What's the latest thinking on replacement rear axle U-Joints for the FL350? I've looked through a lot of posts on here and many are now several years old so would like to get latest advice, as I need some.

From what I can tell there are two offerings on the market either the Powertrain Industries 9951-22 (https://www.powertrainindustries.com/st ... heo3so85h0) at $25 which I think are made by GMB in Japan, or the chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts Motorsports ones (https://www.chucklenuts at aftershot motorspurts.com/i ... cts_id=240) at $210 each, huge difference in price!

Are these the only ones or what else does everyone recommend in 2022?

Thanks

U-Joints:
You are going to be using the Powertrain Industries 9951-22
Chucklenuts is most likely using those and jacking the price.
I don't think anyone else makes these except Powertrain. It's what I use.

IMPORTANT:
I purchased a 20mm reamer for this job.
Reason: These u-joint caps are fragile and you CAN'T get rammy with them. The cups must slide in smoothly. If you don't want to buy a reamer then you have to make sure everything is very very clean and smooth. Take an old cap (after you take everything apart) clean it and make sure it goes through smoothly before you install the new stuff. Also make sure the snap ring grooves are clean.
I bought that reamer to make sure everything is straight and lined up. Never had an issue.
Some others in the past have broken new u-joints but I bet real money they got rammy during install. Take your time with this job. By the way keep your old needle bearings in a cup. You never know when you need ONE, because you lost a new one while doing this job. Don't ask me how I know.
CO

Edit:
This site is extremely slow now. Most of the senior members have left and don't show up very often, I'm one of them. I don't show often anymore either. So if you are looking for fast answers, it ain't gona happen. You need a lot of patients now on this site.
By the way -- welcome new guy.
CO

Edit 2:
May I suggest this thread I did: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393&hilit=manuals
In that thread (as well as any others) you can click on anything highlighted in blue. It's a link to another thread.
CO

Thanks again CO, appreciate the definitive advice and the less pressure on my wallet!

I’ll check the reamer out. Where do you guys buy the PowertrainTools part from, I found this site (http://www.northerndrivetrain.com/produ ... 51-22.html) but seems outdated so would appreciate any advice.

In terms of Newbie, that’s correct, I have two FL350’s but I live in the UK about 35 miles south of Manchester. I got these as part of a deal on a house I bought 20 years ago and they worked for about a year but were in bad condition. Thanks to Randman (I think) I got a fair few parts shipped over to the UK at that time and tried to resurrect them. But then, same as a lot of us on here I think, life took over with kids at school and work etc and you just get no time to do anything! I remember when my daughter was about 6 years old taking her round the field on my lap and she loved it, my son who was a bit older drove it himself and wrecked the U-Joint which I now need to replace! Well this coming weekend both my son and daughter are back at home and they can’t wait to have go, I’ve made one good one out of the pair of them! As for me, I’m now in my late 50’s, both kids have left home and I finally have some time to work on these, as I say, one is going OK but a lot of work to do to get the other one going!

Really appreciate the wealth of advice and experience on here, without that it would be impossible to restore these.

Where to get U-Joints:
Powertrain Industries no longer sells to the public, only wholesale.
The company split in two and Drive Shaft Pro is now their sister company.
The business they now use to sell to customers is called: Drive Shaft Pro (714) 462-1199 located in California USA. That's the number Powertrain gave me to call.

I know this for fact because I recently did a complete resurrection of an FL350 that someone brought me and it needed u-joints.
I had to order them from Drive Shaft Pro. They were very good to deal with. In fact he had those joints on back order from Powertrain and it took a while. When I called them back he knew my name and gave me exact info on my order.
Unfortunately I don't remember the cost because I gave the guy all the bills. Because of exchange and shipping it was a lot. The joints were cheap enough but it was the rest of the costs.

You could try those guys at Northern Drivetrain but I haven't dealt with them and I bet the cost is higher than what they advertise there. Also if you look at the very bottom of that page it shows 2008-2018. So that price is at least 4yrs old and they have not updated that site in over 4 yrs.
CO

Reamer: I got mine online years ago on Amazon.
CO

Edit: If one u-joint is bad then you can bet your rent money the other one on the other side is going to be suspect. If you are going to spend the money on shipping I don't think it's much more to send more than one.
CO

By the way you can not press out the old cups after you remove the snap ring.
The cross does not allow you to push out the cup all the way because it can NOT go low enough. This is going to be a cutting torch show. You cut the cross out then knock the cups through. I did make a jig and pieces to press out the old stuff without using a cutting torch but I don't know what kind of tools you got or your skills. In any event, most likely those needle bearing are going to be damaged anyways. Most of the time you blow the outboard u-joint. Bet you did too.
I'm a certified millwright with a welding ticket and 62 yrs old now (retired). Most others on this site are around our age. Unfortunately we don't show up much anymore and most old timers have sold their machines.
CO

Post some pictures so we can see what you got.
Pictures tell us a lot on this site and we can point out what we see.
CO

Thanks a lot CO, great advice!

I’ll post some pictures of the axle at the weekend, but even though only one u joint has gone, I was intending to replace all 4 as they are all the same weak ones with a grease nipple on them.

The GMB part number is 220-0045. $9 at Summit. Keep the washers/spacers when you remove the old u-joints, the snap rings holding them in will probably break on removal so try to locate the correct size before you start.

WOW thank you for posting that.
CO

Lots of good info here. I've always liked this forum better than anything else I've found on the web. Glad to se you old timers, (CO!) still helping out!

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Here's the non broken one removed, it came out reasonably ok using a hammer and large diameter punch. Just need to clean it all up now and wait for the new ones to arrive.

Wow, a big thanks from me too. I haven't broken any yet, but at this price I am going to stock up on a few sets.

I do wish more Odyssey enthusiasts would post on this forum. I do go on facebook sometimes and I've put up a few posts, but it's so damn hard to find what you're looking for I still don't understand what the big draw is to that platform. Shit is there, then it's gone. Scrolled off or automatically hidden by the Facebook gods. WTF. I hate it.