Hey everybody, hoping for some advise on any adjustments to this 102c I had drop shipped to me awhile back. I lubed it up as best I could while assembled with some dry moly, and put it on when I had redone the top end and water cooled conversion, and just ran with it since. I'm going to pull it soon to relube and inspect.

I'm not so sure this is the best configuration for my use case however. What I'm reading is this particular configuration model number was more of a race type setup, with a higher engagement rpm.

I've noticed that reverse is no bueno with this particular clutch. Evidently there is a 2nd rev limiter in the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition), that's dependent on the shift position sensor. I can barely get it to move when in reverse, I have to look for a 'pristine' spot to turn around while on the trail, or get out and grunt it backwards by hand.

Another symptom of trail riding with this clutch is excessive fuel consumption. I'm getting like 8-10 mpg if that, its frustrating to not really be able to get anywhere, just head down a trail and then turn back when I start to run out of gas. I've gone through the carb (stock), and replaced the float, needle, bowl gasket and drain oring, and even bought a float level measuring tool to confirm it's set correctly. I see the drain tube is slightly damp after out and about, however while idiling it's not leaking/oozing. Also, when I take it apart I use simichrome polish on the overflow drain tube to shine it back up. That way, I can see where the fuel line sits for the most part. I'm assuming this bit of dribble from the overflow is normal, and just part of riding around. Otherwise the carb is dry on the outside, I don't see any signs of leakage anymore. Thoughts on that one?

My hopes was this config was pre-tuned to behave as 'Salisbury' like as possible. It does not seem to be the case. Does anybody here have any experience with updating this, or have any suggestions/advise on what combo to put in? My buggy has the stock driven, and my only performance mods were bore to 80mm, power reeds and a water cooled head. Should I have gotten a 94c instead, is that more dialed into what I was looking for?

Here's a shot of the box label, so I'm assuming that's what's actually in the clutch. I didn't take any photos of it that I can locate from back in the day during installation.




Also, here's an attached PDF of the paperwork that came in the box. If you see something that's illegible that you'd like to read, let me know and I'll either rescan or snap a photo of the original.



So do you guys use this clutch? Do you go with the standard 213999A? If not, what combo/setup do you prefer? Any recommendations for a trail rider who's looking to cut fuel consumption? The original Salisbury clutch engagement RPM was 3400, correct? Anybody have the winning PowerBall numbers for the next drawing? Who is John Galt?

The 94c is essentially a direct replacement for the Salisbury, being setup about the same from the get go. The 102c is supposed to be more fine tune, but I don't believe it can be tuned to activate lower than 3800rpm.

Thanks for the info on the 94c!

I kept rooting around, and found this pdf that has a snippet of a clutch engagement chart. It looks like you can in fact get it lower, 3300 according to this.

http://www.fullthrottletahoe.com/fullthro/publicstore/images/catalog-specs/09SnowPages/09Snow%20668.pdf

Here's the same thing, just as an attachment.



I went to http://www.cometclutches.com and fired off a message via their 'Contact Us' form, asking if I can get that clutch tuning kit 203800. So far no response, figured I'd give a day or 2 and then try emailing them at the email address on their page.

So we shall see, hopefully this leads somewhere, I'd love to tune it to 3400 if possible. Otherwise it sounds like as a last resort I can always hook my wallet back up to the 'ol parts cannon and fire a 94c at it.

give Don Jackson a call at Certified Parts Corp, I believe he is the guru, they are the company who owns Comet.
his number is (608)774-0481
putting in heavier weights or lighter spring will make it engage at a lower rpm but I am no expert, I just purchased a 108 4 pro for my pilot with a 670 Engine, expecting to get it any day now.
regarding the fuel mileage, that should be more of a jetting issue, unless the clutch is slipping and making heat instead of moving forward I don't see it effecting the mileage. on the stock pilot I was probably getting around 10mpg, I normally jet rich, I prefer to burn gas rather than pistons :)

Nice use of Johnny G.
Where is the engagement RPM at currently? If it’s high that is going to hv a significant impact on fuel.
High to me =3500 or more

Sweet, thanks for the info!

So according to that chart, the N-1 arms, purple spring and a single spacer would equate to an engagement RPM of 4750. Per my tach, that's about right, in reverse it's just BARELY starting to engage.

I think I'm going to give the A1 arms and a black spring a whirl If I'm not happy with that, then I'll pick up the bat-phone.

Good to know on your fuel consumption, I also stay on the rich end of the spectrum but I'm nosing my way towards stoichiometry. To that end, I saw fully suggest either a smart carb or lectron carb, looking over the lectron it looks promising for my application. I like the sound of it automatically adapting based on air density, and self tuning as you go. I wonder if that would get me further down the trail.

Lots to mull over!

