Good afternoon guys. First let me start with I apologize if I sound stupid. Have worked on many things but not many CVT setups. I recently picked up 2 350 rollers along with 1 formula 500 and a Yamaha 600 Snowmobile. (Not sure if i plan to or if it can be used) Currently working on swapping in the rotax. Got the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounted, exhaust done and have a question regarding the drive clutch. I know the rotax belt and primary are wider. I see that Farr off-road includes in their kit a "drive clutch spacer". Currently of course my belt is sitting 1/4 too high or so and wondering how wide this spacer needs to be and how I would go about getting this thing apart. Again I apologise for lack of knowledge, have always loved the oddy and just looking for some help regarding clutches. Thanks in advance.

I’m likely going to be in the minority with my feedback. 1/4 inch high.... I’d run it, I changed my secondary by adding a spacer and had no issues, I then swapped the secondary for an unmodified unit out of curiosity, the belt ran a bit more than 1/4 high and the acceleration was better, I’ve never flipped a belt and I still run the unmodified unit to this day. Belt life does not seem to be heavily impacted either.
I have 583 rotax in a pilot.
Regards welcome and post some pics please.

Thanks for the reply. Not many pics currently but this was shortly after I picked them up. Caught them both for $900 down in Tampa (18 hour ride there and back) both were fairly complete minus motors. I'll grab some more pics soon. On your 583 are you running the stock primary?

Once they made it back to the shop

Welcome new guy.
I would also run it and see how it works out.
Also I see that those machines seems to have the stock rear shocks and springs. You are going to find that the stock rear suspension is non existent and you will hurt your back. The shocks are ok but Honda made a major boo boo on the rear spring rate. It is WAY to stiff. Not sure how big you are or how much weight that Engine adds but I would buy a set of #170 (approx) after market springs.
Note: you can NOT just bolt on some after market shocks and springs or you will get u-joint bind. The max is 15 1/4" eye to eye. You can run longer but you have to modify the u-joint yokes. There is a thread on this site about it.
Keep us posted on your progress and don't be cheap with any pics.

There are no stupid questions here, this ain't facebook.
We got a good crew here.
We are here to help.
The site is a bit slow as many older members no longer around but there is still a tremendous amount of info here. Use the search box. Sometimes it is just faster to ask though.

Big thanks guys. Will update as I go with pics. Hope to get radiator plumbed up(banshee) and fan (zx600) (along with the rest of the harness) wired up next weekend. Don't have a tank yet so will be on the hunt. I did a 440 swap on one 8-10 years ago and although it ran well it was just kinda thrown together. Really wanting both to be reliable machines that we can take out with the sxs. For now I will try the drive clutch as is and see how it does. Aiming to get them both running, driving, stopping, turning. Once we get there they will get tore down and get bearings, bushings, shocks, paint plastics etc.

I am running the stock Doo primary and the Doo belt too.

How did your swaps come out? Did you use the stock carbs from the sled motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )). I have a 583 I will be swapping into one of my fl350s. I'm trying to figure out if the carbs will work from it.

sled carbs will interfere with the trans, I believe Farr makes a manifold extension, it seems to put the carbs along ways from the rotory valve, I run watercraft setup on my 670, seems to work fine, there are several different setups, the one I'm using puts the jet access plates facing the back for better access. I had to modify the pump cover to face the right direction.

To clarify... the clutch spacer that Farr Includes in the kit is to space the clutch away from the gearbox and line up the driven clutch with the drive clutch (using his Engine mount). It is not installed within your driven clutch. The spacer itself is 3/8"

Are you using the FL350 belt or the sled belt? You should be using the FL350 belt

Good afternoon Guys,

Been a long time since I have posted or even been able to work on the Oddys. Have been caught up with moving and work. Finally got back around to working on the rotax conversion in last couple of days but the other is still sitting in the shop. Right now I have the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) mounted, radiator, electrical and exhaust all done as previously stated. I am looking to swap over to a marine setup for the carbs as they are interfering with the transmission and leaves no room for air cleaner setup. Never the less I was able to take it out and drive it around the yard for the first time yesterday and while it ran fairly well it seems like it has absolutely no topend. Lots of low end grunt but just seems like alot of rpm and no go. I don't think my alignment of the clutches is perfect but is fairly close. I've been google searching regarding how to line up but no real good write ups. Can someone explain? Guess I'm just a little confused with where to line the secondary up on the primary? Also trying to figure out how loose my belt needs to be? Currently I am running the sled primary, sled belt and oddy secondary. Unfortunately I trashed the sled during the move and no longer have the sled secondary but could order one if needed.

Sorry for the long post and will create a new thread being as this one is so old if neccessary.

http://www.amsnow.com/how-to-tech/2005/ ... -alignment

Sled guys are the masters at this. They have some aggressive clutch setups that don’t devour belts.