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Thread lock on studs?

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GarlicGreg

Post subject: Thread lock on studs?

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 2:30 pm

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:04 pm
Posts: 138
Location: Gilroy CA

I just reveived my water cooled 250R cylinder back from Ed at Triple E. He removed the studs when he bored the cylinder. Who uses threadlock on the studs and who just torques them to specs. Any thoughts?

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hoser

Post subject: Re: Thread lock on studs?

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 2:54 pm

Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago

GarlicGreg wrote:

What did Ed say?

You get porting too?

I thought I read some place on the TRX you can torque them because they have a head on them like the bottom of a bolt, I don't see where blue loctite would hurt anything other than having to fight it the next time you remove them :-)

You might post here http://pilotodyssey.com/trx250r/index.php and here also http://www.macdizzy.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi

-::

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GarlicGreg

Post subject:

Posted: Sun Aug 26, 2007 3:01 pm

Joined: Sat Nov 27, 2004 7:04 pm
Posts: 138
Location: Gilroy CA

I just opened the box today so I'couldn't ask Ed and I'm putting it back together today. No porting on this one. It's for my kid and I just want to keep it stock. I guess I'll put a little thread lock on it and let Ed deal with it on the next bore. Hopefully it will be a few years from now.

Thanks Hoser.

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adnoh

Post subject:

Posted: Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:56 am

Joined: Fri Jan 12, 2007 2:17 pm
Posts: 3636
Location: Wichita ks

by chance did any of the stub hole enter the water jackets. I though that the studs had a binding taper on them thus requireing to be torgued. Sorry if I'am mistaken been a while since did rebuild on one.

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hoser

Post subject:

Posted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 7:35 pm

Joined: Mon Dec 15, 2003 2:40 pm
Posts: 22617
Location: Chicago

MacDizzy says...

Quote:

I'm not sure if there's anything about this in the shop manual (probably not)...

If you don't have a Snap-On type stud extractor/installer, you should probably jam 2 nuts together to be able to put a torque wrench on it. Tighten them to about 15-18 lb. ft. and don't use lock-tite.

On other types of engines, that use studs without a shoulder flange, only tighten them to about 10-12 lb. ft.

In either case, if you're working on them it's best to do what you have to do (replace them - whatever), but be done with what you are doing and be sure the studs are in before you have to bore the cylinder.

http://www.macdizzy.com/cgi-bin/ubb/ult ... 1;t=002187

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