So i havnt been able to work on my oddy for a while or even comment and post here, work and life stuff made free time and garage space rare. But i did manaage to get my buggy running good, kinda, i got vforce reed and reed spacer, k&n filter with a sock as prefilter lol i couldnt figure out what was going on with my carb but a local shop got it working for me good, so i got it home today, and took my first ride in a long time... my dad took it for a spin and in 40 seconds he rolled it. Ugh, so before i take it out again i want to make sure nothing is screwed up... from the naked eye everything is good, he drove it to the garage 50 yards away real slow like, and i didnt hear anything bad and it looked fine but again, i wanr to play safe here, So what should i be looking for? I couldnt find any good threads using the search on post-roll maintenance. I know i should look EVERYTHING over and make sure its all properly torqued down, aswell as put it on stands and check travel and camber probably. Anything else to keep an eye out for?

Still need to put my plastics back on but shes still pretty :)

Looks good to go to me. I would air-out that back left tire and get the crud out of the rim/bead. You wouldn't want that to work its way in too much and cause an unsealed bead.

Yeah haha that one got a mouthful, it was a very slow roll so idt there should be any damage... but this is the first gooood ride iv had in a while and the first time its ever ran reliably... so im babying it lol

looks good

But the Rear shocks ????

Check length of the shock looks to long, Looks like there will be UNI joint
binding and will start to break axles.

Or is the top stay arm adjust way out

Axles are not aligned will create vibration / Hum

Also the from the rear the left trailing arm looks bent

see pics

top pic see the top arm Stay adjuster
bottom pic run a straight edge along the seam needs to straight

PS hope the roll did not damage it and also it was your DAD and not you
that rolled it which is a plus for YOU


wyeeoddy

So this is what i did...

I measured everything at full extension, and everything is straight, same length of travel on both sides.

OH and I forgot, I’m running fox air shocks in combo with the bolt mounting kit CurtisR made. Just so you know I didn’t just slap some shocks on there without doing any research lol. Which btw I’ll do a review on it soon Curtis, this is such a huge improvement over stock shocks... the shocks had nothing to do with my dads erratic driving haha.

Pulled the dirt out the rim and filled it back up, it was such a slow roll I think the worst damage it suffered was the mirror needs re adjusting.

Anything else to beware of? Look good or did I miss something?

Actually rolling and oddy is real easy. My brother rolled his twice in one day.
I am pretty sure I know how your dad did it. He was hard on the gas to try to spin the oddy around and then when it came around he let off on the gas (wrong) and it hooked a wheel. Over it goes.
That's what my brother did and I actually witnessed it on the second roll of the day. I was only a few feet away.

Yeah that's exactly what happened, looking at the tracks his outer tire also sunk into a hole seemingly at the same time he let off throttle. Probably wouldv been fine had he powered through it.

Squibward

Settle down LOL
I never said slapped on

QUOTE"""Check length of the shock looks to long, Looks like there will be UNI joint
binding and will start to break axles.

Or is the top stay arm adjust way out """"

see attached extract from FL350 Service manual

wyeeoddy

These are the arms now set to 6.4”-6.5”
That look better? The left arm was at bout 5.9-6” before i fixed it so it was too positive of camber... these fox airs are 1/2” longer than stock btw.
Is this what your talking about?

You are also selectively reading some of wyeeoddy's comments.
He also said your axels are out of phase --- I agree.
Furthermore I see no shock savers on your machine.
Your gona destroy a nice set of fox air's if you blow a u-joint.

Im not being selective... intentionally, im just not experianced mechanically at all so im trying to attack one thing at a time to make sence of it haha

So what exactly do you mean out of phase? The axles are not aligned?

And yes i really need to make up some shock savers before i take it out of my yard.

Not experienced mechanically -- ok got it.
Just in case ------- please don't take anything I say the wrong way -- I am a heavy industry millwright and we are not exactly politically correct type of people. Neanderthal comes to mind.

wyeeoddy drew a red line across one of those pictures that shows what he was talking about. If you look at your axels you will see that one axel yoke does not line up with the other axel yoke on the other side. They are not straight in line. If they're not aligned they could cause a vibration. Look at your picture you just posted with your machine up on the jacks. You can see it very clear. The one of the yokes is turned more than the other one on the other side -- they don't line up.
Also I bet most people don't pull their axels once a year to re-grease the splines.
Greasing the splines is real important as well as replacing those bolts that hold your axels onto the transmission. I bet big money the bolts are damaged some on almost everyone's machine. I use grade 8 bolts.

