Is the pulley for the pull start two pieces ? The star looking the cane off and whenever I put it back together and try to pull it thr teeth Engine and then it just slides it around so it won't work ...

There are multiple pieces. See diagram below. Those pull starts are pretty basic, but have to be assembled correctly.

Could you post up a picture or 2 including the "star looking thing"?

Take your time and go over it again, make sure all you parts are there and match the diagram and that they are in good shape. These machines are getting old.

Kinda hard to tell what is happening based on your description, but with the pull start out you should see the the finger (#6 in the diagram) pop out when you pull it, and they should retract when the rope returns.

this came off and it just slides in the pull start so the teeth try go grab but they just slide back.

It looks to me like that piece sheared off the rope hub.
It needs to be riveted back on. That's what it looks like to me.
CO

Wow. That needs to be replaced. That looks like (part of) Part 4 and it is only one piece.

The big question is what would cause this?

Was it backfiring when you would pull start it?

I suspect you have to do some root cause diagnosis.

Do you have a manual? Is it a points system or CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition)? If points I would verify the timing, per the manual.

Its not backfiring. Its an 83 so CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). I got it running sort of. It will only start with some fuel pored down the spark plug. Then it will start and revs crazy high and I turn off and on kill switch to keep it running. So it is running from fuel it the carb, because it stays on for long. But if I don't turn off and on kill switch it just revs higher and higher

OHHHHHHHHHHHHH !!
You got a major air leak. You're gona destroy that thing. DO NOT start it again.
You have to do a leak down test on the Engine.
CO

Don't be offended by anything I say. It's just the way I am and I don't know your skill level, tooling in your shop or anything else about you.

You're going to destroy that Engine unless you start from the beginning with this Engine.
We now know you have some kind of air leak. Air leaks are deadly to a two stroke Engine. Also you better not be just pouring straight gas in that Engine when you do that. Two strokes need oil in the fuel.
Here is a short video of a two stroke being air leak tested. They also forgot one important step. Your piston must be at BDC or at least close to bottom. They're testing a Pilot Engine but that don't matter. All two strokes the same. Here is the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zdq7NRcUIp8
You will do the same but you don't need the rad tester for pressure, you can use compressed air from an air tank. Make note of what he said in the video: "NOT over 5 psi". You can go about 7 psi if you want but you could blow the crank seals out over that.
CO

Okay thanks for the info. I've been using 2 stoke oil and gas mixed. When I slowy turn it over hear a little air but I think its just the exhaust

Also "if" this has a good running Engine and drove good how much do you think it's worth.

Pic

New tyres, DG exhaust, and custom racing seat. Just curious how much if it ran good. So I can decide how much money I want to put into it

FL250's generally do not go for a lot of money unless there is something special about it.
A picture is worth a thousand words.
I see:
1) No wrist restraints -- that's bad as you will break your arm when you roll it.
2) Seat seems very high. Steering wheel will be around your balls in height.
3) DG pipe and silencer -- this thing will be loud.
4) NO seat belts -- Ohhhhhhhhhh



This comment says a lot. I don't think you have a lot of two stroke experience do you ??
The "air leak" you here is the air leaking by the rings when you are turning the Engine and the piston has closed the ports. It's trying to compress the air in the combustion chamber and is now leaking past the rings. This is normal when you are turning the Engine by hand.
CO

I'm not an FL250 guy so others are going to have to comment on the price.
I own 3 FL350's.
CO

Alright I think I'm just going to sell it. I bought it for 600.

I'm going to tell you right now that these buggies FL250 - FL350 - FL400 cost big.
Think about this for a moment. Tires alone are $300 - $400. Now you bust something or blow an Engine.
I already know you most likely have to do an Engine rebuild because of that air leak.
If you don't have spare money you can't drive these machines.
CO

You should be able to get that back in my opinion.
CO

Alright thanks for your info.

I'm not trying to be an azz hole just trying to tell the truth.
One thing about the guys on this site is that we're not used car salesmen. We tell you what we see and then you decide what you want to do. It's your money.
That machine is going to cost a few dollars to get into shape. You need Engine seals (most likely), a gasket set, a leak down test set up, seat belts, wrist restraints, gas tank ??, and possible other minor stuff. Figure out what this stuff costs before you decide to sell it. Then look at the dollars and decide. You should do this because these are fun machines but they cost. Also the FL250 has NO rear suspension so bent axles are always a possibility if you are one of those crazy drivers.
CO

Alright I'm thinking about putting in 300$ im just trying to see if it worth it. Like how much it would be worth

In my opinion you're not even close with $300.
Seat belts are gona be over $100 alone and then wrist restraints (I don't remember what I paid), now add a seal kit and a gasket set, stuff for a leak down tester $50 ??, now add the repair for the starter. See what I mean ??
Do some research on cost for this stuff and then make up your mind.
In 1985 when the first FL350 came out I was 25 yrs old and wanted one really bad. They cost $3500 in 1985 and back then you could get a brand new 250cc dirt bike for $1500. I had to wait a life time (I was in my 50's when I got my first FL350) to get one. I'm glad I waited because Honda had many many recalls on that machine and then they gave up. It was only made for one year. Unless you are a mechanic you can't buy an FL350 --- Period.
CO

Alright well say I got all of that how much you think its worth? Would it be worth it?

To be honest -- the same as what you just bought it for or possibly $200 more.
If you are lucky and a guy wants one bad the this thing would go for $1000 tops in my opinion.
Anyone else want to chime in here on price ??
CO

Edit: It's late now so not many guys on the site, even at the best of times, so you may have to wait until tomorrow for more replies.
CO

Okay that sucks i thought they were worth more im seeing them going for 1500 that don't run

That's the usual used car salesman. Their shyte is worth millions but as soon as you drive it off the lot and bring it back they only want to give you a few peso's for it even though you just bought it.
I have seen FL350 owners asking for a small fortune and when you look at the pictures you can see all kinds of things wrong with it LOL.
Listen there is no hurry to make a decision. It's not costing nothing right now.
Do some research on costs, get second opinions etc.
CO

Edit: It costs me $50 for two stroke oil and AVGAS every time I take out one of my FL350's.
We always go in two's so that's $100 for me every time .
CO