Hey everybody. I recently picked up a (seemingly) completely stock FL350, and am completely new to the machine. I was just wondering if there is anything I should be aware of that should be addressed? And if any parts should be needed, where is the best place to source them?

I have noticed a few things, and do have some other questions...

I haven't confirmed if the E start works yet as the battery is quite dead but I've heard issues with draw before. The right brake lever(not yet sure which brake is which yet) seems to be sticking and not returning properly. When first taking off, it seems to need a pretty highish rpm before the clutch engages, is this normal? The belt has quite a bit of play, not sure if that's contributing to the take off issue. Is there a tensioner I'm missing?

Other than this the thing rips and handles well, looking forward to getting it dialed in.

Thank you all for any info, sorry for the barrage of questions!

Welcome new guy:
This site is almost ded now so you have to wait for answers or use the search box.
Lets take your questions one at a time before I give you my list.
1) E start: You need a good battery and if it don't work it needs a rebuild kit. I believe honda still has these.
2) Right brake lever: That's your front brakes. I can see the handle in the down position on the picture. You will need to rebuild your master cylinder. I believe honda still has these kits as they were used on a whole pile of their machines. Expensive.
3) Clutch not engaging until high rpm: Not sure what you consider high. It takes about 3500 rpm to kick in the clutch. It could also be that your belt is worn out. Go to the back of your machine. Look at the driven clutch shiv. If the belt is level with the top or below that shiv then it's worn out. It should stick up a bit.
4) There is no tensioner.

Ok my turn.
My list of things to check on an oddy when you are doing an Engine job or bought one

1) Fuel - your fuel pump must put out about 4.5 oz/ten seconds approx and your fuel must meet minimum octane rating in manual. I run straight avgas or you can mix it 50/50 with pump fuel.
2) Do the vent modification - use the search box above.
Vent mod threads:
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17606&hilit=vent+mod
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18016&start=25
3) Check your stock intake manifold - they're 30yrs old and crack just looking at them.
4) Check your reeds, they must seal or you could get low compression reading on your gauge. Make sure your gauge is accurate.
5) Engine must pass pressure AND vacuum test - if it doesn't don't even start it, find the leak. I use 10psi max pressure and 10in vacuum in my tests and it must hold for 10 min minimum with NO LOSS.
6) Rebuild the starter, it is a big job after the Engine is in the machine.
7) Gas tank - if it's rusty inside get it cleaned and coated at a rad shop. If you look inside with a flashlight and it looks like the pickup tubes are rusted I would tap the tank drain plug and draw fuel from there. My machines are like that now.
8) Original fuel pump and vacuum lines are junk now after 30yrs so replace them.
9) Remove the drive shafts and make sure the u joints are good and grease the splines.
10) Check the wheel bearings.
11) Over fill the transmission -- put two quarts of oil in it. It's a splash lube system and the driven shaft bearing don't get any lube unless you are driving so don't rev it in the driveway all day long
12) Adjust your brakes - I set them (F & R) so I can feel a bit of drag.
13) If doing an Engine rebuild do NOT use the paper base gasket as it blows out. Must use the metal one.
14) Must build shock savers. viewtopic.php?f=1&t=15745&hilit=shock+saver+chain
15) Replace the rear springs with 155lbs units. Stock ones are way to stiff. https://www.summitracing.com/int/search ... 0.188.0160 http://www.naake.com/store/1.88-id
16) Some good info here: viewtopic.php?f=26&t=15392&hilit=danifold
And here: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=17468
17) Jack the front of the machine up and grab the front tire top and bottom with your hands. Pull the top toward you. If there is a lot of play then that means your J arm bushings are shot.
18) While it is still jacked up grab the steering wheel and move it side to side gently. If the steering wheel turns a bit before your wheels do then it probably still has the original rod ends and they are shot. Look under the machine and if you see the rubber boots around those rod ends at the end of the steering column then most likely they are originals --- they're toast, and they are pricey.
19) DO NOT rev the pizz out your machine while it’s just sitting there. The transmission is a splash lube system so this means it gets NO LUBE unless you are moving. There are several threads on blown AB bearings in the transmission. If you blow your AB you’re done, no parts available anymore. Actually we have found a guy on facebook that still may have parts for this.
20) You can get a free pdf manual here: https://oddatv.com/fl250-fl350-factory-manuals/

You can find all this info and parts books, serial numbers, etc in this thread: viewtopic.php?f=2&t=18393

