This may be completely unrelated, but I remember you mentioned in another thread that your brothers machine had developed a vibration. Was that issue figured out?

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18587
Engine was in perfect working order when I put the electric pump on.
CO

I have a bad memory.lol

CO, do you have a stock or aftermarket filter? last year I had some fueling issues myself, I had an aftermarket filter and it used a plastic screen, it seemed to work great but when I pulled the supply line off the carb, it was barely a dribble, remover the element and all was good, I think it was that the level in the tank was low so it did not have much head pressure pushing it through, tank is above the carb. with the stock tank it needs to pull through the filter, just something to consider.
On the watercraft carbs there is an internal filter on them, still if those plug, your Ded. I need to find me a stainless filter element and try, get a piece of FOD in the pulse pump reeds and it will not pump well.

Well there's yourrrrr problem !!!!

If you look close at the first two pics you can see that both front cylinder nuts are missing .

In the next pic you can see some melted aluminum in the exhaust port. Ohhhh so far not good.

In the next pic you can see that the studs were snapped off and there is no sign the studs were fractured prior to this. You can also see the piston just started to melt.

In the next pic you can see lot of oil on the crank and the piston. Even at 50/1 there is lots of lube.

Next pic of the top of piston.

Next two pics will be the top of each broken stud that shows NO prior fractures.

More pics

Clearly what has happened here is that there was a lean out and a detonation.
This detonation busted the studs on the cylinder and then it was all over.
Beer poacher told me he was a wide open throttle and there was an explosion, Engine died, and he was surrounded by tons of smoke he said.

Today I took a compression test and it still had 125 lbs compression. Normally this Engine has 175 psi.

Also during this ride he shredded a belt -- see pic below.

So at the end of the day I am angry the new electric pump failed but the damage to the Engine was minimal. The way beer poacher described what happened I thought for sure a hole in the piston at best and at worst a blown con rod bearing. The rings are not seized in the ring lands and the piston is still usable. No blown con rod either.
So all I have to do is clean it up and replace the studs.
CO

Holy cow! Broke the studs. I can't believe that. Glad to see you looking on the bright side. I am still tempted to give these pumps a go.

I'm going to start this post with a disclaimer..lol You clearly have way more experience and knowledge about this Engine than I do, I'm only asking the following questions because I don't understand your order of events.

I'm confused how detonation would break the studs? Wouldn't the piston be the weak link? Or even the aluminum threads in the case?

With vertical force being applied to the stud, wouldn't the aluminum threads that hold the studs in the case fail before the steel stud?

Unless I'm totally misunderstanding you, you're saying the detonation applied enough vertical force to stretch the studs past their breaking point? I believe that is the exact direction the stud is strongest, other than crush.

Please take no offense at this next question, but how many times have you reused those studs? I only ask because you've rebuilt a lot of engines. Is it possible the studs were the initial failure point?

I could almost see the damage to the piston being cause by the cylinder rocking back and forth. The broken studs would no longer be holding the cylinder in place and that would also cause a huge vacuum leak.

No offense taken.
I am grabbing at straws here.
I think the lean out may have caused the air/fuel to detonate well before it was suppose to.
Kind of like advancing the timing by a lot. I have to check the seals now to make sure it didn't blow one out. The reeds look ok.
As for your comment on the studs -- Yes it could have pulled it out of the aluminum threads but the weakest link will always break first. It's possible the threads were already stretched with all these Engine rebuilds. There is NO sign there was an issue with the stud so once again I am grabbing at straws. I will be replacing all 4 of them. I just got lucky that I didn't hole a piston. It did start to melt though and that's why there is some aluminum build up in the exhaust port and the rough texture on the top of the piston.
Beer poacher said he was at wide open throttle and there was an explosion and then he was surrounded by tons of smoke.
CO

I'm still very weary of those electric pumps.If you watched latest video Terry H posted you can see a trail of fuel coming from his ody when he pulls in into trailer{I believe it was scpilot66}who noticed this on Facebook.Terry said it was puking fuel out of the vent,he will investigate further

Appears to me the issue is the float is to high in the carb. I'll pull it later this week. I've run it at my house and around my neighborhood just about every day since with no issue.

