on your belt, it seams to be running the wrong direction, I don't think it matters if there is not a factory arrow but from my memory I have seen where it is suggested to put the belt on so that the numbering is readable from the side of the vehicle, I could be wrong, ask my wife

I don't know.
Some manufacturers have arrows but I just mark it every time I take it off.
Maybe someone can research this, I don't have time.
CO

Thx mess.
But for $62 I'm gona make my own just like I did the last time. Seems a bit much to me.
Kinda busy with stuff right now but I'll post it when time comes some time this winter.
The card in my phone is small and can only make like 5 min videos so it'll be pics most likely.
CO

Here is the video of the crankshaft run out: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=efehq2lcmY0
Looks like I got about .003 run out.
Anybody know what is acceptable and if it's not then what do I do about it ??
If I have to pull the Engine and rebuild then that's not gona happen. Lets just blow it up.
CO

I made time to look it up.
They talk about timing belts and also reference non timing belts but the same rules apply I think.
https://www.gatestechzone.com/en/news/2 ... t-rotation
CO

But your wife is also correct (you're always wrong). It's just recommended.
See pdf below.

If the end of the crank was clean I would say its close. .002 is book. The radial in the bearing may account for part of that. I say that because of the pull starter leverage acting on the bearings. I would put a bolt in the crank with a jamb nut and give it the wiggle test and see what you feel. I don't feel its enough to snap that shaft. The threaded part just may be a weak spot in the design for the rpm and power you have there. I would take a good look at the pucks to make sure there all good. One bad one would trough a wrench it. Check them for over heating.

I'm with you on this one. The threaded portion on a shaft is always a weak spot.
When I get into this rebuild I'll have to have a closer look at this stuff.
The bit you posted showed 40 HP as the limit. That was interesting and I'm thinking we are running close. Anything "off" could cause this failure like a sudden load on the system caused by something like a jump landing or hitting a big rock.
CO

I don't think .003 is too bad to be concerned with, if I recall correctly mine was out around.015 or .02, in my case it was the crank had twisted on it's self, it's a twin, more places to slip, my local guy was able to straighten it for me, I think it is just giving it a good whack with a brass or lead hammer but you got to know where to hit it and how much

I didn't read the whole thread, but wasn't your brothers machine the one with the vibration issue? Could the vibration be the cause of the clutch failure, or was the clutch failure the cause of the vibration? I have a terrible memory.

You have an excellent memory.
Yes my brothers machine did have a vibration issue and it turned out to be a worn out Engine mount. At the same time it also had a twisted off clutch shaft.
This situation is a bit different though.
The Engine mounts are fine and it has no vibration. Yet it blew the clutch the same way.
CO

Well all three machines ready to go again. Hopefully can go for a ride up to silver tip mine next week as we are suppose to have really nice weather (in the high 80's low 90's). Been raining heavy here lately as is normal for this time of the year.
Also it's amazing how much knowledge there is in the instructions if a guy takes the time to read it. I have a problem with reading instructions, which is probably normal for most males.
In the pic it shows Comet suggesting to use the most and heaviest pucks and the lightest spring for the best performance.
CO