Alright I'm gonna go get stuff to do a leakdown test

The first thing you are going to make and spend money on is a pressure set up.
You need:
1) A plug for the exhaust on the cylinder. You have to remove the exhaust pipe. You get a piece of inner tube and cut a piece big enough to cover that hole. Now you get a piece of metal, plastic or wood big enough to cover that hole. In this piece you will have to drill three holes for metric bolts to go through. You use the threaded holes that are in the cylinder that hold the exhaust spigot in.

2) A plug for the intake where the carb goes in. You have to remove the carb. Insert your plug and hold it in with the clamp that holds your carb.

3) A 1/4" hose and a low pressure gauge. You have to hook up this hose to the gauge and then to the nipple on the case that has the hose for the fuel pump. This is where you will be putting in the air.

4) At the end of the hose in #3 you need a shrader valve so that you can pump some air in with a bicycle pump.

Below is a pdf of the set up that similar. Also watch that video I posted for you earlier.
At the end of the day there are many ways to do this job but it ALWAYS involves plugging the intake, exhaust and fuel pump nipple holes. Where you put the air in don't matter. The description above is the easiest way for you I think.
Remember piston must be near the bottom or you get a wrong reading.
Read the pdf.
CO

Okay thanks I'll keep you updated

I was just seeing if I could see anything before I went out and bought stuff..m I have the Engine out and I have the exhaust and spark plug plugged and I blow into the intake and I hear are coming out of where the flywheel is....

Yeah that's not a good sign.
But you could have more than one leak.
Not sure how you're "blowing into the intake".
You still have to decide if you're going to continue with this project and if you are then you still have to make this test rig. It's also a key piece of tooling you would use your whole life anytime you work on any two stroke Engine.
CO

I decide im going through with it. I made a leak down testing... And my crank seals are blown. So I'm going to order new crankseals and new gaskets and put it back together with new gaskets and crankseals.

Ok but not so fast. What is the real compression now that you tested it at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) ??
If you still have low compression you will at least need rings. I'm not sure if the FL250 has the tapered rings. Those are almost impossible to get. Anybody want to comment ??

When you eventually take it apart measure the piston and cylinder best you can with a dial caliper. Tape measure ain't gona cut it.
CO

EDIT: I just looked in the manual under section 8-13
It looks like the FL250 has the tapered rings. So unless someone has done a rebuild with the wiseco piston I think it may be tough to find those rings. Therefore you could be looking at a piston, rings and bore job.
You have to source all your parts first before you buy anything. That's actually a rule in life too, especially on a job site. You take NOTHING apart until you know you have the stuff.
CO

Edit again: Section 8-14 show you how to measure the piston and bore. It gives wear limits.
CO

I got 118 psi

Well that's good news in my opinion.
New from factory these units got 130 psi.
I would call that good enough and you can always pull the jug and do a top end in a couple of years and do the top end only.
CO

You may not have to split the Engine at all.
You should be able to pull the seals from the outside and install the new ones.
The only draw back is that you can't look at the bearings and piston, rings etc.
Since you are low on cash just change the seals and call it good -------- that is IF your Engine passes the leak down test. You still have to check for leaks with the test rig and soapy water after you change these seals.
CO

I'm going back out to my shop to do some welding now on my brothers machine so I'll get back to any more questions you have some time tomorrow.
Unless someone answers them before me.
CO

Okay sweet and where can I grt a driven clutch puller

And do I need to replace the crank bearing too?

Oops I didn't see a message so I can replace the seals from the outside ? And then do another leak test?

Good price on a gasket set.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Athena-Complet ... SwNm1fwICD

Thanks

Replace from outside -- yes
Another leak test -- yes



You probably won't be able to get a good look at the bearings so -- no



I will post a pic below on the clutch puller. You make this out of a piece of 1/2" round stock. The measurements are in the pic but since you still have the stock clutch and I don't know the exact length you need, you will have to do trial and error on the length. It should be goddamn close to what I posted below. You will also see that the end of that pusher pin is ground down to under .400". There is a reason for that. It must fit inside the crank which means if it's to big it will damage the threads in the crank. You can do this on a grinder but I have a lathe.
What you do is remove the bolt holding clutch on.
Insert this pusher pin (Pic).
Now you need a different size bolt (not your bolt that holds clutch on). You will see the threads at the end of the clutch.
What you do is put some tension on the pusher pin with the new bolt. Then smack the bolt head with a hammer. Repeat until clutch comes off. Sometimes it makes a very loud POP. No you didn't break anything - that's just how they come off.
CO

Here you go kid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsIdRxkAjFc
That's how you take off any cvt clutch.
Please note --- this yoyo got his clutch off real easy. Sometimes what you see on youtube is a setup. He almost certainly took it off before he made this video. These clutches do not come off that easy. Don't believe everything you see on TV or the internet -- some of it is bullshyte.
You will also note that he said: "you may have to use a hammer". Yeah no shyte.
You will also note that pusher bolt he was using. It's just a rod with threads on the end. That's the same as what we make here on this site for our clutches except ours is two piece. Ours are a bolt and a rod that is ground down on the end. Same thing.
CO

Edit: 1) Make sure you got the correct thread pusher bolt. 2) Make sure you ground down the end of the pusher rod.
CO

Okay thanks

How do I take the crank seal off?

This is from Hoser.....

Yes you can remove both seals from outside the case, just take two sheet metal screws and carefully screw them into the center of the seal just enough they will hold the seal then grab the heads with visegrips and pull the seal out, when you get the pull starter off take some pics and post I will tell you if you need to change the seal on that side.


viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6471&hilit=Remove+seal

This is the pull starter side?

rmesser was just quoting from the other thread that hoser commented in.

You run in two sheet metal screws into the seal. One on each side. Right in the middle of the seal.
Then you grab them with vise grips and pull.
Careful not to run them in to deep and hit the bearing. Just a couple of threads in is all you need. If it pulls the screws out then put bigger ones in. You have many tries. This job is simple. The seal should come out easy.
CO

Edit: You don't put the new seals in this way though LOL. Just thought I would mention that in case your missing it.
CO

Okay thanks and do the screws go threw the washer too? I only ordered seals I don't have that washer
My question is probably dumb but I don't want to mess anything up

I can't just pop the new seals in?