The pilot jet is too fat so changing that as well as a general inspection. I don't think the fuel out the vent is pump related. This is a brand new 35mm Air Striker carb so still in need of general tuning.

Well let's hope so,we'd all like these pumps to succeed so there's another option out there

Google search tells me that the Air Striker carbs with all these multiple vents have a habit of puking fuel. We will see. I've also contacted JetsRus where I bought the carb. I'll repport back but I can almost guarantee you this is something to do with the carb not the fuel pump.

I have to agree with Terry on this one. It's probably the carb. My machines don't leak fuel but we run the flat slide 102's on our machines. Only the death machine has a stock round slide and it don't leak either. However the death machine has not been on a run with this pump yet. No leak just idling. Still have to figure out my electrical problem on it.
CO

just bumping this ahead of the spam

My brother and I did some searching on the net looking at star ratings on these electric pumps.
Not good. Many one, two and three star ratings.
Lots of comments on pumps lasting only one year, one month or dead on arrival.
Apparently I got one DOA. So we're looking at 33% failure rate. Keep an eye on it if you buy one.
Looks like the ratings were three star average for these.
I also saw an entire page of disclaimers on these electric pumps. EG: Not responsible for nothing. NOT LIABLE FOR ANY REPAIRS ---- blah blah blah. You get the message right ??
CO

Maybe a Kawi pump would be more reliable? IIRC my old zx6 was a 1996 that had the same style pump.

Did a little tuning tonight. Floats were way to high. Ran the crap out of it after rejetting and getting the floats adjusted properly. Not a drop out the vents now.

I don't know of any component manufacturer that pays for damage resulting from component failure. They may replace the component but that's about it. To be frank, any manufacturer would be foolish to do anything different.

Yeah I can understand that too.
If they had to pay costs it would bankrupt any company.
At the end of the day it's buyer beware. It's the capitalist way.

I am reminded of a true story.
My dad bought an Engine from Canada Engines. Several in fact, over the years.
This re&re shop sold my dad an Engine for his Ford van. About 6 months later they call him and tell him to bring it in for new valve seals. They said they got a bad batch of seals and had several failures. The old man who own this business told my dad that he would never do a recall again. Customers went crazy on him about the recall. He said all he was trying to do was the right thing rather than let customer engines burn oil or blow. He said he would never do a recall again. Can you blame him ??
Now his punk kid took over and it's a shyt show. I here many bad stories. I will never buy an Engine from them again. I had a bad Engine from them for my Ford F150. Run it one day and had oil in the rad.
I heard they just pressure wash auto wrecker engines and sell them as a rebuild now.
CO

I hear ya CO. It's a daily battle in our shop. Customer comes in with a dent in the rear bumper cover. We replace the cover. Detail the car for free. The second he walks in to pick it up he says, "You didn't fix my windshield." Spends 30 minutes on the phone with the insurance company trying to convince them that a rock flew up from the back bumper and broke the windshield. End result is it's all my fault that he didn't get a new windshield. Every day someone or some number of someone's are in my shop trying to get something for nothing. We're being forced to review every scratch, dent and ding on the entire car, mark them all and photograph them all, research any warning lights in the dash and on and on before we even move the car out of the parking lot.

I hear that same story from my buddy who works at the local auto repair shop.

Quote: "Spends 30 minutes on the phone with the insurance company trying to convince them that a rock flew up from the back bumper and broke the windshield."

Baahahahahahahahhahahaha
CO

Edit: He sometimes brings me customer exhaust manifolds to weld up (stainless steel).
Nobody else does that around here so I do it for free. Have done more that half a dozen already.
Ian told me that if we didn't weld it up it's a $1200 bill just for parts . Apparently the catalytic converter and this manifold are one piece on some vehicles. One time he brought the whole customer car to my house LOL.
CO

This K&N pump might be another option. I'm sure this style will run all the time though and might need a return line. Meets rating at 5oz/10seconds

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/knn- ... /overview/