Alright, now I have to figure out how to remove the bearing....

Sorry, thought the seal would come out without removing the bearing. Guess I was confused with the fl400.

Good catch adnoh.

You will have to tap the bearing and seal out. Should tap out easy. I would take a socket just smaller that he case opening and drive the bearing and seal out. Whenever you put a side load on a bearing, it should be replaced. I would replace the main bearing as a pair.

So what your thought on removal. If you choose to tap them out be sure case is laying flat on a solid surface. OR make a back yard hacker tool from a 2x4 bolt nuts and washers and pull it out. The you can add force to the bearing uisng the bolt and then tap the head of the bolt to give it nudge. The bolt will first go through a washer and then socket that fits inside the hole on the outside of the case. Then through the seal and bearing. Then through a hole in the 2x4 that will set on the case flat area. Put on a big flat washer and nut then tighten up the bolt. The bearing will either start to move or the bolt will get tight. Use a small wrench as this is all the pressure you want to apply to the bearing. if bearing does not move tap the head of the bolt and then add more pressure by tightening up the bolt. Once it starts to move you can use the wrench on the nut the rest of the way to remove it. If not use wrench and tap method until out. Or if you have a shop press then press it out.
The reason for a socket on the bolt first is so you do not miss and hit the case. So make sure the socket is long enough to get past the case lip. A long impact sockets works best here. Take you time You always want to tap on the end n the direction of removal. Since you work on other stuff you should this stuff laying around the garage.

I would also recommend new bearing. at this point what is another $30.00 bucks

This would be good practice for bearing install which is a little different so you do not damage the new bearings.
SO go get it out and let us know how you did it and we all like pics.

Then and only then can we talk about the other side. Go have fun

Okay thanks! Will this work to make the clutch puller?

I'm really confused now.
You got this whole Engine apart so you must have the clutch off already -- No ??
CO

Are you talking about pulling the driven?

Yes the driven pully.. I didn't need to take it off for the right crank case.

That’s right you do not need to take the driven pulley off the reduction gear box to take off the right crank case. I assume you removed the drive clutch, as you have the Engine split. So you are now working on the driven clutch? I’d rather go back to discussing the Engine. Did you get the bearings out?

I hope I’m wrong here, but are you messin with us?

Went back and reread. You did ask about a driven clutch puller. Guess I’m confused.


Gonna go over terminology. The clutch connected to the Engine crank is the drive clutch. The clutch connected to the reduction gear case its the driven clutch.

Also, I don’t recall, what was the result of your leak down test?


The bolt you pictured is only 7/8” long. Is that long enough? I’m not sure.

He may not know the drive is on the motor (( Internal Combustion Engine ? )) and driven on trans. We'll see.
I bet he is working on the left side crank case.
Is that what your doing? Throw us a bone ( picture) you got a phone at your age should take ya about ten seconds.
For me no pics no commentary. Good luck young man

Sorry about the confusion.... Ill send pics

Pic

Ok now we can all see what we are talking about.
Like the guys said --- That picture shows the "DRIVE CLUTCH". The driven clutch is on the transmission.
That "Drive Clutch" needs the puller I showed you the picture of.
CO

Edit: Please note what I said in that post of the puller. The bolt you see in my picture may not be the one you need. You may need someone with knowledge on thread pitch to help you. Does anyone know the exact size for a FL250 drive clutch ??

Also the pusher rod shown may be a bit long but you can cut it off if it's to long. You will know what I'm talking about once you start this job.
CO

WOW
I didn't even think a guy could get these cases apart without pulling the drive clutch.
Never seen that done before.
CO

Lol....
Could someone help me figure out if the bolt i posted a pic of will work? On your pic with the ruler this will work...

I just looked online at clutch pullers and it says the stock FL250 clutch threaded puller is a 7/8" bolt 14 TPI.
So the answer to your question is NO.
The bolt you showed a pic of is the wrong one.

You need a 7/8" bolt 14 threads per inch pitch and I would say about 2" long.
Go to your local hardware store or some place that sells large bolts.
CO

Edit: Make sure the bolt threads in by hand easily before you put in the pusher rod. This is to verify it's the correct bolt thread pitch. (I'm pretty sure it is though).
CO

Okay thank you

Can't find any bolts at any of my stores other than Amazon

Well then get your dad to drive you to the nearest city.
You mean there is no heavy industry in your area ?? You guys probably have a machine shop near by. Sawmill ?? How about a fastenall store ??
You are going to need a 1/2" x 6" bolt to make that pusher rod as well as this bolt to pusher on that pusher rod.

You are also hopping around this site at 3am according to the clock in the top right corner of this page. So that means 12am west coast time. You are clearly on the west coast, so unless you live in tiny town USA I'm sure you must have something around that sells bolts.
CO

I got it running !

Good for you kid.
Now you MUST not drive that thing until you have all the safety equipment installed.
You MUST have seat belts, wrist restraints and a helmet.
You have to understand that this thing is NOT a go-cart.
The FL350 and the FL400 do over 60 mph. The FL250 for sure will probably do 50 mph. That's highway speeds !! and lots of people get killed on the highways.
Maybe it's ok if you get killed but what do you think your life will be like missing an arm (no wrist restraints) or brain damage (no helmet) or paralyzed from the neck down (no seat belts) ??
You don't think it can happen ??
Here is the thread on ONE of my crashes: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=15887&hilit=crsah
READ IT ALL PLEASE.

CO

Okay will do
Thanks