FAILURE
Thought I would try to de-construct a U-joint to see if a guy could just re-grease these.
Basically I thought that you could just push on the shaft and pop the cap out the same way it went in instead of pushing one cap down and trying to shove it out on one side. As we all know already on this site, you can't do that because you can not shove the X down far enough to get the cap out. So figured you could just throw a 5/16" nut inside once the rollers fall out. Then continue. Unfortunately the cap busted.
You can't get the U-joint apart unless the caps are backed off to just above the outside edge and that's where the issue is since you can't push them that far.
These caps were incredibly tight. I have a 20 ton hydraulic press and there were several loud pops. No chance in hell you can do this with a bench vise.
You will also see that the rollers were rusty and dry. This U-joint seemed fine to me when I started this project and I thought it was still good. The reason I tried this is because I have a drive shaft that was snapped off already so no harm in trying to save a U-joint.
Also note that there are 25 rollers in each cap. Yes I broke a few.
CO

Could you share the process of pressing a new joint in? I'm no stranger to pressing u joints but I understand this is a whole different game.

If you are familiar with doing other U-joints then this is no different.
The only difference is that you MUST in my opinion run a 20mm reamer through the joints or you could get cap bind. Others have had issues with new U-joints failing. In my opinion I think they got rammy and damaged a cap because they didn't have a reamer. These things are fragile in my opinion. You can't get rammy. The caps must glide in smooth.
I actually purchased a 20mm reamer on Amazon. I've done a couple of these already with no issues and each one took a skim off the joint in the high spots because the holes didn't line up.
CO

I think I'm going to revisit this project again later.
Also thinking of making solid caps (no rollers).
CO

Edit: It must be a straight flute reamer that goes through full length and NOT a taper reamer.
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Cutting-F ... 85&sr=8-15
Note: You NEVER turn a reamer backwards.
CO

Continued
Took the other half apart but had to make some custom tooling.
You will see:
1) bracket to push on the X
2) 1/2" approx piece of metal with a hole big enough for a cap to go through
3) This is key: split 2 piece collar to fit on the X once you have pushed the X as far as it will go. Then you put this split collar on the part of the X that fits in the cap. Push cap out.

Unless a guy has a machine shop in his garage I can't see how the average guy can do this job.
You'll also see that the caps didn't come all the way out. That's because you are limited with the width of the split 2 piece collar.
The important part about this is that you CAN take U-joints apart without destroying them.
At the end of the day this can be done but it's tough going. The key is the split collar.
CO

A final comment here before I put this thread to bed.
In the pictures below you see the tools you need to make.
Also you will see that the rubber seals for the u-joints gets wrecked during this procedure.
You could reuse them but the sealing would be suspect. You could also probably leave them out entirely and then use a needle adapter on your grease gun and grease these every time you go out.
CO

Also a little tit bit

If you have a range of axles of other 350s you will find the shims are different
thicknesses

Also after a uni replacement if you run them you may have a vibration in the rear end
I have found you need to knock the uni back so the caps sit firm against the Shim and C clips.

PS the C Clips are very hard to find as again Honda used a thicker one to a off the shelf size.

Wyeeoddy