purchase a complete trans, it’s in the cart as of last night but didn’t realize as I was taking the damaged one out, one of the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) to trans mounts was bent some crazy! That mount, is the mount next to the driven pulley (again leads me to believe it was the belt). Currently I have straightened that mount the best I can, and everything tightened up. I have ordered two mounts, and will replace the damaged one when they arrive.

In the process of removing the axles, I had to torch one of the axle mounting bolts pretty good, I ordered a new u joint just to be safe (think it got too hot and may have lost all its grease). Do I need an arbor press to properly install the new u joint, or can I do it carefully with a vice? Thx again all.