Question on the rear arms for the FL400 pilot. Part # 52350-HE0-010

Has anyone removed / replaced the bushings on the rear arms for the FL400. If so, how did you do it? What did you used to do it? Did you damage the bushing / arm by doing so? Where can you find replacement bushings?

With a ebay search for that part number I came up with these. Anyone use them?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Arm-Bushing-Fo ... 2871!US!-1

Hello Curtis, I have pressed out the bushings on the exhaust mounts and had no luck in matching them.

I am sure those will press right out but a replacement, that is a different story.
The bushing you posted a link to looks like it is larger on one end, for that reason I do not think they will work.

If you need some rear arms I might have some, or you can just build some and use a good quality heims, this would allow the stock suspension to work better as the suspension will not fight the rubber bushing any longer.

Yes sir -- just like scpilot66 said -- those are press in's. Easy to get out but difficult finding a replacement.
This would be another great project. I bet my rent money that a guy could make those with vitaflex just like I did my intake manifolds and Engine mounts.
CO

I have a few old bent/junk arms that I will try to press the bushings out. You think they will be junk once I remove them or reusable?

My reason for asking is that I want to powder coat my good arms and I don't think that rubber bushing will like the oven much. The bushings themselves are in good shape so hopefully reusable once removed. Press them back in after powder.

Now to find a press I can use....

Thanks guys!

Yes if you press on the outer metal sleeve of the bushing, they might have a split metal on the outer which could make it fun to reinstall so try and put one back in as well as remove.

Good thinking!

Most likely you will have to cut a proper sized pusher to fit those so that you can press it out.
Unlikely but possible you will find a deep socket that will fit.
I wouldn't push at all on that inner bushing or you'll destroy it. It must fit on the outer sleeve.
Then you will also need a sleeve that fits on the outer A arm so that you can press the bushing into it. There is not much meat there to catch on.
Also I bet you can push it out with a big arse vise.
CO

Edit: I can't prove it but I bet those rubber bushings are slightly over size so that when you press it into the A arm the rubber will compress a bit and therefore give it some press fit tolerance.
CO

I believe most powder coating cures around 200 degrees. I also believe rubber is good up to 250 degrees. Another thing to consider besides temperature is the prep process for powder coating. Parts are usually chemicly stripped, baked dry, then powder applied, then bake cured.

I guess what i’m getting at is the rubber may be fine. Since you have some junk arms you could ask the coater to run one and see how the rubber does. Seems like a lot of work to remove and then reinstall. If you do remove don’t get powder on the inside or you will have to sand it out so you can press them back in.

I chemically strip all powder coated parts, then sand blast, then baked to 400degF, then powder applied (while hot), then bake the part to 400degF for 20 min. I do have plugs & the high temp tape to prevent the powder from getting in the bushing spot. I am starting to get the hang of powder coating.

I was thinking about doing just that. Testing one of the bent ones with bushing in. I feel that the bushing would be compromised at 400degF though.

Choices, choices, hmmm

Powder coat looks good. I forgot you are doing your own coating. Rubber probably wont last at 400.

Is that a power steering mounting plate?

Thank you and it is the mounting plate for the power steering m0tor.

Hate to hijack your thread, but did you buy it or make it? If you bought it do you have a source? If you made it - Do you want to sell one?

Edit - I found the thread about your power steering. Looks like that is a kit from Methodical.

Yes. Methodical is the man!

Baahahahahahahahaha.
I like that one, it's better than mine.

Funny part is that when I was talking about an electrical motur I couldn't use the word LOL.
I do understand Hoser's point but it can be comical.

On a side note -- no chance in hell those rubber bushings gona last at 400'F. JMHO.
CO

Ok I'm an F'in idiot. When I referenced 200 degrees it was 200 degrees C, which is 400 degrees F.

Like I said I'm an F'in idiot.

I'm glad you like that CO! ingenuity



Rmesser,
Technically, you were half correct. CO, Fully, and the Aussies knew it to be true

what powder coating system did you go with..I was quoted almost $400 to do the 6 springs for my works shocks..so I ended up just painting them. I just finished painting them and they turned out good, but won't hold up as well as powder coat. I thought of buying my own system and find small oven

Here: https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-dual- ... r-kit.html

It works well for the items I am coating and the powders I am using. Ordered some more powder on Sunday so going to do all the smaller stuff. I think my friend and I will eventually invest in a better one.

That seems really expensive for powder coat. The paint looks good, I am likely going to spray these arms and call it a day. Did you use any special paint?

I just used rustoleum enamel primer and then painted them with rustoleum enamel black and the red and white was a tremclad enamel

I had a whole sand blasted and powder coated for 400$
I think the next one after that was 580$
They are proud of their powder up north!!!

I have the harbor freight system, it's about $70 but as with all powder coating you need to blast clean and have an oven you can use.