If you end up going that route, I would be very interested. I am a finger away from pulling the trigger on a SmartCarb. It seems that in a direct competition the fact that you don't have to open up the SmartCarb to adjust the metering rod that it's the clear winner. But that's just me.

I really only looked into the lectron, the bit of time I put into research at that point I couldn't find an exact site for the smart carb.

Do you have any links for the smart carb by chance? Honestly that's the 'pain' I'm trying to solve, the fuel issue. I still want to bring down the engagement RPM, but ultimately that was a means to the 'solve the fuel issue' end.

Everything I had seen about the smart carb it sounded like it was either still in development or vaporware.

https://technologyelevated.com/shop/


They are on their second iteration of the smart carb now. Look up video reviews and I think the debate is clear on Lectron vs SmartCarb. But Lectron is cheaper.

Nice, thank you!

I fired off an email to the SmartCarb folks, asking what they would recommend for a FL350. Figured I'd start by knocking at the front door, right?

In the mean time, what do you guys recommend for replacement carb insulator? If I'm not mistaken, there's another model atv that has a insulator we can use, correct?

as for clutching yes the purple spring and the n1 cams will engage about 46-4700..I run this set up and I also bout a heavier spring to push the engagement over 5000..the way around the rev limiter in reverse is to bypass the neutral safety switch, I believe you cut the two wires and ground them to the frame. must remember that this allows you to start in gear..

as stated the clutch should not affect the gas mileage.

I have ordered a clutch from belt palace. Jim was very good to deal with and seemed to know his shit as well..wouldn't hurt to call him as well..

as for the cams..I have no idea what the A1 would do..I love the N1 with the high engagement spring

I don’t disagree with jetting contributing to mpg, I do still say though that clutching can certainly impact mpg, also unsprung weight can kill it. (Heavy tires)
It it takes 1/4 throttle to get an engagement of primary that’s gas not used for forward motion, also belt slippage can cause issues. How are you driving, did I miss it? Hard? Easy? Crawling or corner to corner charging.
Lots of good people hear, we will figure this out.

Thanks for the info!

Ya know, I might be able to solve my reverse issue with this. I still like the 'no start unless neutral' (sung to Beastie Boys 'No Sleep till Brooklyn'), so I may take a crack at coming up with a design that will do both, let me rev higher in reverse and not start in reverse.

/got that song in your head now huh

My driving style is relatively easy I'd say, I'm riding trails. I cruise around 35mph when it's nice and clear, and slow way down for the rough stuff, no sense beating her to death since going water cooled. So for some portions, yes I do need to crawl, which is why I think an engagement RPM either around stock or slightly higher would be ideal. But I'm guessing at that, that's where I'd ask the forum for guidance. My only experience is the stock clutch, and this 102c as you see configured.

The Comet purple spring is actually for race use only according to mfgsupply.com. Though it IS the suggested spring for FL350.

If you want to substantially lower your engagement RPM, you can go with either a BLACK or a PINK spring. Black will net you about 800 RPM lower, while the pink will net you about 1000 rpm.

Keep in mind if you lower the spring tension your ability to downshift diminishes.

Another option for if you want to go on longer rides is to get a larger fuel tank; or a second fuel tank. A spun aluminum tank.

Excellent info, definitely seems in alignment with that chart I had posted.

I have gone ahead and ordered the A1 arms and black spring. That'll put me at 3600, or 3700 if I keep the shim in it came with.

I actually would appreciate less downshift drop, as it is now it's letting go at some points and I'm just coasting. I've destroyed 1 belt already doing this, I'd prefer it stay engaged.

I have added a extra tank, an additional 2.5 gal I can dump in on the trail. It's still not enough for some trails unfortunately.

For your driving style and speed, I’d set it up to as close to stock as you can get. If you ate a belt you are likely engaging and disengaging very often, I know, I’m master of the obvious. Lower the rpm to engage and you’ll gain mpg and a smoother ride, more tractor like.

Hey guys, not sure if my google-fu is slipping in my advancing age or what, but I found a complete engagement chart, from here of all places.

download/file.php?id=31187

Here's the same file as an attachment, in case that link gets wonky:

It is also in alignment with the other 'mini' engagement chart I had posted, so I'm feeling better about the A1 arms and the black spring.

I hadn't considered the 'automated' downshift, the response to torque if you will. I'm hopeful that changing the arm profile as well as the spring tension will help with that, keep it somewhat reasonable . The N1 profile seems pretty abrupt, I wonder if that's why it was paired with the purple spring for the FL350. In any case, I suppose you can always just let off the gas, and let it decelerate and then resume with a higher RPM.

At this point I suppose 'there's nothing to it but to do it' eh? Put my clutch where my mouth is, and find out what swapping the arms and spring will do If I don't like it, I can put it right back the way it was.

Much like the asian driver lady on family guy.. 'good luck everybody else!'