Here is how you set the pilot jet:
Pilot jetting -- in my opinion this is the most important for driveability on an oddy. They are just a pain in the azz to drive if it is constantly stumbling and not taking off from low rpm. Setting the pilot jet requires one of those small induction tach's that you can buy on Amazon cheap. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/Runleader-HM032R ... ll+engines
1) Basically you just wrap that wire around you sparkplug lead
2) Set your air screw out to 1 1/2 turns
3) Start Engine and let it warm up if possible
4) Set the Engine idle as low as you can but not so that it will stall on you
5) Turn the air screw out half a turn at a time and wait about ten seconds before you do it again. What you are looking for is the point where the Engine idle rpm does not rise anymore as you are unscrewing the air screw. If you are out more than 1 1/2 turns or less than 1 1/2 turns then you have to change your pilot jet. If your air screw is more than 1 1/2 turns out, this means you need the next size smaller pilot jet. If the air screw is less than 1 turn out, this means you need the next size larger pilot jet. Change the pilot jet and redo this test.
CAUTION: You don't want your air screw to fall right out so don't go more than 4 complete turns out. At that point you will have to change your pilot jet anyways.
CO

Edit: You do not have to do items: 2 -- 6 -- 16
CO

Edit again: sorry for the barrage of answers ----- :)
Couldn't help myself.
CO

Christ edit again: I see that some of the things in my list (2-16) are not highlighted in blue so you will have to highlight the link with your keyboard and paste it into a new tab on your browser to get there. Not sure what happened.
Anything in blue can be clicked on and it takes you right to the thread.
CO

I see that your right mirror is missing as well.
Machine does not appear to have been rolled. Need a side picture to be sure.
If your Engine suddenly "runs away" at incredible rpm like a jet Engine then you most likely have a cracked intake manifold. Air leaks are deadly to any two stroke. Trust me.
I see that it's still air cooled so the AVGAS comment is important. You have been warned.
NO octane booster don't work so give it up and save your money.
CO

Good Luck have fun.
CO

Wow! Thank you very much for that wealth of information! These things had quite a few gremlins it seems. Hopefully I didn't bite off more than I can chew!

I've never heard of AVGAS before, I'll have to look that up. Would running 93 octane with the proper mixture not be good enough? That was my plan until I read your post!

And do you recommend a specific weight or type of oil for the Engine? I know times have changed and what was originally recommended might not cut the mustard anymore.

Thank you again, I'll also do some searching if I become impatient.

Good morning:
1) I've never heard of AVGAS before:
That's short for Aviation Fuel. It's called 100LL. It means 100 octane Low Lead.
There is a long history on this site about this issue. Really don't want to get into it again.
The oddy is air cooled and the fools at Honda put the Engine behind the seat. Notice your side air scoops. Honda only built this thing for one year. Ask yourself why. Then they waited a few years and came out with a LIQUID COOLED 400cc Pilot.
I have melted many pistons and you may find the thread during any of your searches.

2) Would running 93 octane with the proper mixture not be good enough?
In my personal experience -- NO
There are guys here who get away with it but your machine must be in good shape.
Give this a thought --- You are having fun, machine runs great, your air cooled Engine purrrrs like a kitten, you are running at the dunes, you are heading UP a very steep long dune and the Engine is struggling to get to the top but you press on because you are having fun. Sooooo how is your Engine getting cooling ?
With the Engine behind the seat, air cooling and limited air flow, pump gas in the crankcase has a very elevated temperature. Now it enters the combustion chamber where it is compressed. Compressing air makes it get HOT. This is why you get detonation because pump fuel is very volatile. That melts pistons.

3) do you recommend a specific weight or type of oil for the Engine?
That depends on what you mean.
Oil for the fuel ? OR Oil for the counter balancer ?
I just run Castrol two stroke oil for the fuel and Honda HP4 for the counter balancer.

When ever I buy a new to me oddy I take it completely apart.
Looking at the picture of your machine that's my first thought.
Anyways, I don't come on here very often anymore but if I see a post I'll comment.
You have a lot of work ahead of you. Have fun.
CO

I know I commented above about your brake master cylinder needing a rebuild.
I may have jumped the gun.
You need to verify that the cable is not sticking from the brake handle to the master cylinder arm. I would check that first but this is a long shot as I've not seen one of these damaged on this site and posted.
Bleeding the brakes on an oddy is tough to say the least, especially the rears.
The master cylinder moves a pathetic amount of fluid even when it's in good shape.
CO

