Was on utube a few months ago and came across some cool videos. A few weeks go by and I get a call from my uncle in Florida. He met a guy there that has 3 odesseys in barn for the last 25 Year’s. Now their in my barn. 1 is a pre recall and the other 2 are post recall. They all ran when he put them away.
Drained all the crappy gas out of the tanks. The one that I started working on will need the pick up tubes redone or I will have to tap into drain plug for fuel. I absolutely am not going to try run any of these with out checking out all the things that may need fixing. Little confused about pressure check stuff. Took exhaust of to have a look at the piston. I’m sure it’s going to need a bore and piston and exhaustbridge relief done. I realize parts are not easy to get. But these things are so darn cool. I’m planning on having a his and hers for the dunes. Silver lake here in Michigan. I’m seriously thinking water cooled heads also. Plan is to have dependable toys here that won’t get beat on to badly. It seems that some of the guys here do cylinder boring. Not trying to get anything for free here. I just want the work done correctly by a knowledgeable person. Do you guys recommend any place for this job. Have not had a chance to check the other 2 cylinders and piston conditions out yet. I need to do the crank case vents also. Lots to do
Thanks!
Rick

Welcome new guy.

Oh my I see some very nice machines there.
I see seats that are not damaged.
I see stickers that are not worn off -- this indicates low hrs.
I see stop switch, seat belts and wrist restraints that are not sun faded so this indicates they were indoors.
I see fenders in perfect condition and this indicates also kept indoors.
I see top frames that are straight which indicates they have not been rolled.
VERY VERY nice score there.

You seem to know a lot already about these machines.
Below is a pdf on pressure checking the Engine. This needs to be done because if you have an air leak you WILL blow an Engine.
As for Engine bore jobs I would go member Methodical.
Sometimes he is hard to get a hold of but just PM (private message) him here on this site.
I think he is on fagbook as well but not sure as I don't have an acct there.
I also see stock fuel pumps there. You must do a flow check. You need about 4.5oz in 10 seconds using the starter (no ignition).
One more important suggestion ------------ AVGAS ----- you have been warned.
CO

First- I hate you for finding 3 awesome looking Odysseys in Florida and taking them to Michigan..

Second- Yes I'm a sore loser living in Florida...lol

Third- Congrats, nice find.

No they were in mi the guy was down there for the winter!

My gosh man. Those are beauties! Congrats on an amazing find. An amazing amount of knowledgeable people and information here. Looking forward to seeing you get them going!

Sitting so long I’d expect the crank bearings have been rusting for years. Unless the machines were put away with some kind of fogging oil I would assume this to be the case. Check the crank. It should not be rusted. If it’s brown, Tare her down for new bottom bearings.

Well that makes me feel a little better, but I'm still jealous..lol

said they were fogged. I guess we will see

Wow Score!. Ive taken NOS bearings out of the package and they have shelf wear even tho they were pre lubed. be sure to check with others here on how to properly check big rod bearings too. Wow I m jealous Congrats. I had the most fun in my FL350's, I think because they were the underdog at the dunes

wow, what a find. those are Mint condition.

Pick up tubes were rusted badly so I took them out of the tank. Can anyone share a picture of the set that you have switched to on your tanks?

Thank you!

Aren't the pick up tubes soldered in place ??
I don't own a pilot but the oddy ones can not be removed as far as I know.
How did you get them out ?? Pictures please ??
On my FL350 oddys I tapped the drain plugs and pull fuel from there.
CO

Drill out 2 hole for pick up tubes. Pull and twist out rusted lines with long needle nose pliers. Insert 1/4” break lines into holes and solder. Just go from the plug on the bottom? What’s the better plan?

Nobody has done it your way because of the explosion hazard.
Your fuel tanks haven't seen fuel in centuries so it's probably safe and better to do the brake line thing.
It would look better too.
On my machines I pull fuel from the plug but the issue is filtration. You need some kind of screen on the inside to prevent the hole from getting plugged up with rust and other crap. This will starve the pump of fuel. I back blow my tanks once a year at the beginning of riding season. It just one of those regular maintenance things now, just like doing pressure/vacuum tests.
Go with the brake lines. Just my opinion.
CO

A good soap and water cleaning will eliminate any explosion risk. Welded plenty of old motorcycle gas tanks.

Are you getting the pickup and reserve filters out with the old tubes?

Yes everything is out was hoping to work on it today but had other priorities and things to fix.
I order. Water cooled head for it off eBay I just want it to be as dependable as I can make it.
I might have a little time to work on it tomorrow. I have a few ideas for the tubes.

Spent few days up at silver lake dunes. Lots of vehicles and various toys up there. Not on pilot or odyssey to be found! Looking forward to next year. Finally found the air leak behind the flywheel seal. Should have the new seals here in a day or 2. If the leaks are all taken care of I will be able to pull the jug and get it bored. Looking at methodicals posts with his odyssey does anyone know what radiator he uses. I haven’t received a reply back from him about this. I have my new pick up tubes made I hope this works out

Very nice job on that fuel tank. Well done.
Not sure what rad Meth runs but I think many run banshee rads, but don't quote me on that.
I run radiators from a Honda civic.
CO

YFZ 450 rads for Methodical Fabricator. He gave me the link when I got mine. I shot Rick the link. Here it is if anyone else might need it. Radiator and fan to your door for $55.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2009-Yamaha-YFZ450-YFZ-450-Radiator-fan-cap-hoses-sensor-04-05-06/271176485522?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Most common (I believe) is Yamaha Banshee radiator. I used one on my 250. On the 350 the biggest/best cooling in my opinion is the Civic radiator that CO, myself, and others run. I believe bigger the better, and keep it inside the cage to avoid punctures.

Piston is kind of chewed up!

May I be so bold as to ask you to re-read my first comment in this thread.
I am not trying to be an A--hole.
I'm just trying to save you grief and $$$.

You may have noticed that Honda only made the FL350 for one year.
Why is that ??

They had so many recalls on this thing they gave up ------ and we are talking the Japanese here !!
One of the deadly flaws was putting an air cooled Engine directly behind a seat. Who was the moron that came up with that idea ??
The problem here is that the intake charge temperature will be elevated and this causes the fuel to detonate. Your piston got real hot obviously didn't it ?? Also the fuel of today is not the same stuff we had in 1985.
The fuel issue on this site is a hotly contested belief.
I run straight avgas but in reality the oddy only needs a very small bump in octane because pump gas is just not enough. I used to mix mine 50/50 pump/avgas but I don't anymore because it's just a hassle. You could probably mix it 75/25 if you want to save money.
Don't waste your money on octane booster in a can. It don't work.
How do I know all of this ??
See pic below.
CO

That piston blew because of the lack of exhaust bridge relief. Look that up for your rebuild

Yes I see what you are looking at now.
Yeah that didn't help things much either.
It also looks like that is an original 78mm piston.
CO