so I broke a shock on my last outing. had to carve a piece of burnt tree limb to fit. haha you laugh but it got me home. so I am now contemplating new fox shocks or a complete rebuild on my works shocks. there are triple rate with a rezzy. is there still replacement parts for these shocks out there? having trouble finding anything.

Last I checked (March), Works was re-opened and servicing shocks as well as building new ones again, same old phone number.

EDIT: Also how did you drill the holes in the wood while on the trail?

This is the gentleman that I sent my front works shocks to get serviced, after they had closed.

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17883

I know it gets expensive to ship parts back and forth between USA and Canada. He would probably sell you the parts to do it yourself.

I have sold over 25 kits for the Fox 2.0 shocks but I am all out at the moment. I am having more made. Let me know if you go that route.

-Curtis

that is some awesome work getting home. great job!

I just kept twisting the knife till I made it all the way through. took some time but there wasn't much else to do.


wasn't sure if it was gonna work but had nothing to lose


so what is everyone thinking on the fox, are they valved righted, any comparison to these and works

I have Works on one buggy, Fox 2.0 on another... cant beat the price to performance of the Fox but a better shock than Works it is not.
Coil overs I find work the best.

Ok thanks. I’ll probably stick with the works and rebuild them

Well said and I agree 100%.

Got the shocks all tore down. Tried contacting schmidty for parts but they never called me back. So I called works. He has to make the new shafts but has everything else that I need. His seal kits are a bit more pricey but at least I know they are the right ones. My reservoir bladders are in good shape and don’t leak so I’m not replacing them.

So how much does it cost to get the shaft ;-)

Haha. The shafts are $45 a piece.

so I have rebuilt these and it worked out well..one shock does seem softer than the other, not sure why.
I wasn't sure how to put the cross over rings back in. I just talked to works, and after preload is set, the top spring should have about 3/8' gap before is hits its stops, the second spring, should have 1/2-5/8's, so I need to pull them apart and redo this..also I might change oil and check to see if I did anything wrong in the one shock to see why its softer. need around 2" of sag according to works which seems like a lot to me.

I still seem to bottom out to easy, if you watch some of my jumping vids, and you can feel it on a trail when you hit a whoop section

adnoh
the short springs measure 1.8" and are 900lb, the big sring is 7.1" and he said around 215lb. wire diameter is .312 without powder coat.
the valving he said you can't do much about, as there are 4 holes and there are 3 small springs and balls in them.

Here is what I come up with as a base line. What this does is show poundage at shaft. This does factor in any up or down travel poundage based on sag or ride height. That is a different sheet.

What I like to do to establish a sprung weight to go further is place the known 210 rate on the machine at zero preload. Basically run that nut down until it touches the single 210 spring and put on machine set in it and have some one measure the shaft length. with the shaft travel we get a sprung weight to do more with. lets say you have a 5.5" shaft travel. Then you measure the shaft and have 4 at ride height with rider. that is 1.5" of shaft at 210 or sprung weight of 210 x 1.5=315 lbs of force acting on the spring without a bunch of math crunching. Now we can look at the numbers from the pic and evaluate what to do with out big guesses. Its fun to play with

Remember this is just what I come up with. I'm not a professional in any way.

If you look in the pic at the 2" pre load you will see that the 2" + the .181 of an inch (314.84 lbs) has used up your ride height sprung weight # so you will be at a shaft travel of .2 or so. That's not good. remember this is just an example base on a made up sprung weight number.

Now compare this to the zero preload pic. Spring 1 and 2 are at .625 travel and 103.95 lbs. Your next rate is 212.101 per inch of shaft. 314-103.95=210.05 So your ride height would be close to 1.625 inch of shaft travel. You see this is a little more than the sprung weight # of 1.5 inches of shaft at 210 IN/lb/ Rate.

With this information you can make changes in the spreed sheet on spring and rate to get desired BOP Bottom out poundage and Ride height as well as a shaft force rate per inch and graph it out. You do not want a low ride height and large BOP at a fixed valving that can not be adjusted. It will be a very harsh ride.
Now look at the shaft at bumper and the rates involved to BOP you will see where a progressive rate will smooth out the portion of shaft travel verses a liner or straight rate per inch. This will reduce the harshness from bumper to BOP and proved a greater BOP as well maintaining a good ride. Since your valving so called can not change. This is where with a shim stake you can add a flutter stack and pick of the higher shaft speed and smooth out the hit and maintain a good ride. A hard landing is just as bad a g-out or sharp edge hit like a cross rut they yield a very high shaft speed.

There is a minor error in the first pic.
Here is a pic to compare to the zero preload and linear rate bumper. This time I used a progressive know rate.
Added 225 pounds to BOP and smoothed out the hit in rate per inch. If we only knew what the stock was.

so is a hight BOP a good thing, i am not sure what that all means..
right now I have my adjustable clickers turned all the way in, and rezzy pressure at 250 or 270 can't remember

As far as the bottom out poundage goes. There two ways to look at. The rate the dampener (shock) compresses at can be controlled by valving and spring load.
With spring load it's pretty straight forward. The more load you place on it the further it compresses based on it's rate(s). The same is true with valving however the velocity (how fast the shaft travels) plays a role in the compression rate.

