Also, The leaking seal didn't help the Engine.

It’s been almost a year since I bought the fl350. Working one of them and getting close now. It’s been a very slow project but that’s okay no real rush. I found a different kind of way to get the rust out of the tank. My good friend had a VFD, motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) we hooked the tank up to it and I put 1/2 of a coffee can of blast media in it. I’m happy with the way it’s cleaning in up. Everyone has been very helpful. Vacuum and pressure checks are good. Just a little worried about the electric fuel pump seem people have had different outcomes using these.

That's a brilliant idea with the gas tank. Good one.

I am the one that had the issue with the electric fuel pump.
We blew up my brothers Engine because the pump stopped and Engine leaned out.
He was not happy about it and he wasn't driving it. Beer Poacher was and he's not experienced running these machines. He didn't know what to look for or feel in the azz dyno. My brother would have noticed an issue and let off.
At the end of the day I have two machines running the electric pumps and they run fine. My brothers machine has a vacuum pump. He demands it.
The electric pumps seem to be fine but the one that we had issues with had problems from the get go. When I installed it and tried to load machine on the trailer it would not start up and pump. When I tapped it with a screwdriver it started right up. I thought it was good. I thought wrong.
These electric pumps are fine I think but if you have ANY issues with it right out of the box then toss it out. It's junk. If no issues out of the box you're good.
CO

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Baahahahahahhahaha --- sorry I couldn't help myself.
CO

Rebuilt new Honda piston and rings, reed valves, seals and other things! 140# compression
Every set according to the manual 3 gallons rec gas and 1 gallon racing gas 110 octane
32:1 oil. Plug is wet no brownish colored plug. Does run well for the most part. Does seem to be a thirty little bugger on the fuel! I’m used to my xr 400’s modest fuel consumption. It’s has the 142 jet on the 3rd needle setting. Should I leave it as is or try to lean it out?

I'm no expert at plug reading but there are threads on the subject, basically you do a good power run, I think about 15-20 seconds, don't quote me, then kill the Engine and coast to a stop, not sure if you can pop it into neutral but you don't want the Engine turning if you can help it. the area of the plug to read in down on the inside on the porcelain this is the area that tell what it's doing, the coloration on the plug will give you an idea of what is going on, tan is good, oily and carboned up is not good but also could just be an indicator that you need to change plugs, white is not good and if you see aluminum deposits, well you may need a new piston at that point.
I prefer to be on the rich side of jetting, it may not be running at it's peak performance but it also lives longer, you will notice a difference on those cool days that it runs better, that is better than noticing aluminum on your plug.
now if racing, then tune for max performance at the track and plan to rejet the next time out, temperature and altitude make a difference.

oh, what were we talking about? make sure you are not too lean to start with and you can be rich in one area of the jetting and lean in another, Zeroclient has some good info using an O2 sensor.

To do a proper plug reading you have to do a plug chop.
This is done by cutting the threads off the plug to expose the insulator.
Or you could do what I have done a long time ago and cut the metal crimp area at the top near the hex and then pull the whole insulator out the top.
The smoke ring will tell you your jetting.
CO

Yes they are thirsty little buggers but it depends on where you ride, your oil mix, your carb, your jetting.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17001&hilit=fuel+mileage
CO