Hey guys, my name is TJ. Back in 2018 I acquired an FL350. I spent some money on random things for it and got it to run for 1 ride. The next time I tried to ride it the throttle would go to about half way then bog. Then it wouldn't start at all. I haven't really messed with it since, till last weekend but it fired right up. Still only about half throttle though before it bogs. It seems like I have no adjustment in the carb either. I replaced the intake manifold with one I got off ebay that has a replaceable boot, and put new Boysen reeds in it. The original fuel tank was gone when I got it, but it came with one of those aluminum gravity feed tanks. The wiring is a mess also. I started to clean it up last weekend with a wiring diagram I found online. Right now it starts on pull start only, but if I can get it running right I'll start addressing everything else as I go. Thanks for reading my book haha.

I've pulled the carb apart and cleaned it also, still no change. I believe it's the original Keihin carb too.

STOP RIGHT THERE !
Most likely you are not getting enough fuel.
Lack of fuel flow is deadly to a two stroke.
If it is a gravity feed then the float valve must be changed to a larger unit. The stock float valve is to small in the original carb.
It could also be that your tank is not vented and this causes a vacuum lock. Check to make sure the tank cap is a vented unit and make sure it's not blocked.
If you are still using the original fuel pump then it's shot.
The FL350 requires 4.5 oz of flow in 10 seconds and it also uses a fuel "T" to return extra fuel not used back to the tank when a pump is used.
Verify your carb jets are clean. This is a must.
I have added a link to get a free PDF manual, parts book and also a color wiring diagram.
CO

Free PDF manual link: https://oddatv.com/free-fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/
CO

By the way welcome.
This site is almost dead now. It takes a long time to get replies so don't be in a hurry for answers.
CO

Thank you for the manual. The cap isn't vented on the tank. I need to find one that is, and I suspect the fuel line is too small also. It's the same size as I would assume stock, but even with the cap off I takes a few seconds to fill the fuel filter I added in line.

Once you get everything in the fuel system worked out, start with a new spark plug too.

Sounds to me like it could be the reverse switch on the back of the transmission.
If it's not working properly, the Engine hits a rev limiter around 1/2 throttle.

Ohhhh good one, I forgot about that and he did mention there were wiring issues.
CO

GOOD CALL I forgot all about that reverse rev limiter !

Click the link below for rev limiter search results.
search.php?keywords=reverse+rev+limiter&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sk=t&sd=d&sr=posts&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search

Hey guys, I'm back. Thank you for the replies. Home projects got in the way of the 350, but now I'm back to work on it. I just loomed up the wiring I had to fix (everything in front of the Engine), and I'm gonna look at trying to fit a new bung into the fuel tank for a bigger fuel line. I will look into the reverse switch tomorrow.

In the box of parts I have left, I have the front/rear master cylinder rebuild kit with new sight glass', a rear caliper rebuild kit, front and rear brake pads/shoes, and some J Arm bushings. I'm not sure I'm gonna use the front pads because when I got the 350, it had a bad ball joint on the upper left J arm. I replaced it with a "good used" Unit and now the wheel sits cambered in? Top of the tire leans in, bottom leans out. I can fit my finger between the right upper and shock, and there's about an 1/8th" on the left. I bought a full set of upper and lower A Arms on offer up for a rzr1000 to try and modify to fit, but they're way too long.

I'm looking up info on the reverse rev limiter at the moment, my 350 will pull start in gear. That's the only way I can start it otherwise it grinds when you try to put it in gear. I haven't noticed anything disconnected in the rear, but there is a bolt missing on the tab to the left of the transmission.

Grinding when putting it in gear usually means the idle is too high. There are a few other possibilities like too short of a belt, or the clutch isn’t fully disengaged.

The reverse limiter should be easy to test, can’t remember if you need to just unplug it or if you need to bypass it, or if you need to ground it, but trying all 3 shouldn’t take more than a few minutes. I would unplug it first and see if she bogs, then I would try to jump it with a wire, then I would try grounding it. Obviously never ground a hot wire.

Been so long since I’ve had one I can’t even remember if it’s one wire or two..lol

Whichever wire(s) would go to the switch on the transmission need to be grounded to the frame to bypass the switch.

Thanks for the info guys. If I'm not working this weekend I'll try to get the fuel system taken care of and a vented fuel cap. I'll make an appropriate thread about my progress instead of clogging up an introduction thread.

Might as well keep it here, a lot of good info for anyone else reading it.