So we either add spring rate to resist the load being applied or valving to resist the shaft traveling through the fluid or a combination of both.
Since the adjuster is full shut which could be zero bypass into the rezzi. The fluid is under what pressure you have it set at. The valve piston has to move thru pressurized fluid. Having pressurized help keep the positive side and the negatives side close to the same pressure. As it sets the fluid on top and under the valve is at the same pressure. As it code intro bump travel( compression) the shaft moves up into the body. The fluid passes thru bleed and valving based on shaft velocity. With slow movement the two pressure zones stay pretty close. On bump the top has move positive and the bottom goes toward negative. Low pressure volume in the rezzy will allow for a greater transference of fluid into the rezzy which can create a vacume(- pressure) on the back side of the valve with a high shaft velocity. This momentarily pushes fluid into the rezzy until the pressure is equalized n way of rezzy,top side of valve and then the under side of the valve .
As mentioned above you rezzy is most likely darn near shut off so the valving is at maximum. Now it's up the piston valve to control the piston through the pressurized fluid. With the spring and ball with a fixed orifice. At high shaft velocity that is all you get in way of resistance to shaft movement.
This why they do dyno sheets to see what the shock does at it's fixed settings.
You have to have movement in the shaft at high velocity or it locks up and breaks.
Now can see why some racer's used two shocks for hard landings. They could not get enough valving in one shock with out locking it up and breaking it or you.

Some an increase in spring poundage at it end zone will help. However you can not go to far or you might as well not even have one.
That is why I would recommend a better bottom out bumper with a higher rate if you happy with the rest of the shock. Is works says it can not go more on the valving it is most likely due to it is already at max.
Pre load does influence bottom out total rate as well as when the first and second spring go solid or cross over. You do need some down travel at ride height so be careful on adding to much preload. I think I would change crossover rates as well.
To sum up, stiffer bottom out bumper, set a good ride height 20 to 30% cross over sooner and back off your compression adjuster a click or two.

If you want to check your shocks. Take off the spring put on end in a vise and set you compression Adjuster at zero. Then stoke the shaft slowly and get a fell for it. Then push as hard as you can and fell the diff. Then repeat going full closed on the adjuster. You will fell the diff. If not something is wrong inside the shock and or rezzy. If good put shocks on bike with springs. Set rezzy full open and cycle by moving the suspension. And the full adjust and see. The bike should darn near not compress if at full closed on adjuster and shock topped out. The pressure should hold it up with little bleed. The push it down slowly and then harshly.
Not you got a fell for it as long as the shocks are good. Depending on what fluid you used and it's weight. You may be able to go heavier and gain some valving as long as it does not go lock. Fluid is another cheep fix.
Have fun and see what it does.

Kinda long winded sorry.
I also should explain on more thing.
With the rezzy and closing adjuster there has to be some bleed into rezzy. If not the shaft will lock base on displacement of fluid. As the shaft moves up the body the area of the shaft takes up space. This has to be accounted for if not it will fell like it bottomed out and be very harsh. This why I mentioned backing off the adjuster a click or two. With a rezzy there is no gas in the tube to take up this volume. This is why you set the fluid level in a shock that has gas in it. Gas over oil.

I shot a couple of pic to show what I was talking about with the shock on the bike.
Mine has the springs on it however you can see how it resist settling into ride height.
Pic one is ride height. Pic two is the shock topped out. The third is adjusters full closed and no Jack under machine. It will not settle to ride height. It only settles to a point where the shaft moves in to take up enough volume effecting the pressure above and below the valve to hold the weight as described above.
As a rule you don't want to run full closed. With a shim stack set up it's an easy fix to add valving shims. Case in point my front needed more compression valving for a greater range of adjustments.

Couple pics pulled from web

I went back and watched all your video on your channel. It just does not seam to have good compression valving. Sure you got all the air out of the system and got the valve toghter and aligned. I can see a sooner crossover will help. I would start with spring 1.

When you pushed down on it it seam to bottom too easy.

Pic for reference

the valving he said you can't do much about, as there are 4 holes and there are 3 small springs and balls in them.

Cross overs

wasn't sure how to put the cross over rings back in

Look at your video where played them out.
You can take each set and measure the thickness per piece and match side to side.

You can also use a smaller one from middle and move to top and cross over the triple rate sooner to the dual rate. Pay attention to the skidders to be sure there the same on the lip top and bottom. If different you can flip the thicker on top and cross over sooner.
I'll make up some examples.
I'll pull se of mine out and take some pics and what to do

Well I did it now.
Story time; My wife and I was having sausage and eggs talking about your issue. After she listened to me ramble a while I got the look. I said "WHAT". Being married since 81 yes 1981 and her having all oddy and pilot and riding with with a bunch or guys having cold ones building stuff. Just a little back ground.
She shook her head and said you dummy. "Just add hydraulic bump stops with a short stroke". I went and cried in my coffee. Made perfect since. Don't upset the ride and provide excellent bottom resistance.

Woops 300.00 and done. Plus no more broken shocks from excessive load.
Looks like I will be getting a set and so some work on her pilot. Again the look!
WHAT, I said. She said do it to your first and leave mine alone. Yep more tears in my coffee this time from being a proud husband.

Wow just logged in. Thanks for the info. It’s great to have guys with this kind of knowledge on here
So I just read through.
When I push that shaft down in the video I only have maybe 20lbs in the bladder. Which made it easier to push down.
The valve stacks when I pulled them out I zip tied them up so I would not lose anything in them or the place they came out of.
I would like to think I got all the air out but who knows. I might take them apart and change the oil on them. Make sure I got no air in the system
I need to redo the cross overs and set the ride height/sag properly.

I would like to try putting them in the Vice and the adjuster screw out and see how it feels and then screw it in and see
He said when measuring sag/ride height to measure from the top of rim to the fender. So we see hire that works.
The fluid I used was ams oil shock therapy #10 medium

When doing vise thing be sure to do each and change the shaft velocity. Basically slow shaft speed medium and fast.
If you find it interesting. Then place a bath scale under you vise adjust the zero and give it push. Kinda cool for fun. Video tape it and then watch it.
Going to garage to get some pics of cross over spacers.