Did a complete re-work of an FL350 oddy front shock.
It was successful this time.
CO

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v6qYQXyJW-8

Nice work CO!

Nice work hope it holds up.

The details on the new seal was fuzzy to me, there is no chance the new type seal can pop out, the washer on top will help retain the new seal?

You going to field test the shock, can you rig up a jig in the lathe to simulate the shock being used on the Odyssey IE put something in the chuck of the lathe with a offset from center line of the chuck, attach the other end of the shock (no coil spring installed) to a fixed point on the lathe, then run the lathe at slow RPM compressing and extending the shock at full stroke -1/2" or what ever you feel comfortable with long as it can not bottom or over extend.

Correct.
The top washer holds the seal in.

I really like your idea on the shock "dyno".
Might have to think about that.
CO

I have just posted an update on that shock.
CO

Update #3 on that shock repair and a budget friendly solution ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ut-xNugH2iQ
CO

I think I'm going to have to look at my repaired shock again. Don't like it. So will take it apart again.

As for the budget friendly solution I think that's the answer.
As long as your seal is not completely shot and squirting out the oil I bet this will last.
I'll have to experiment with this.
Simply drill a small hole, file with oil, install a small screw with a leather seal and some sealant and good to go for the season.
CO

What do you use for replacement shock eyelet bushings? (Where the shock mounting bolt goes through)

All of my shocks had the bushings.
But I see several options here but some are not easy.

1) I would go to a suspension shop and ask if they have some used (or even new) sway bar rubber bushings. If you have a lathe then it's easy to cut it to size. If no lathe then mount it in a drill press and hold a file on it until it is the right size. No muscle on your part is required. Drill a bigger hole in the center if that's what is needed or if the center is to large then use a piece of pipe and put your bolt through it. Smaller inner diameter is better.

2) Go to a NAPA dealer to see what they got.
3) Go to a plumbing store to see what they got.
4) Go to a wrecking yard to see what they got.
5) Plastics supplier. I cut lots of bushings and things with UHMW that I get from a large industrial plastics supplier in the big city about 1.5 hour drive from my house.
I own a lathe and milling machine so it's easy for me.
CO

Front shock bushing ideas:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgy9EpMdpmA

Here is just one example from McMaster Carr
https://www.mcmaster.com/products/rubbe ... bumpers-6/
Side note: This is a weird company. They don't sell to Canadians.
CO

https://www.muirskate.com/products/ript ... hings-pack

Thank you for the video.

These are what I am using now and they seem to be a good solution. If you search 'Longboard truck cone bushings' you can take your pick of hardness. Little trimming necessary.

I have seen that done before, drill a hole, add oil, fill hole with screw using a copper washer. You can make your own copper washer or buy them in a store in the bins where they keep all the miscellaneous nuts bolts screws. I would make my own copper crush washer but I have scraps of flat copper sheet (drop offs) of varying thicknesses laying around in my scrap pile. in a pinch take a piece of say 1/4" copper tubing heat it up on the stove until it turns blue this will ensure it soft let it cool gently hammer it flat, drill a hole for the screw, using tin snips cut it to desired size.

I think this drill the hole repair is the best solution in my opinion.
Unless your seal is completely destroyed the oil fill up would probably be good for the year.

I'm having issues with my homemade shock.
The new seal head is leaking right on the shaft but I'm suspecting it's because the shaft is badly scarred up.
CO

Yeah its probably the scaring on the the shaft, wonder if the seal will wear in and self seal, like a set of piston rings. Build the shock dyno fixture give it a thousand near full strokes see what happens. Anticipate leakage and have some rags laying around to absorb and or a splash shield.

I use to have an old turret lathe that would have been good for this as it had the bathtub under it for the recirculating coolant.

Lip seals won't "wear in". They only wear out. The leak would get worse.
CO