Got it, i wont be offended, if you were ‘politically correct’ id ignore you more than i do buzzfeed headlines lol

Ok its more clear to me now what yall meant about the axles, ill get the straight edges and levels out tomorrow, so if its turned in more on one side... adjusying the camber would correct it? What would?
Im going to re-paint the rear arms so ill pull the axle offf if i can to check it like you said

Also his pic was with the oddy under load, should i be adjusting and measuring under load on a level surface? Or while on jacks... i thought you were supposed to adjust when at full extension
As was mentioned these shocks are half inch longer than stock, and i have the upper arms adjusted to 6.4” from eye to eye, per the manual pic, im assuming these longer shocks are going to change the default settings on that measurement... probably need to bring it out farther to maybe 6.8” ish to make it a more neutral camber? Is this making sense, is my reasoning right? Lol

Noooooooooooooooo -------- your totally missing it.
Lets try again.
Stand at the back of the machine or look at that picture.
Look at the left axel and note where the u-joint cap hole is located.
Now look at the Right side axel u-joint.
If you draw a straight line across the back of the machine from one axel to the other you will see that one axel is turned more than the other.
It has NOTHING TO DO WITH YOUR CAMBER. It's just the alignment of both axels to each other.

Edit: If you look at that last pic you posted you can see that the yoke on the left axel is almost straight up/down and the right axel is turned more clockwise.

OHHHH ok i now i got it bahaha. So how do i correct that?

Lord i wasn't even close to seeing what you guys meant haha sorry be patient with me please.

Basically you pull one axel and turn it to line up.

You remove the two nuts located on the two bolts that hold the axel onto the transmission. They're just lock nuts. (you must remove these two lock nuts BEFORE you try to unscrew the bolts)
Then you unscrew the two bolts.
Pull the axel -- re-grease the splines -- install correctly.

Greasing the splines is very important because if they get rusty you will destroy your splines. They will just wear out prematurely.

Edit: You will have to remove your shock as well to do this job.

Ok will do, good catch guys, i noticed that the axles wernt symmetrical but i wouldv never thought a thing of it.

I gotta put my plastics back on so shocks gotta come off anyway, and if im pulling this much apart i might aswell paint the arms, although question about this.

You have to take the nut off the bottom first with an impact wrench if you have one.
Then take the bolts out. You may have to use a punch and a hammer to tap them out. The bolt holes may be full of sand and crap. Everything in this area is a snug fit.
Make sure you don't mix up the left and right sides. The steps in the aluminum part are different so that they will only fit on the correct side.
Yes everything is stupid tight in this area -- it has to be.

No they are not left hand thread. They are standard right hand.

don't have an impact wrench so ill see what i can do here, think i got a gameplan now so ill update tomorrow.

Re the Toe in on the rear wheel just check for a thick washer
between the Rod end and the frame on both sides.

See parts break down Number 22 check its there if missing will affect
toe in.

The ruler on the trailing arm looks good there is a tweak but all good.


wyeeoddy

Can confirm wyeeoddy, big washers are there, checked manual as i pulled it apart, all parts are there.
Got the axles and housing off and apart, had rough time wothout the impact wrench but it came off, going to clean and and paint... also bearings need replaced, all but one was locked up entirely. Was some rust u can see in pics, need cleaned. No sign of any healthy grease anywhere so glad i havnt put much time into running it around yet. Haha. All bolts and nuts were in good condition though, dirty but no rust so imma do a deep clean on all that.

As much as i don't want too the rotor needs cleaned and the rear caliper should probably be taken off and inspected, it works fine but since everything else in that area is off.. might aswell be thourough

STOP
If the rear brake works DON'T TOUCH IT

Take it off the frame DON'T undo the brake line AS there a SH!T to re bleed

But I would just hit it with a pressure wash and some good de greaser
and keep a eye on it first

Mate Little steps

looks like water has got into the axle carriers Yes replace all bearing and seals
with good ones

wyeeoddy