Edit: If you find that your starter is shot and plan to rebuild it then I would also to the vent mod. Here is the link and read it all: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=6309&hilit=no+case+modification
It's item #2 in that long list of stuff to do.
The starter blows for two reasons. #1 the brushes wear out and #2 is that Honda has a vent system for that counter balancer oil and a passage goes across the cases to the other side of the Engine where the magneto is located. It's also the same side as the ring gear and starter. As the counter balancer "vents", some of the oil migrates to that side and eventually the starter fills up with oil and contaminates the whole starter and shorts out.
Basically you plug the hole in the case on the magneto side with a screw and then use a bellows and a hose screwed into the dip stick hole. This makes it a closed loop system. You have to remove the hose and insert the dip stick to check oil level each time you want to check it and then remove the dip stick again and install the hose set up.
CO

IMO if you are going to be running at max RPM a lot, AVGAS is probably a good idea, or you can buy a liquid-cooled head for the Engine, https://oddballorv.com/ sells the stuff to liquid cool an Ody.
If it's more for trail riding, Personally, I would just run 93, although I don't have a lot of seat time on a stock 350 Engine, I have not had issues running 93 in the stock machine, But I also don't go to the dunes.
Also definitely buy some GOOD 2-stroke oil, don't buy some cheap stuff. I use Klotz R50, but any good-quality oil will work.

Also when you fill the counter balancer oil, you want to fill to the bottom of the dipstick, NOT to the normal fill line. Honda put out a service bulletin to run less oil to help prevent oil from migrating into the starter.
https://www.pilotodyssey.com/TMP2.jpg

In the reply above Lanix posted a link for you click on.
It's one of the Honda recalls or "new" updates which was sent out in 1987.
This recall notice is about reducing the oil level in the counter balancer to prevent oiling of the starter due to oil migration. I'm not interested in that part of the notice at this point.

The part I would like you to read and keep in the back of your mind is located under the heading IMPROVED PISTON KIT
Right below that heading is the comment:
"Some FL350's may experience piston holing or scuffing"
They were having issues with detonation of the fuel and that's why they were holing pistons but they didn't know why so they recalled the entire Engine and reduced the cc's hoping it would solve the problem. They also made the statement in that "Kit A" recall -- "under heavy use conditions".
Yeah push these things with pump gas and it'll detonate and "hole piston" LOL.

They actually replaced the entire Engine and reduced it to 329cc.
They also replaced the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) under "Kit A" recall. ("Kit B" is the transmission recall).
I'm not sure what they did to the CDI (Capacitor Discharge Ignition). I often wonder if they changed the timing too because of this "under heavy use piston holing may occur" LOL.

You can tell with my comments here in this thread that it cost me a lot of money to know what I know. I try to share it.
CO

Edit: What usually happened to my machines is "piston scuffing" as mentioned above in the recall. What happens is the piston always melts on the exhaust side and leaves a nice smear of liquid aluminum on the cylinder.
"Holing" is rare but can happen.
CO

Well, it seems the master cylinder is what's causing the brake lever to hang up. You weren't joking when you said they were pricey! I've seen rebuild kits for significantly cheaper, has anyone had any luck rebuilding one themselves?

Yes, they are fairly simple to rebuild. but if that piston is seized with dried-out brake fluid and corrosion they can be more difficult. I would suggest attempting to disassemble it first, if you get it apart without fuss then buy the kit. If you can get the piston to move at all then you should be able to get it out fine.

Hey fellas, I was in the process of removing the master cylinder to check it, and wouldn't you know it the brake lever is still siezed after I removed all it's connections. I'm having trouble finding relatable info or instruction on how to replace or repair. It looks like the cable is getting hung up right before the brake lever on the master

I warned ya to check that.
You will have to verify for sure the cable is sticking and that it is not the spring on the end being weak.
I would remove that cable to be sure. Then lube it.
Either way you'll have to pull the cover off the steering wheel to get inside.
Here is a thread I did when I made a longer arm for mine.
viewtopic.php?f=1&t=20571&hilit=brake

If your cable is shot then I would call Derek Leland Tisinger at 661-747-5796
PO Box 81922 Bakersfield CA 93380
Derek Leland Tisinger Kernell, CA, United States
He's got everything.

Also these would probably be hard to find for a OEM unit but Derek has LOTS of stuff and he is a great guy to deal with. I purchased transmission parts from him.

Also if you are a cheap skate like me you could most likely use a bicycle cable of the correct length and proper ends. That's what I use for my E-brake cables.
CO

Yea I'm finding anyone that has OEM replacements wants good money for them, and for good reason I suppose! I'm curious how you made your own, did you use the original spring and fittings with the new cable? Id be willing to try this but am unsure what kind of knarps and ends need to be used or if they were custom made? I'll message Derek to for good measure, thanks for your help!

viewtopic.php?f=1&t=17826&hilit=rear+brake+cable
CO